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Jag Jaguar IRS into a 46' International Harvester

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by IRON MAIDEN, Feb 2, 2011.

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  1. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    What's the gear ratio in that diff?
     
  2. Packrider
    Joined: May 1, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Packrider
    Member

    3.31 if my calculations are right.
     
  3. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    That's not bad. The one I have is 2.82 It's why I'm not using it yet. I'm gonna hang onto it and when I come across either an XJ12 3.55 gear set or just get it re geared.... I will put it in then.
     
  4. Here are acouple more photos now that we're a little further...

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    Last edited: Jul 25, 2012
  6. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 580

    inthweedz
    Member

    I mounted a jag rear in my buddies 327 powered 39 plymouth coop.. I took out the springs both sides and made a steel spacer bar to bolt in between the top and bottom shock mounts to hold the drive shafts (half shafts) parallel with the ground.. We set the frame onto the suspension unit and welded the jag cage in to the chassis (after repairing cracks in the cage) with a pinion angle of approx 3-5 degrees. This way we could see where the front arm mounts had to be located.. It rides like a dream.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2012
  7. Thanks for the pics.
     
  8. dude that grille change is killer! great pic's of the jag rear swap.
     
  9. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,005

    koolkemp
    Member


    X2 for sure!!!
     
  10. Thanks....

    The rear frame section finished.

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    BTW Car Quest has rotors, calipers (with no core charge) and pads for under 300 bucks...
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  11. Swwet. It look like its coming along nicely
     
  12. captain scarlet
    Joined: Jun 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,429

    captain scarlet
    Member
    from Detroit

    Nice looking job there sir
     
  13. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    I noticed you relief'd the outside of the frame above the axles. Was the Hub Carrier hitting the frame?
     
  14. The notches we used were from a coil sprung frame. They pionted out at the rear of the frame, so we cut them to straighten them out to pinch the new back section a bit....
     
  15. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Pinion angle is what is holding me up. The XJ rear is set up with no angle. If you raise the pinion to say 3-5 degrees, then the LCA's are also angled. The wheels will move rearward with the suspension. What I have found is that the XKE model Jag and the 3.8S Jag is setup a little different. The differential side brackets that hold the LCA's to the differential and angled, unlike the XJ side brackets that are not. The XKE side brackets are angled 6 degrees and the 3.8S brackets are 3 degrees.
    So say with the 3.8S brackets installed, you can have your pinion set to 3 degrees but your LCA's will remain level. To me, this is the answer if I can actually locate a set.
     
  16. Pinion up and more "Caster" at the hub will benefit you by increasing the anti-squat.
     
  17. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Thanks for chiming in. So I should go ahead and raise the pinion up 3 degrees and be good with the LCA tilted back with positive caster? I thought the Jag XJ suspension came from the factory with no caster?
    If it's ok..... sure makes the install a whole lot easier!!!
     
  18. Check this out: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=36015

    Caster on the rear is almost irrelevant as it's not a steering wheel. (it can be however) In the case of the Jag, there isn't much to the geometry so you may as well take advantage what few things you can change. More anti-squat is a good thing in this case.
     
  19. Darel
    Joined: Aug 6, 2012
    Posts: 5

    Darel
    Member

    Holy crap, finally something I can chime in on without being totally out of my league around here!

    'Cause I'm a Jag guy and I have a couple of XJ-Ss.

    I can't help you on the custom fab stuff but I might be able to clarify a couple things:

    Jag used BOTH a Salisbury and a Dana 44. The D44 was used 82-84 but the cutoff dates go by serial number. The two rears are nearly identical. The tipoff will be the brake caliper mounting bolts on a Dana rear have the heads pointing towards the outside, the Salisbury has the caliper mount bolts pointing in towards the diff.

    The Dana rears have an access hole in the rotor to get to these bolts. The Salisbury rears have no access hole, BUT, all aftermarket replacement rotors have the holes since the rotors are identical in every other way, so you can't use that for ID since the rotors were probably replaced at some point. The Salisbury rears are generally regarded as being a bit stronger, but again, they're pretty much identical so there's no real strong argument one way or the other.

    ALWAYS replace the calipers and rotors before you put the rear in the car because it's nearly impossible after!

