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HA/GR in Minnesota

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by bobw, Jan 14, 2009.

  1. Old Jimmy Six
    Joined: May 24, 2011
    Posts: 41

    Old Jimmy Six
    Member

    The lower the horsepower the higher the stall, because it takes horsepower to stalll the converter, 4500 stall convertor that might stall at 4500 on a 500hp V-8 will stall the 6 cyl. at 3200 because the 200hp 6-cyl simply can't produce anymore HP. Also the Chrysler 6 will go into the stratosphere in rpm where all the others can't, so going lower gear ratio ( numerically higher) will help in the flash of the convertor.
     
  2. listen to OLD JIMMY SIX he's on the right track the guys running a c4 could try a c3 torque converter the bigger fords have more torque.
     
  3. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Made some tough decisions today. First, I have a slush box in the car so it isn't a legal HA/GR. Second, my slant 6 is quite mild. So I ordered a not very expensive converter that will stall at 2,000. I'll wring as much performance out of this combination as I can.
    If I have a greater need for speed, out goes the slant and in goes a 300 Ford 6 I have laying in my stack o' engines. The slant and converter are mild enough to use in a street car and could find their way into a T Bucket down the road.
     
  4. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Ya Bob, your a racer and you might as well get started on that 300 Ford so it will be ready this summer. In the mean time you have a great ride, pulled with a cool pickup on your home made old school trailer to have fun with.;)

    It's all about making passes and having fun with friends.:D
     
  5. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    For two days now I've had this TransGo manual shift kit setting by the trans. It still hasn't installed itself. The instructions state only an experienced trans technician should install it. Well, I'll be experienced by the time I'm done. Sure hope it works...
     
  6. Have you checked on a full manual Cheetah valve body?
     
  7. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Putting the manual shift kit in wasn't all that difficult. Lots of steps though. Had to take one part to a machinist friend to have a couple diameters ground smaller. Sure hope it works.

    The converter is a bit late so I'm gonna shift to rebuilding a couple Carter BBD 2 barrels while I wait.

    The pic isn't very interesting but progress is being made.
     
  8. P-Dog
    Joined: Mar 12, 2009
    Posts: 43

    P-Dog
    Member

    Looks much better than the original "PC" earth tone trans you started with, I'll bet it works just fine too.

    What part needed to be ground?
    I would think Transgo would supply the part, not everyone has a friend in machining but it sure does help.

    Good luck, let us know how it works for you,
    P-Dog.....
     
  9. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Bob, it's all the small stuff that has to be done and modified to make one of these HAMBster's run the way we want. Our we looking at 2X2's or 3x2's this time around?:rolleyes:

    Got the head off the 194 motor and pulled the cam. I think I have an idea what went wrong, will know more tomorrow.
     
  10. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Right, Tom. Even though this was a running car a couple years ago, lots of changes have been made. I figure 2 2bbls is enough as they came off 318 engines. Right around 500cfm for the pair according to my internet research.

    P-Dog, the instructions call for grinding a smaller diameter on one land and reducing the land width. This is on one of the shuttle valves. The instructions didn't say it but I think hand grinding would have been acceptable. Since I have a machinist friend a little extra precision couldn't hurt.

    I need to find a country acquaintance with a long driveway so I can test run the car without paying 80 bucks for Test and Tune. Hate to spend that money and find out there is a major problem. Would be an expensive half-run, eh?
     
  11. P-Dog
    Joined: Mar 12, 2009
    Posts: 43

    P-Dog
    Member

    Bob,

    Thanks for that one, I was a little confused about what needed grinding.
    After spending 45 years in a machine shop I have to learn how to make do without all the fancy machines and it is a bit of a struggle at times <sigh>
    Always good to have a machinist friend who is willing to work for cheeseburgers as I did :!))

    P-Dog.......
     
  12. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Bob, 500 CFM from two 2bl carbs sounds real good and not so hard to tune as 3 or 5 94's. I know it would be easyer to run one 4bl on my Offy intake, but I love the look of multi carbs.;)
     
  13. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Picked up my torque converter today. I prefer to think of it as a fluid clutch. And, since I converted the trans to full manual, what I have is a clutchless stick shift.:D
    There's nothing to prevent me from putting the dragster back together. Except the project next to it.
    It should be running in a few weeks. Yipee!!!
     
