I've read the handful of threads about this cam and it seams that every manufacturer has different specs. I guess it REALLY doesnt matter but does anyone know of a current supplier with the correct specs on their grind? I've heard stories of how kick ass they sounded and for the application it would make me feel better knowing I have the correct grind. Also, were gear drives common back in they day? I think it would be a cool combo with the solid lifters.
Stolen from cyberspace. For the Comp hydraulic 30-30 : advertised duration: 286 intake/293 exhaust, duration @ .050 : 239 /246 , lift : .483" /.477" , lobe center: 112 degrees. For the Comp cams solid lifter reproduction Duntov 30-30, P/N 12-673-4, specs are: advertised duration: 284 intake/291 exhaust, duration @ .050 : 247 /254 , lift : .504" / .498", lash: .012" lobe center: 112 degrees
my father in law put a 30 30 cam in his 32 sedan, it had a real mean idle to it. he had a hard time finding someone that even heard of a 30 30 cam. but after all the work to find it and install it. he removed it because it killed his fuel mileage.
That cam was so famous and now it has become a mystery. I had one in a 38 chevy with a 301. I'll do some research and see if I have something old enough to be genuine chevy in specs.
I've run a couple of those. We actually used to set the last at .028/.028 - gave just a little bit better lift, and with Chevron Supreme (white pump/106 octane) at 30 cents a gallon....we didn't need no stinkin mileage. You can put together a 301, pair of 2.02 doublehump heads, use the 30/30 cam and a genuine GM Z28 Intake with a good Holley and that will be one of the best little street engines around, with some serious sounds burbling out of the pipes. dj
Spot-on propwash. It was "the" cam to have and seems like everyone has taken advantage of the mystery as of late. Steven.
I ran that set up in a 57 Chevy, except my intake was an old TM1 Edelbrock..What a great little engine..
Speed Pro's C113R is the small fuel injected 283 "Duntov" and the specs are the same as Chevy's "097 Duntov" They have the 30-30 but I don't have the specs here at home I have the info at work. The 30-30 is the name the cam got 'cause of the .030" lash. Modern cam grind profiles got away from the big lash. The Comp Cams cam is a good one. I'm not a fan of small block Chevies with gear drives unless you are buildin' a sprint car. Smokey
several years ago I bought 4 of the millings packaged cams. Part number C10P. The rep from mellings said they ground this cam for GM and shiped it to them in GM boxes.. I am running one of these cams in my sportsman circle track car. Pull great. no body belives I run this small of a cam. If any one cares the 097 cam is millings C8P part no. I have set these on 8 and 18 and some times 12 and 18..THe solid lifter no is J992 and the edge orfice unit that replaced the J992 is JX 992.. I have used these 2 cams for around 40 years.. Bobby.......
It's a properly balanced 327 with 10:1 forged, 2.02 humps, an old single plane Edelbrock and an AFB. Going in my '55. All the veterans at my local hangout suggested it right away. "OHHHHHH MAAAAAN....... I TELL YOU WHAT! THAT CAM WAS OUTTA SIGHT!!! THAT'S THE MEANEST IDLE EVER AND THAT 327 WILL SPIN TO THE MOOOOOON!!! THAT THING'L RATTLE LIKE HELL BUT IT'S COOOOL!!!! (so who sells 'em anymore... anybody got an old cam card?) "aww hell, I dunno. I got one somewhere."
I just looked in an old "how to hot rod your small chevy" book, originally printed in 1972. It lists the "Duntov" cam as #3736097. Intake 317 deg./ .382" , Exhaust 288 deg./ .386". It shows a different cam for the 30-30 cam, #3849346. 313 deg./ .447" lift, in single pattern. I liked the Crane Hydraulic L-79 cam. It had the 270-ish duration and the .447 lift. It was in thier blueprint series, and sounded BAD ASS ina 283 with glasspacks. good luck!
Had a Duntyov cam in a 327 that was in a '64 Vette I had back in the 70's, ran like a Beast & sounded great. Wish I still had that motor.
#### This is the correct info as how I remeber it. I bought one of these back in the 70s and the race engine builder I hung around looked at the specs and said ""It's gonna make way more RPMs than that ol 283 you got will ever withstand"" And guess what he was right !!! >>>>.
From what I understand about the 30-30 cam (from listening to my Dad and Uncle) is that they were great for the track, not worth a shit on the street. The 30-30 cam was made to perform 4,000 rpm+ . But, like you, I would like to see the exact cam specs...... All I can find is 30-30 copy grinds from different cam companies, but none of them are the same.
Be advised that a 30/30 cam is a mean cam in a small displacement motor 301 and smaller but in a 327 it acts like a 300 hp cam. The idle is less radical and it does not seem to make as much power. From the days when I had hair!
