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Projects 1920 T Roadster Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by -Brent-, Apr 11, 2010.

  1. Strange Agent
    Joined: Sep 29, 2008
    Posts: 2,879

    Strange Agent
    Member
    from Ponder, TX

    Awesome stuff. I love T's, and I love budget builds. I'm liking what I'm seeing.

    I'd be afraid to run mechanicals, though.
     
  2. I need pics man! I love where this thing is going... I'm not giong to argue that mechanical brakes work b/c I had them & youll never not have anyone question your sanity. lol. But I don't understand the comment above about model A's only going 45mph.... my little stock banger modified would do 65-68 all day long without over heating. So in a little stripped down car such as this you should be fine. Anyways more pics!!!!
     
  3. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    The engine is in! It's only 66% though as the front mount has yet to be fabricated. The front mount will be based on a 32-34 B motor big truck. Were they considered BB trucks? Not sure.

    Anyhow, the mounts were fabbed up and based on T mounts. It's really the only way an engine is getting between those rails.

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    Below is the T pan with mounts.

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    Here's what we came up with...

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    A shot from the rear. The headlight mounts will be stock T. A different main leaf has to be made. The first main was too long, this is too short. The car would be extremely stiff had we somehow gotten the leaf in. There's not a lot of room to stretch this one out.

    [​IMG]

    The radiator will be mounted to the lower portion of the rails and also shortened to fit the T shell. It's the little things that'll make the difference.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2010
  4. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    This is pretty much the height the engine will be from the ground.

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    Closer view.

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    The split bones are now going to get "kicked-up" ala the Phil Remington streamliner. However, these will have Model A rod ends on them which will be set back to parallel so that there'll be some adjustment. Very little, but, adjustment none-the-less. Placing the ball-end in the "right" spot is an important part of the "to do" list.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2010
  5. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    [​IMG]

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    The brake mounts have been welded in. The only thing left is putting some rivet-heads in for aesthetics.

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    I had some boxing plates plasma cut for the kick-up. There'll be something put in the top end of the kick up as well. Probably over-kill but I'm a newb and it was something cool to design and also some piece of mind.

    That's it for now. Next is bones and radius rods. Then putting the body on and figuring out the clutch pedal since the T pedals were set up different area than the A's and having the engine mount like T's has added a hurdle.

    Then onto steering, another hurdle... then body mounts, brake rods, shocks (got a few cool ideas for those), etc., etc., etc. :D
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2010
    Lil'Alb and brEad like this.
  6. I want that.
     
  7. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Here's a sad shot of the front end with the headlights sitting unbolted. If you look closely you can see the steering arm against the wishbone end. Just stuff that's got to be sorted out.
     
    Lil'Alb likes this.
  8. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Oh, I almost forgot too... I got a VERY decent set of 21" A wire wheels to go with the set of black-walls I've got sitting in storage. I got the wheels yesterday at the UVU swap for $50. 2 have some cracks and need the center hubs prepped and welded. I'd like to go with a stock color (most likely paint). I want black-walls to fit the pre-war period.
     
  9. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Wow, wow, wow. Great build. I didn't realize you were this far along.

    I'm definitely bookmarking this one for future reference. I hadn't realized what a challenge getting an A engine into a T frame was gonna be.

    -Dave
     
  10. Mark H
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,461

    Mark H
    Member
    from Scotland

    I like your build ethic on this one,keep the budget down etc.Nice quality work too.Looking forward to more up dates.
    Mark.
     
  11. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks, Mark and Dave.

    The A banger certainly wasn't going in with the first set of mounts that were made (the narrowed A mounts). There's no wiggle room between the T-width rails compared to A's.

    As far as keeping the quality up, that's important to me (with everything I do) but all the welding is done by Wendell. He's got skills with welding.
     
  12. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    Dang nice build and got to hand it to you,the welding is badass.
     
  13. hotrodjeep
    Joined: Feb 3, 2009
    Posts: 867

    hotrodjeep
    Member
    from Tama, Iowa

    FYI, Your not helping my Hot Rod Regression.
    60's.......50's.........40's........30's..........20's......

    Jeff
     
  14. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    :D At least there's not much left regressing for you to do. :D

    I do get what you're saying though... I have a late 50's early sixties period Model A project... then this came along and I really started researching salt flat history, which led me to this. Then, wouldn't you know, a 1927 Roadster falls in my lap, so only naturally I need a post-war car too. I'm NOT regressing, I'm all over the place! :D
     
  15. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is fun to follow. You are going to have some of the "real old timers" thinking that this one was built back when and they saw it run somewhere in the past when it's done.
    This the way vintage style hot rod builds should be done. Pay high honors and homage to the way it was done but not be a clone of anything.
     
  16. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thank you and very well said. I've tried to explain it without success to some others. I think that's how I'll describe it now.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2010
  17. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I picked up a 33/34 Ford banjo axle at a swap meet for the drive shaft for my next project and was pleasantly surprised when seeing the attached bones. Although these aren't as heavy as the 35/36 bones I had planned on running, I like the weight and size of them.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a set of brackets I had plasma cut to match the originals. They'll get mounted up this weekend. As well, I stole the mounting piece welded to the torque tube from the swap meet axle. Everything will look stock...

