Mopar flathead 6 motors- whats to be expected

Noting that increasing the Cr, fuel and breathing is an increase in HP...just wondering how much bigger a single carb could be had from the stock sized one to try an attempt at a stealth build...stock looking but better than meets the eye....?...eye candy is always nice but it really comes down to what's also inside that makes a difference.

 

A good balance job and an increase in compression ratio will do most of that. 250 to 300 CFM is all the engine will need.

 

Unfortunately, most of the single barrels are pretty much the same throttle bore size, You might get a bit more power by fidling with the main jet or if you could find something with ab externally adjustable jet. That said Plymouth offered a single 2bbl option in 56. This took the 230's HP from 125 to 132. A couple of folks have use adapters to mount a single 2bbl, the adapters are available for about 20 to 30 bucks from various speed shops. Only problem is they turn the carb 90 degrees meaning throttle linkage needs to be modified for the application. there are probably other options, but under the aircleaner the 2bbl would probably look most stock without close inspection.

 

We're building a 1934 Dodge 218 for our HA/GR project. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189651 Figure the 1/4" less stroke will allow it to rev better than a 230 and with the difference of only 12 cu in we should come out OK.

Had a Military Dodge M37B1 with a 230 and it wasn't the fastest thing out there, but it would run all day long a 57 mph with the throttle on the stop and would climb a tree if it could get traction.

 

Maybe I've spent too many years swinging a leg over two wheels, but has anyone ever messed with mikuni side draft carbs for a flathead? Harleys have used them for eons and they're in the nearly same rpm range as these flathead motors...I could slmost picture 3, 28-34mm mics hanging off the side of a flathead 6 - one carb per 2 cylinders. The hard part is figuring out the actual cfm ratings for these carbs to get the amount of needed cfm flow right.

 

Actually, this has been done. The 'search' button is your friend, both here, and over at p15 where you will find a you-tube video of such (low quality video but still a video...)

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440,

What are your plans for the engine? I see the SU's in early pics, are they still in the picture? I had a set from a 3 liter Triumph TR6 for my 230, but a fenton intake dropped in my lap so I wnet with the dual carters. I have had my 230 on a chassis dyno, and it is doing 127 HP at the rear wheels at 3200 RPM. So there is probably another 6 or 7 there at 3600 where the factory rated Peak HP. Which would probably translate to 145/150 or so at the flywheel taking out drive train losses.

Would think for 1/4 mile useage taking a bunch of weight out of the flywheel would likely make a lot of difference. Might also ditch the Harmonic balancer if ti has one for the plain pulley.

So Port matching the intakes and exhausts to the manifold gaskets, upping the compression, and losing some weight seems like a reliable way to make it run pretty well. I noticed Hudsonator posted a couple items on your thread. He had a Mopar flat 6 pulling tractor that made a lot of believers out of flat 6 skeptics. You might want to give him a hollar about what he did to the oiling system that allowed him to twist it to 5K + reliably.

Also a fellow on the P15 D25 board just detailed his modifications of /6 electronic dizzy to work in his flattie, which will run the Chrysler electronic igition.

I think you might suprise some of the guys with the "other" engines.

 

201 with triple carbs, lots of info in this thread regarding carbs and stuff.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=24666

 

We're running the pair of 1 3/4" SUs for intake, I have experience tuning them from back in our sports car days. Starting out with a basically stock cam and bumping the compression a bit with a shaved cast iron head. The ports are massaged some and the oiling will be taken care of too. The flywheel has gone on a serious diet as well and the heavy balancer has met the scrap bin, being replaced with an aluminum degree wheel. The ignition will remain points and condenser for ease of tuning, (see my sig line, my brain doesn't do electronics, but I still can diagnose points with ease).

Hoping to keep the car in the 1,000 lb range and figure that the little engine should do just fine. Plan on digging up some of my tricks from "back in the day". Started drag racing in 1962 with a flathead '53 Ford Victoria gasser and other than the roll cage, the whole project is designed around that kind of technology.

We may not have the quickest and fastest car out there, but we're planning on having the biggest grins.

 

What's a good search title for that vid?...."flathead 6 with mikunis"?

 

Sorry, meant to include the link, just use 'mikuni':
http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/search.php?searchid=1175082

Or this one... http://olskoolrodz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52446&highlight=mikuni

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^^^ 73RR your first link is a dead end. the second one certainly goes into a lot of detail but does not result in but one installed and running engine. I believe the last o is from the fellow here who put together what he called hsi full race flattie, and it failed on his first run of any consequence. the car is listed i the classifieds here if I'm not mistaken.

But it may all go to prove that when one builds one of these regardless of displacement, what you end up with is a long stroke engine that works best below a 4500 redline, and any attempt to go above that is best left to others.

I like mine, I like the way it runs, and its dependability.

