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Projects 1920 T Roadster Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by -Brent-, Apr 11, 2010.

  1. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,579

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    This is going to be a sweatheart of a car.
     
  2. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member


    Thanks a lot, fellas. It is getting there, which is exciting.

    Here's todays update: A lot of heating, bending, adjusting, welding and fitting the car to my big self.

    First up was finishing the rear brake rods. Wendell put gussets made from a scrapped brake rod and zapped them in.

    (Click photos for larger images)

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    We could have run them on an angle, like an A would have. However, like mentioned somewhere previously, we chose to keep them closer to the body side/frame rails. The gussets get rid of any "stretch" that'd be allowed by ungusseted bends.
     
  3. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    A few more overall brake rod shots.

    P7240583.JPG

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    Next up, brake pedals.

    The stock A pedals needed to be changed. In stock form they'd hit the firewall and the motor mount.

    P7240527.JPG

    Above are the stock pedals. We decided to heat and bend the the pedals and the cut off the excess steel behind the pedal.

    P7240536.JPG

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    One bent, one to go.

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    Next, the foot pads need to be cut off.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2010
  4. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Once the foot pads were cut off, everything was cleaned, prepped and welded. They need to be cleaned up and will get any additional attention when the car is broken down to be finished.

    P7240549.JPG

    Measuring so that each pedal is symmetrical.

    P7240552.JPG

    Torch.

    P7240563.JPG

    This is how much we removed from each pedal.

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    Ready to be prepped for the pedals.

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    They look like they came that way.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2010
  5. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Next was tackling some of the steering issues.

    P7240522.JPG

    The stock A pitman arm needed to be modified to fit a narrower frame and changed steering angle. As well, it came close to a rivet hear as the pitman moved back toward the firewall.

    P7240523.JPG

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    The two next photos chow how we heated and moved the steering arms in the front. They were not workable after our first bend and needed some attention. Now there is plenty of clearance for everything to function appropriately.

    P7240529.JPG

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    Below you can see the angle between the pitman and steering arm.

    P7240533.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2010
  6. E HANSEN13
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 500

    E HANSEN13
    Member

    Nice i like it great job...
     
  7. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    P7240560.JPG

    Brakes?

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    Wendell's guard dogs.

    P7240526.JPG

    The new column mount that ties into the firewall. There'll also be a light-weight mount on the dash. The mount is going to get shaped up to look less conspicuous as a fabricated part.
     
  8. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that the shifter had been heated and bent and is now out of the way of my knees and the steering wheel. Also, it shouldn't be terrible for a passenger either. I can't wait to put my Lucky knob that I got from Kirk!

    Anyhow... here are some overall shots of the car. Mock-up is almost complete.

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  9. Awesome Brent! It really looks neato!
     
  10. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks, man. It's great to see it come along and to evolve into what was planned.

    When we adjusted the steering arms, it raised the ball ends up slightly. There is only about 5/8" space between the top of the rod and the frame. The plan is to notch it and put tubing in for aesthetics. The red outline shows what we're going to do.

    P7240593.JPG

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    Also, sorry for the pic quality. I've got a new camera and it's finicky, to say the least. I've got to learn how to use it... and the directions just don't cut it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2010
  11. kurtis
    Joined: Mar 13, 2009
    Posts: 2,001

    kurtis
    Member
    from Australia

    You know.....you could of left them as they were and added a new dimension to the phrase "Pedal to the metal".;)

    This is great stuff Brent. I'm really enjoying your build.
     
  12. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Hahaha, there'd be no stopping or shifting with that set-up! :D

    Thanks for the complement, it's appreciated.
     
  13. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    I like the exhaust, the mechanical brakes, the stance, the body style. Hell I like the whole damn thing.

    Not sure how I've been missing this one.
     
  14. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member


    Thanks a bunch for the compliment. Your car has become a fixture on my work computer screensaver. I'd actually love a few detail pics of how you set up your throttle pedal & linkage.

    The set of wheels I'll be running are 21" (which I think is what you're running). I just need to get them blasted so they can be painted and fitted with my tires. Unsure if I want to run them black or another color.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2010
  15. dsr_54
    Joined: Nov 24, 2008
    Posts: 278

    dsr_54
    Member

    Looks awesome Brent. Keep up the good work. I have always been a Model T fan.
     
