MAYDAY MAYDAY Banger Meet in is progress...

Can you turn it over by hand? I'm starting an "A" engine with 8 to 1 compression with a 6 volt starter, I attached my ground cable to the trans. This is a fresh tight engine with a 20 lb. Al flywheel. All connections must be clean and tight. I see post's about towing to start, I was taught that if you have to tow it something is not right. Once you get it running spend some time getting it tuned right. After my engine has been started it will fire on first revolution. This is why I like the fine tuning capabilities of Winfield carburetors, I'm running a "reworked" "B" distributor with stock points. Over the years I have found most problems with 6 volt systems is bad connections if starter and generator are in good condition. I installed a Fun Co. electronic regulator. They make them in 6,8, and 12 volt all for the "A" 3 brush generator.
On ebay yesterday I saw a new "A "B" style FS distributor advertised for $450 from FS. Just a bit pricey for me.

 

Hmmmm...I'll have to try my Merc caps on the back of my A. I know they stick out more than Fords, but by how much I do not know!

 

I think I can smell the paint! Who made the headers? I like the stance of your coupe. Did you use a stock "T" spring on the rear?

 

The motor was running perfect and starting every time before I installed the head, intake and exhaust...I know the intake and exhaust would have nothing to do with the starter. I changed nothing internally on the engine. It was rebuilt about 600 miles ago and works like a champ. The cables are big and grounds are clean and uncorroded. Thanks for the responses...

 

I never thought of the cap issue with steels and 'A' spindles.

I've just gone over to steels as most of you have seen by now and was thinking of '40 caps.

A Gaz lump is basically a 'B' I think?

Forgot about all that stuff regarding the ignition.

What was involved with doing that?
I see its not an 'A' horn button thats used.

Are you using a mag? What one are you using to fire both sets of plugs at the same time?

Dan McEachern does new gears for the Bosch side drives.

 

The header is a Red's header, fit like crap! I did use a stock T spring, with one leaf removed. I may put that leaf in it, and have the eye reversed, to stiffen it up a bit but still have the same lowering effect. It is pretty spungy right now (but I do not have shocks yet either!)

 

[/QUOTE]What was involved with doing that?
I see its not an 'A' horn button thats used.








To get the wheel to fit, I had to do the following:

-machine the end of the shaft down on a lathe, as a "A" shaft is a little larger diameter than later Ford. I just kept "skimmin" it until it fit good and tight

-The 37 banjo wheel I used has a "skirt" around the bottom of it, and so in effect it sit closer to the colum tube than an A. Rather than cut the skirt off the wheel, I cut 1/2" off the bottom of the colum and lowered it down a little for clearance. The spark and throttle rods still work great.

- Shorten the light rod. pretty basic, I first measured how far the stock rod stuck out with the stock wheel, then installed the banjo, installed the rodand cut it so it stuck out the same amount. Had to cut a section out and re-weld the bottom on, so the stock light switch works. To my ammazment everything works

 

Are you using a mag? What one are you using to fire both sets of plugs at the same time?

Dan McEachern does new gears for the Bosch side drives.[/quote]

Yes it is set up for a mag, but it was only firing one set of plugs. A dual mag set up is in the works. I've found a couple of Aircraft mag options. I havent worked out all of the logistics yet. looking for an impulse drive that will make it start easier with the hand crank. My other thought was to stager the timing between mags. so that one runs more advance then the other and set up a switch to control each mag so that I could turn off the advanced mag for starting. I would set up the starting mag with adjustable timing and it could be adjusted for the power range you need once both mags are switched on. I'll post more when I get it done.

I haden't talked to Dan yet, thanks for the tip!!!! I hope he has the head gasket for the Rojo head too.

 

Daddyo...any trim shop should be able to make a tonneau cover, there isn't much to them. Wouldn't have thought it would cost much either.

 

I will second the Red's header and the crappy quality of it. I had Bass Tig weld up the flange on the outside so it would look better. I did that before trying the fit. I wish I had just sent it back to them and said it was JUNK!

The flange visually appears warped, but it's just cut crooked. The header won't fit on the motor without hitting the frame, so the pipes will have to be bent. It was so much work that I'm just running the stock exhaust manifold on it right now until I can get some time to focus on that.

 

I've got a Red's header and that was poor as well. The flange was very distorted. Welded it up from the outside and then had the flange faced.

 

Finished updating my Zipper lakester with new steering wheel and replaced the Mooneyes EFI with one of the British 97's. Also reworked the stock A pedals, replaced the powered coated red fuel tank with a spun aluminum and put some spun aluminum Raydot Cobra side mirrors to tie everthing together.

