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Suspension settle for a straight axle?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NeedFiber, May 4, 2012.

  1. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    Just trying to ball park my ride height....how much on average should a Speedway 4" drop axle with multi leaf spring be expected to settle with a 630 engine installed? Pretty light otherwise, no fenders or hood. This is a 30 A Tudor. Will it settle down further after a few hundred miles like coils springs?
    Thanks,
    Dave
     
  2. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member

    I gotta ask... a 630 what type of engine?
     
  3. shmoozo
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 671

    shmoozo
    Member
    from Media, PA

    I'm guessing pounds ...
     
  4. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,273

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just one little thing, a dropped I beam or a dropped tube axle are exactly that, if not dropped then they are just I beam's or tube axles.
    A straight axle is exactly that, straight from one king pin to the other dead straight, no kinks bends or drop's.

    Doc.
     

  5. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    Yes yes yes....late night lexdyslic typing.....630 lbs, new Speedway drop I-beam front end. I'm asking with the frame and body sitting tall how much should I expect the front end to drop with the engine installed.
    Doah!
     
  6. Depending on the spring, but if it is a stock model A, it will drop about 1 1/2 inches.
     
  7. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    Does this help? Sorry, bought the frame with the front end on it. Its never had an engine installed in it. This if my first solid axle car...

    [​IMG]
     
  8. from the looks of the picture, I would say that it will settle about 2-2 1/2 inches.
     
  9. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    I hope your right...its sitting very high up and the rear will end up being lower than the front if it doesn't. The frame and suspension was bought as a unit by the PO from the Rod Store..now out of business. I've not looked hard but are there different spring rates available? But being my engine is at 630 lbs I would already be looking for a big block spring. I might see if it can be dissembled and a leaf taken out.
     
  10. Xdrag48
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 474

    Xdrag48
    Member

    That front tire looks a little big to me,might just be the photo. Do you have a side photo? Are these the tires you are going to use? Using the right tires will also help the way it sits ...

    Steve
     
  11. Not to be a smartass, but is there any weight on the suspension right now? I see a bunch of jackstands, and the front wheel. look to be on taller wooden blocks than the back wheels. Is there a reason you aren't loading the suspension? From this pic it seems the motor mounts are in place, the spring is bolted up, wishbones installed... so why not pull the blocks and let it set where gravity pulls it? Much easier to judge.

    And while you're posting pictures, what's up with that roof?
     
  12. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    I see what look likes a panhard bar running over the top of your steering, and under the spring........ that aint gona work.

    Until you get the motor mounted and it setting on the ground..... everything is a guess. More than likely a wrong guess.
     
  13. Before you get to far ahead of yourself, it looks like the engine is way to far forward. The radiator mount holes look like they are in line with the balancer. You need room for the pulleys and a fan behind the radiator. Dont try to set ride hieght untill you've got the drive train in. On my 29 roadster, it settled about 1 inch after 4 or 500 miles. Same setup, 4" dropped Super Bell axle with a posies spring. SBC with TH350 and I removed one leaf from the spring ( the top one ) . I'm using a 6" balancer to gain some clearence, I've got about 2 - 2 1/2 inches between the balancer and the drag link. Full fendered, here's how it sits.
    Again, get the drive train in, radiator mounted and then start to figure out your ride hieght and spring rates and number of leaves etc. etc. Another words, put it together and take it apart a few times till it looks right. That's the best advice I can give you.
     

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  14. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,025

    19Fordy
    Member

    My 4 inch dropped Magnum axle lowered the car 2 inches without changing the spring.
     
  15. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr........Rrrrrrrrrrraaaa...I cant say that word.....:rolleyes::D
     
  16. rrthiv
    Joined: May 3, 2011
    Posts: 84

    rrthiv
    Member
    from S.E.Ohio

    Nice roadster oldschool...
     
  17. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    The old rule of thumb was estimate ride height by mounting front end using only the main leaf of the spring... not with the motor installed of course.
    You can still remove a leaf or two if you're not happy with the ride height after car is complete . Keep the main and second leaf, remove odd numbered leaves 3-5-7-9-etc. You'll probably have to do this several times to get the best ride possible, but it sure does do the trick.
     
  18. exactly what I was afraid of.... :(


     

  19. Thanks rrthiv. Built this in the last few years, I'm now 64 so I figured what the hell, you only live once. I'll never be without a hot rod again. I took a little break from building cars in 1996, good to be back.
     
  20. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    The roof? PO...not my doing. I'm looking for the windshield header sheet metal to use as a guide to chop the filler back to OE and then hang a visor on it as GOD and Henry intended :). I'm going for an early 's drag look. Since its bar front and rear already, American Salts, cheaters rear skinnys front, black side pipes. So the front tires will go, the engine is on stands...I was test fitting this beasty. The mounts you see are the PO's chevy mounts which are getting hacked off this week. The engine is a 66 Chrysler Polysphere 318 with factory 4 bbl. She'll be built to about 340 HP. Its as long as a 440 and a little bit wider. I'm using 66 Charger electroluminescent gauges, 727 auto with the Chargers tunnel/good looking shifter mechanism, 34 chevy master grill/shell, 682J headlights for now (piecing together 37 Chrysler headlights for the ultra missile look). The engine will go back a little more...currently the lower pulley is behind the crossmember a tad. I had to put the front on blocks to fit the engine hoist legs under the axle...what a PITA. Got a 64" wide 91 Merc posi 8.8 sitting ready for new brackets...gonna try and triangle the top link bars and use the cast in ears. Goal = speedweek this Aug at Bonneville...spectator of course.
    Mutt yes...rat rod no.
     
  21. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    that should read "early 60's drag car" and "4 bar front end"....stupid num locks...
     
  22. NeedFiber
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 121

    NeedFiber
    Member

    side shot....[​IMG]
     
  23. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Good to hear that roof is not permanent...Ugh.
     

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