  14. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Bob, that is great news. We all look forward to seeing a few pictures of the new look car when it is ready.:)

    I sure would like to hear it run with the headers, 2 carbs & head work you did. Maybe you can get a buddy to shoot a video.;)
     
  15. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Yes, I'm hoping the slant runs strong and sounds good. One of my grandsons is a pretty good videographer. He'll do a video for me.

    I've decided if the slantie doesn't satisfy the "need for speed" that rather than throw cubic dollars at it I might as well start with more cubic inches. The pic is part of my "pile 'o engines". On this end of the pile are two 292 Chevys and a 300 Blue oval. Yes, another step away from HA/GR but the torqueflite kinda butchered that anyway.
     
  16. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Ya Bob, that is a nice pile of big inch L6 motors. I just delivered one of those 300 inch Fords to (ThingyM) a few weeks ago. Right now it looks like most of the SDRA cars out west are going to be 300 inch motors or more.:eek:

    I may have to change plans down the road as my little 194 is going to be afraid to come out and play with the big boys.:eek: They still have to hook them up.:D

    We wish your grandson good shooting and max out the sound.:)
     
  17. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Okay. No more construction. No more modifications. It's time to put this thing back together. Starting tomorrow.
     
  18. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Right on Bob, get that HA/GRa (SDRA) dragster on the track and see if 12.40's are in the tank. Looking forward to first pass.;)
     
  19. hoffbug
    Joined: May 6, 2008
    Posts: 48

    hoffbug
    Member

    Hey Bob.. The Rock has a $40 All car club day on May 12.... Im trying to get the Chevelle back together by then but work is conspiring against me...Im going to be there either way unless its raining...

    http://www.rockfallsraceway.com/allcar.shtml
     
  20. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Nice to hear from you, hoffbug. I won't be ready by next Saturday. I did get the engine and trans installed this week, along with a lot of the other parts. Ordered a set of very light distributor advance springs. Trying to keep the advance under control for starting purposes but reach full advance very quickly, like under 2,000 rpm.

    I could bring the Crosley. Hmmm.
     
  21. P-Dog
    Joined: Mar 12, 2009
    Posts: 43

    P-Dog
    Member

    bobw,

    Have you tried running the dizzy with no springs or one spring?
    I've done both back in the day :~))

    P-Dog....
     
  22. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Little by little I'm getting the pig back together. Seems like half the bolts don't fit or are missing. Taking much longer than it should. Spent a half hour cleaning a valve cover only to find a lot of grit under the baffles where I can't reach. I'll have to cut them out, clean it and weld 'em back in.

    Yes P-Dog, I thought about using one very weak spring. My stock distributor has one normal looking spring and one beast of the spring. The big one is very loose and doesn't come into play until the weights are 3/4 of the way to the stop.

    I'm gonna weld the slots up a bit to limit mechanical advance to around 22 crank degrees. The rest will be initial. I under the slanties like around 30 degrees total.
     
  23. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Ya Bob, I have the same problem, even if I put all the bolts and parts in a labeled container. For some reason they are not all there when the car is going back together.:rolleyes:

    Your car is starting to look like a race car again. I see you have laid down the radiator this time around, looks cool. I like the copper tube and fittings look, used them on the 29 RPU.

    Got my replacement cam & lifters along with new aluminum timing gear together and installed today, maybe have the motor done this week.;)
     
  24. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    Looking good and I agree the radiator is slick:cool:. I was cosidering doing the copper tube and soldered joint. I was also thinking about brazing the breather tubes in valve cover. I have a Smokey Yunick book and he did that. Keep up the good work
     
  25. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Hey, you slant six guys...Anybody know if there is a small diameter oil filter that fits?
     
  26. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    Try this web site to cross reference.http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/. It will give you all the sizes,filter thread and micron value. You don't have to use the Baldwin filter but you can get a number to go by.
     
  27. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    A B34 baldwin filter is the short version.It is 3 7/8 long and is 1 17/32 shorter than the long B2 filter wich is 5 13/32 long I hope this helps.
     
  28. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Shorter, yes. Narrower, I don't know.
     
  29. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    The B243 is 11/16 smaller in diameter and 4 27/32 long verses 5 13/32 long with the same thread 3/4-16. I hope this helps
     
  30. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    If you have a severe clearance problem, can you get a remote adapter? Didn't you already have the slant in the car before? If it fit before, what is causing the problem now? Inquiring minds want to know. :p
     

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