I have a hard time imagining that a cam from the early 60's for a SBC ran that much intake and exhaust duration.
The 327 in my '55 was built in the late '70s and has a Duntov 30-30. Driven very little until I bought it two years ago. Very choppy idle and it sounds more like a cammed-up Rat than a Mouse. I agree with Fuzzy that it doesn't pull as hard as it sounds. Mufflers are old Thrush Hush "Hemi" long turbos with short pipes that dump ahead of the differential so the sound is worth it alone. (M22 4spd/4.30 gears).
Very true on the big engines calming a radical cam down. This: For the Comp hydraulic 30-30 : advertised duration: 286 intake/293 exhaust, duration @ .050 : 239 /246 , lift : .483" /.477" , lobe center: 112 degrees. is very close to one Crower cam I ran in the 462" Buick a few years back. Sounded cool when the engine was cold or not quite warm, but once warmed up, it didn't sound quite so rad. A K-B cam with virtually the same timing, but an 118* lobe separation did about the same, but once warm it sounded like an old Ford 8n tractor....
The 097 cam was a factory solid lifter Corvette cam for the 283 engine. Probably the FI cam but I'm not certain of it's original engine but probably the 283-283 FI or the 283-270 HP engines. The 097 was the last 3 digits of the part number. If you walked into a Chevy dealer parts dept and asked for an 097 you got this cam. I don't know the specs. An iconic cam from that era but not as hot as the 327-365 cam that came later. Every time a new cam came out it soon overtook the old grinds. The 327 came out in 1962. I think each year the solid lifter engines changed in their HP ratings. The solid lifter 327 reached it's peak in 1964. We always referred to it as the 365 cam because that was the rated HP of the carbureted solid lifter Corvette that year. I'm pretty sure it shared the same cam with the Fuel inj 375 Hp engine. It used the 30-30 lash settings and was nick named the 30 30 cam. My 63 327-340HP solid lifter Corvette had smaller valves and a different cam than the 365 30-30 cam In 65 they came out with the L-79 327-350 HP HYDRAULIC lifter cam. This quickly passed the 365 cam because it did not need constant adjustment. The solid lifter cams used nuts that were slightly squashed so that they would not easily back off. But they did so the polylock was invented. To get a solid lifter early Chevy to really run, you needed a hefty 410/456 rear gear to get them to wind up. Not the best for a street driven sedan. So many of the facts have blurred over time and often repeated after reading them on a message board. These are the facts that I lived. These cams took on mythical proportions because they were cheap and available at every Chevy dealer for the street racer. There were better options but not as cheap. To answer your question look up the factory specs for a 1964 327-365HP Corvette if you want to be technically correct. PS the real heavy hitter street racers only claimed that they had the 30-30 cam. They were running Isky or some other racing cam. We had guys running roller cams on the street.
I have a hard time imagining that a cam from the early 60's for a SBC ran that much intake and exhaust duration. Easy - it's just paper duration, the ramps are waayyy longer than anyone would use today. They were made to have great valve to piston clearance, run 40,000 miles with weak valve springs and pencil pushrods, and not break the stock rods and pistons. How to get that kewl sound: reverse the #5 & 7 plugs wires, and punch a hole in your PCV hose.
When the factory built a 301 to go trans am racing they rounded the 301.6 cubic inches up to 302, that way the uninitiated public thought they came up with something new. They also used the .030"-.030" cam. This was for the production car, of which they had to sell a certain number to qualify to race. They also supplyed the racers with "off-road" cams. There were first and second designs. We recently found the second design in reproduction, I believe it was Comp (not sure). This is a much better cam but in a 301 it has the same characteristics of suddenly coming on strong after the tach passes about 3500, but it likes to go to 8500, where as the "30-30" was good to 7500. The 079 cam has the great sound, and in a fairly mild 327 would be a better choice, but come on! A hydraulic can't come even close to producing the area under the curve that a solid will. And all this hype about having to adjust the valves all the time, Here's the deal: There are two things that cause the need for adjustment; wear and something moving. Use Shell Rotella for the wear problem, and poly-locks for the movement. If this is done you will find that the only time they don't sound quite right is after a night of really hard running/fun. And then it's just a 30 minute job to adjust the valves, and while your in there tighten the headers, set the timing, clean and gap the plugs. Oh, we are building a hot rod, aren't we??? By the way, the factory designs were good for maybe 100,000 miles. That's why the ramps were so gentle, same for the lift. The off road cams were more tailored to racing and used a stronger spring, and therefore could not be expected to live as long, 40,000 sounds reasonable for them.
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