 

Banger in the water do I suck at taking pictures

 

Can you turn it over by hand with the plugs out? Does it just crank slowly or not at all? Did you retime with the timing plug? What diameter are your valves? most of the repop Al heads won't clear larger valves than 13/4".

 

That is one mighty handsome Tudor you got there, John

 

My Red header was a bad, bad fit. How bad? I bought another header and use Red's for an engine I keep on a stand. There was severe frame interference in a Model A ! Amazing.......!

 

I have had minor problems with Red's headers but have never had a frame interference problem. I wonder if the business changing ownership has anything to do with it. When I was working on the Denver Miller Red built me a set of headers with 1 3/4" tubes on a header plate I had cut to fit the core shift and out of aligned ports for $185, I thought this was pretty reasonable as one guy quoted 8 or 9 hundred. As to welding on the tubes on the outside of the header plate I always do this so that I can match the ports and not worry about the weld. I started doing this before they started with the heavy bead on the block side.

 

Red sold the place about a year & a half ago - he stayed on for a while, but have heard many stories about QC & Svc going downhill. I wasn't really very happy with the dual exhaust for my '40 either - had to do a lot of cutting & rewelding to get it to fit properly.

 

Here's what I spent my allowance on this month:

 

I am really impressed with the quality of this body and the level of service from Brookville, and I am thankful that they work so hard for our hobby. This is a '30-31 extended cab roadster pickup body, I supplied the gas tank and they built the cowl around it. Stock firewall with stock holes, no outside door handles or snap hole for curtains, and I opted for the deck former option.

I think they did a fantastic job extending this body, the proportions are so nice that it looks like Henry could have made it this way. I am 6' 2" and 215 lbs and didn't think I could be comfortable in a stock length roadster pickup. I would estimate the body with tank installed at around 250 lbs. It is easy for two guys to carry, just a little awkward due to the size. Hopefully my mild B engine will feel strong if I can keep the weight down around 1600 lbs.

Will Kimble

 

Did you make your own floor boards?

 

Nope, that is how it came. They also supplied the blocks that go between the body and frame.

Will Kimble

 

That's a real nice body, Will. I think that's the first time I've seen one of the extended '30-'31's and you are right, the proportions are spot on.

 

Ha, a year's worth of allowance - I just spent it this month! Don't tell my wife about the B engine...

I thought some folks would enjoy seeing the pictures, I know I was looking for more while I was saving up for this.

Will Kimble

 

The reason I asked about the floor boards is that I couldn't tell it the throttle relief was cut on bottom side of the upper board. I made my own floorboards as I am using the F 100 trans and I felt I would have to butcher the stock new boards. After I thought I was done I came across a set of floor board prints on the internet and found the reason my stock throttle didn't stick up high enough was that there is a 3/8" relief cut on the underside of the board where the throttle sticks through.
I wish I had that leg room, I'm thinking maybe I should sell what I have and buy one!

 

That't rally great Will! Looks great!
I have to look at my 29 roadster body,...it seemed that last I looked, the original 29 gas tank was not fitting properly?? I have to look more closely,..anyon ever have any issues with Brookville bodies not fitting the original Ford cowl gas tanks well??

Just wonderin,...
Well I gotta take a nap,...I just had two BIG Rob Roys!!! Sleepy sleepy!!

 

I just put one on mine, fit nice and tucked right down where it is supposed to. The people there were SUPER helpful and they knew what I needed. Not the best looking header, but it was also not very much money either! Also got a high compression head, gaskets, intake, and side plate from them...all mint.

 

Been a good month for me, put about 520 miles on the 'A' since fitting the twin uppies, they seem to be settling in well.

Still thinking about a Lion head, but no rush.

Exhaust, is my next 'hot' must have - saw this at wheels day, any ideas, can I get a flange plate? or is it a scratch build? It's kinda what I have in mind, but will take some working out with the uppies and the hot plate on the intake manifold (but nothing compared to what some of you guys are upto).

 

Corn Coupe, Monkeybiker on here did have some flanges made up a little while ago but I don't know whether he has any left. (I'm hoping he's still holding on to one for me!) Send him a PM in case he doesn't see this post.
As for a head, don't you think a 'stock' shaped head would look better with the uppies, rather than the finned Lion head? You can get a Brumfield head in various CR's that look totally stock, a Snyder head also looks pretty stock, or an aluminium Winfield head if you want to look flash!
That's Clive Griesel's roadster, one of the original Low Flyers from England, btw....