    [​IMG]

    I had been on the search for headlight mounts and a HAMBer "T"Nut sent me a PM donating the set above. All that is needed is to grind off the fender brackets and pretty them up. Thanks "T"Nut, it's appreciated!

    And, here's the last thing for the day that has me scratching my head. I had a new main leaf made and told the fellas at the shop that the last shackle bushing they had used the previous main was too tight and made putting the shackle in difficult (I had to press it in). This is what I got back today. The hole is about an 1/8" too BIG. The shackle in the pic is what I gave them to use as a reference. I'm not sure what they expect me to do with that.

    [​IMG]

    I'm assuming that I can buy a set from Mac's or Snyder's but I haven't looked it up yet. I just shook my head when the fella said, "we made the bushing bigger for you" and rattled the shackle like a cow bell. :rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2010
  18. You're not going to pay for that are you?:confused:
     
  19. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    You know, these guys are usually good and I take into consideration that I bring in some things they never see or work on being that they concentrate on truck and trailer springs, etc., and I'm working on 80+ year old cars. So for this one, I gave them a pass. I ordered the bushings from Mac's for $6.

    If it were the norm with them, I'd bring my business elsewhere. I do agree that they should know better because a shackle is a shackle regardless of era but it's too easy to solve myself and keep moving on.
     
  20. Brent;
    I like your attitude and solution.
    Have enjoyed and learned from your build.:)
    Bill.
     
  21. Here's my 1921 TT framed Modified with a 27 cowl, 25 doors, custom sail panels and 1919 rear panel. It is suicided at both ends and has a rear spring hanger arrangement similiar to yours - but because it's curved doesn't need to be 25mm thick.

    Engine is a 347 Pontiac from a 1957 GMC truck. Not so many authentic parts - but this is the UK and I'm lucky that I can find anything....

    I decided to fit a Fordson Major petrol tank and because I needed to get it lower in relation to the body I cut the hump off the rear cross member.

    [​IMG]

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  22. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Here's a little project for the day... nothing major. I cut off the fender brackets (donated by "T"Nut) and smoothed out the mounts. Although they'll go to the blasters with the rest of the stuff I wanted to shape them up so that they didn't look like I just lopped them off with the cutting wheel.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2010
  23. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,629

    The37Kid
    Member

    Nice work, glad I checked in the see how things are moving along.
     
  24. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent, This thread has me all inspired on my T framed/"A" powered /fron half/Dodge(narrowed to fit one) touring with "A" mechanical brakes . . . Don't know where I can find all the pieces for "A" mechanical brakes ?
     
  25. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Love what your doing. Maybe next year we can meet in Pomone on Fathersday. I hope to be there next month. I have one more header to finish. Not sure if I like them enough to chrome them though.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member


    Thanks for the kind words, fellas. Dave, send me a PM with what you're looking for. I may be able to get you everything from a 28/29 coupe.

    Steel Rebel, I'd love to get back to the Roadster Show in 2011. We'll have to coordinate something, for sure.
     
  27. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    More progress.

    Wendell and I discussed what we liked best for front mounts. Simplicity and function won out over fancy (or even welded) mounts. I've got to tell you I am pleased with how simplicity and function allowed for a very cool-looking set of mounts that fit right in with the era. Plus, this engine went from being something that was going to be difficult to drop in between the rails to a simple 4-6 bolt drop in / pull out. Easy-cheesy, I like that. :D

    [​IMG]

    This is a NOS mount from a B model truck (32-34). I am not sure how this mount was connected to the frame in it's original intention.

    [​IMG]

    Wendell bent a wire as a pattern we bent the steel to match. It took a couple times of fitting and making the two match. Here's the first one, close to the desired shape and the beginning of the other.

    [​IMG]

    Test fit.

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    Ready to mock (after they cool).

    [​IMG]

    Sitting in place, now they've got to be drilled.

    [​IMG]

    Drilled with bolts setting in place (mocked only) and edges cleaned up softened.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  28. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Next is the front bones. I took a page out of Brian Bass's book on this one. I always admired the set-up on his car.

    Wendell made a bung in the lathe to fit the threaded Model A rod end. Then the end was welded to the inside of the bung and tapped into place into the end of the bone. Then, the welder that he is... he welded it up nice and neat and the finished product is below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had originally measured and planned for straight (unbent) bones but at some point it looked like they needed to be cut which is why there's welds 1/3 from the back. We were going to kick it up like Phil Remington's car but it was not needed. My front mount and spring mods were enough to allow straight bones. (I had actually planned right the first time, hahaha :D) These things happen.

    [​IMG]

    Here's what it'll look like installed.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a veiw from the inside. Obviously no prep or weld has happened at this point. This is actually a pretty tight area and for finish welding the engine will have to be pulled. It's cleaned up and tacked (1/2 welded actually) but no pics of that area... I'll snap some Sunday.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Passenger side.

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    There's more to come but I'm going on a day trip with the wife. I'll post more tonight.
     
  29. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Here's the teaser I gave the Hot Rod Model T Group guys... :D

    [​IMG]
     
  30. Looks great Brent!
     

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