 

Just try this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDAVWBtDu64

 

Well dag nabbit all....this here compooooter machine is jest not veery helpful.....
Modeljunkie was/is looking for info so I was trying to offer what he, apparently, hadn't yet found.
Multiple carbs on any engine can be a challenge and an IR intake has its own issues. I am not suggesting that they are or are not a viable option, each of us have to make that decision for ourselves.
The bottom line is how much work you/he/anyone is willing to put into a project in order to have something unique...bragging rights...and also have something that runs, drives and has a modicum of reliability.
In my little corner of the world I prefer to use a single carb on whatever the engine happens to be except when we discuss Webers.

I do agree with you in regards to working within the confines of what the engine design has to offer.

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Interesting thread. Remember a Plymouth 6 won the first Southern 500 at Darlington S.C.

 

Basically cuz it was running on truck tires and had to make fewer pit stops for tires and fuel. Still a good showing against a starting field of 75 cars.

 

I'll check out the mikuni link in a minute- Thanks!

In the meantime I have an odd question...what a shock, huh?
I spied this long ago on mine and when some folks here mentioned rebuilt engines that had a tag I got to thinking...
Here's a pic of the remnants of a tag near my engine number...could this possibly be a tag stating a rebuilt engine or just a factory tag that got ripped off long ago?

 

Consider that rebuilt engines were available from literally dozens of vendors including the likes of Sears and Wards so the shape of the tag could be whatever their standards were.
The over-the-counter replacements from Mopar had a completely blank pad and some rebuilders then stamped them to match the original...recall that some states used the engine number on the title and rebuilders had to stay in line.

Your remnant certainly could be from a rebuilder.

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That scratching on the block # boss makes me wonder, but the tag has a little boss that it's attached to that looks cast in...you can't add that after the fact.
Just seems odd.......



Oh, check your PMs...

 

Definately a rebuilders tag, but the original engine number starts with P10 which means it correct to the year of the car's manufacture. As noted there were lots of rebuilders, From Sears and Roebuck to Jasper, and folks that used the Chrysler Method, these were licensees that signed into The official mopar rebuilding specs. these rejected blocks that needed more than .010 off the crank rods or mains.

Here is a thread discussing some of the posibilities. Other threads have discussed engies with different color paint, Jasper used a distinctive green, others used a machine grey, and still other did not redo the outside of the block.

here is a recent discussion

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29930&highlight=rebuilders

 

We sent a lot of the engines out of the M37s to an outfit called Lomac in portland, they also supplyed engines for Sears in this area.

 

Got some seafoam and marvel mystery oil last night...between either one of those I'm hoping to gain some compression back if I'm lucky.
Now, for a question- can I use the pictured remote oil filter on my system so long as I reduce the fittings down to the needed 1/8"?

 

Bob sence your in Farm country check out tractor salvages Massey 92 combines used dodge and Chrysler Sixes.

 

We're leaving soon to head over to princeton for my wifes family gathering...I intend to pick some brains while there...and eat too much of Pats great cooking as usual - her aunt can cook!{wish my wife could cook half that well-hahaha}

 

While trying to remove some very stubborn floor board bolts to better access some sloppy shift lickage issues, I went into the engine bay to try and remove some high beam wires for when the floor does finally come out and noticed something odd...down at the very bottom of my motor, low left of the dizzy were some cast in block markings - a date code... 10-27-48 with a capital A over them. Now I have a very slight idea of when the motor was replaced on mine..slight only because I have no idea how long this puppy sat before being installed in my car...nor whether it's still a 201 block - or better.
Aside from pulling the head and checking bore diameter and piston travel, is there any way of disterning the size of the engine via some stamping on the block?

 

No luck there...the joys of them owning a fordson/new holland parts dealership...ralph did show me a pic of their old 38 plymouth 4 door though after 3hrs of searching for it...worth it just for that alone!

 

Hmmm...the devil is making me think it!!!!!!! I happen to have a blower off of a 54 kaiser manhattan..a mcculloch vs57...has the kaiser badge and all - cept no dang tensioner pulley nor kaiser L6 motor bracket.
I'd bet the ol kaiser L6 had the same specs for rpm usage as a mopar L6 and eons ago paxton said they'd rebuild mine, but to a set pulley size only-no vari drive, if I sent it to them...don't remember how much and that was then anyway, not todays money.

Anyone know, seen, or has a mopar L6 with a mcculloch/paxton supercharger on it...this would be too cool...and get the blower off my shelf where it's been for eons!

 

I used one of these on my L6.

 

Got a pic, I'd like to see how you plumbed it.

 

Saw a Dodge pickup a few years ago at the James Dean show in Fairmont, had a turbo from a Ford T-Bird 2.3 plumbed in. He said it turned his 218 into a 318!