  16. KIRK!
    Joined: Feb 20, 2002
    Posts: 12,031

    KIRK!
    Member

  17. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Too cool! I'm starting on a speedster for a client of mine right now that will end up "A" powered. Good to see what you went through to get it all mounted and in. I'll be keeping an eye on your thread from here on out.
     
  18. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks... I've come to realize that if you like hot rod Model Ts then you pretty much like Model T bodies because everything else gets upgraded. Unless you're Clayton (Mr. ModelT) who seems to pull off a HOT T without doing so.

    Know what's cooler? I got this sick Legion Lucky knob to go on it! I do want a Legion Sticker if they're ever produced... it'd completely fit in on the passenger side of the windshield.

    Thanks man! Wendell and I bounced a lot of ideas on things (like the way to mount the engine in a narrow frame) but the simplest idea always prevailed. Unfortunately, we didn't always come up with easiest idea first... luckily we were patient enough to think things through.
     
    Outback likes this.
  19. Man, that's lookin real good! T's are so solid. I totally dig the style.
     
  20. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thank you.
     
  21. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent, Looks like you are getting a lot done on your "T". Hope you are able to get it done for Bonneville. I hope to be there to check one off of my Bucket List ! Won't have the Hot Rod but I'll be there.
     
  22. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member


    The only way the car could be there would be if it were trailered. I don't see that happening. It would have been great... but there's A LOT more to do.

    I am picking it up this weekend to bring it back down to Salt Lake. I'm eager to dive into all the finish stuff but, realistically, there's no way that I'd be able to get it done... and certainly not to the standard I'd like this car to be.
     
  23. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent, You are right on about your car. Don't be hasty trying to get it done for Bonneville. Next year it will be finished and makin' them drool as you tool on by. Looking forward to the finished product.
     
  24. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    We'll have to exchange information before you head out to Bonneville, so we can meet up.

    I skipped the LA Roadsters show this year but I'm planning on going back in 2011 with a car, either this or the 26 Roadster. I think that'd be a fun place to bring the car and see what people think, as well it'd be cool to meet up with a bunch of Cali folk I've met through this car and the H.A.M.B.

    On another note, this morning I checked the Photoshop thread, where I had put in a request to see my car in a 1938 Ford color. I was certain the car would be black, but now seeing what James D. has done, man, I don't know?

    Let me know what you think!

    [​IMG]

    AND Thanks James D. You are a ruler, buddy! It is really appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 29, 2010
  25. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Oh yeah. I'd been periodically checking the Photoshop thread to see what you got, but I encountered it here first. That looks great. It would look even greater with the engine painted the same straw yellow as the wheels.

    Is that Washington Blue?

    -Dave
     
  26. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I would second the engine same color as the wheels. The blue and straw looks good, but maybe a bit tame. How about black with apple green wheels and engine block?
     
  27. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Not sure what it'd be considered in Photoshop terms but it's something close to that sample I provided on the thread, which was a washington blue color chip.

    As far as the wheels and engine being the same, I don't think I could pull that off and keep the "salt car" vibe. Too "tame" as Need Louvers termed it.

    Apple Green, I didn't know that was the name of the engine color. I do plan on putting the engine back to that stock color. As for the 21" wheels, they have no color on them yet. I'm pretty plain and would most likely go with black but "straw" is an option too. I don't think the three colors would all work together so if I go with "Straw" wheels the engine would have to be black... and if I went with "Apple" on the banger then the wheels have to be black.

    Did that green ever come on the wheels? I can't recall it.
     
  28. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    I think this is the color scheme Need Louvers is proposing:

    [​IMG]

    I don't care for it myself. It's too '60s-does-'20s for me.

    Triple black would look great on your car - especially with a tomato-red engine block. If you want to stick with the stock Model A engine block color, I'd be inclined toward a stock Model A body-and-wheels paint scheme. Black with straw wheels would look good.

    -Dave
     
  29. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    That's apple green, got it. That color doesn't fit my pre-war 1938-42 build concept. I agree it's a later build-style color, well on that car it is anyway. Anything other than black is a pretty big departure for me so suggesting bright colors is foreign... and intimidating too.

    I do like the idea of a dark blue. I'm going to look at some cars/colors of the era maybe that'll give me a better idea.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2010
  30. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Maroon with black wheels and blackwalls is an iconic late-1930s look to me. A black engine would look good in such a combination, or perhaps an off-white/cream (to better show oil leaks).

    -Dave
     

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