    All sedans had open diffs. All XJ-Ss had limited slips, Posi-Tracs I believe. All XJ-Ss had 2.82 or a slightly lower but equally pathetic gear ratio (they can do 160 but it takes a week to get there). No idea on the sedan variants.

    When you set up pinion angles if you're using a normal single-u-joint shaft you should have the pinion angle equal to the tranny output angle. If you're using a double cardan (CV) all your angle should be taken up by the double-jointed end and your pinion angle and driveshaft should be in a straight line. On a solid axle setup the pinion should be about 1 degree down from the driveshaft to compensate for axle wrap.

    I'm loving this thread because I want to build a T-bucket out of my XJ-S parts car, IRS, IFS and V12. Still can't wait to see how you guys work the IFS into things, that's going to be WAY more complicated than sticking the cage in there.

    D
     
  20. Wondering if anyone has redrilled the Jag for other patterns? (Say 5on5)

    Great info.....Thanks!
     
  21. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  22. Just do a search on this site for XJ6 Jag or similar.
    There are dozens of threads covering every aspect
    of front and rear use in a lot of different cars and trucks.
     
  23. We're back on the road. Now I know why so many people use these rear ends, the difference from a live axle to an IRS is unbelievable on the highway.....

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  24. Looking gooder
     
  25. Mike Moreau
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 291

    Mike Moreau
    Member

    Cafone, thanks for intersting and informative thread. Your thread has consolidated a lot of great information in one place. Also happy to read that your "on the road". One safety issue that you may wish to consider: The vertical front of your gas tank is in close proximity to two nuts/bolts and that angle bracket on the Jag rear end. A hard hit from the rear could cause the bolts/bracket to "can opener" the gas tank (ala Pinto fires in the early 70s). A study piece of rubber (conveyor belt material ?), plastic or even an additional piece of sheet metal between the gas tank and rear end would be easy and cheap insurance.
     
  26. The tank is above the bolts, I think if someone hits me hard enough in the rear to push the back of the frame into the tank I'll have bigger problems than catching on fire.

    This is not my thread, I just put a IRS in an International...
     
  27. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    I started it. cafone was kind enough to include his install in it. I'm prepping to install mine now. I started the thread a while back and then decided to just use an Explorer 8.8 I had. The cost to change the gears in the Jag rear I have had me leaning away from using it. Recently, I decided to screw it and install it. I'll worry about the rebuild and re-gear later. Looks good cafone. You getting any wheel hop or anything?
     
  28. No wheel hop at all. It just squats and goes. We set the frame up so the truck drags ass and also cut 14 inches out of the wheel base, giving us more weight in the rear than before. The frame is more ridged now that the rails are tied together in the rear, we can put a floor jack under any part of the frame and lift either end of the truck streight off the ground.

    I weighed it the other day, the truck weighs 2840 pounds, the front is 1640 pounds and the rear is 1200. Not quite the 50/50 weight distribution we were hoping for but it's better than most old farm trucks.......we're taking it to the drag strip this weekend, so we'll see what happens when the tires can get some grip.

    The 331 gears are perfect, I think because the built 400 starts making torque at around 1800 RPM and pulls to over 5 grand. We had 410's in the old rear, that was too much gear and it would do a burn out from any speed at about half peddle....I'm sure the posi in the Jag rear and fresh tires also helped.

    The ride quality over bumps is the amazing part. Even with the rear solid mounted in the chassis, it's so much smoother and the truck doesn't bounce around like the live axel did...

    It's cool you decided to use yours. If you rubber mount the cage it should have a really nice ride. I'm not sold on the spring sliders for the street, IMO they are more for on the dirt. That's why I've only seen them used on Street Stock dirt track cars and 4 wheelers.
     
  29. czuch
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 2,688

    czuch
    Member
    from vail az

    Man I got alot out of this. You guys demystified gobs of mysteries.
    I have a donor 88 XJ-6 and want to put the guts in my 61 Galaxie.
     
  30. Packrider
    Joined: May 1, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Packrider
    Member

    Finally!
    Come to the dark side. You won't regret it. It is so nice in there. Don't know how it rides yet. Soon maybe.

     
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