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SDRA Dragster For The Coast Build Thread

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by Old28, Jun 30, 2011.

  1. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    I'll tell you there are a lot of small things that all take time before it's first "Burnout Video", but we just keep moving forward.:D

    Dick, I do have a concern about the way the brakes are functioning. I've setup a lot of dragster & hot rods and never had this problem come up before. You can look at the past two picture sets to see the setup. The rear end is an 8.8 that I completely redid the backing plates, drums, shoes and all springs, new wheel cylinders. Master cylinder is new also.

    I have no brake peddle free play, no more than 3/4". I went back in today and set the brake shoes to the smallest diameter hoping it would take a little more peddle to fully open the shoes. Tested them with no real change. I know that there is not a lot of extra Clarence with all new stuff inside, but I still think I should have more play.:mad:

    What say guys????? :confused:
     
  2. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Is your master cylinder's piston returning far enough to uncover the bleed-off vent inside? That'll keep a pedal hard. In other words, are you getting the (shoe springs driven) "fountain" inside on the back stroke?
     
  3. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Dick, I will check it again in the morning. I think I saw the return to the fluid cup, but I will check. When I did have the drums off I checked to make sure the wheel cylinder were opening and expanding the shoes and all was OK. Will test in AM. Thanks, Tom
     
  4. OBFB HA/GR
    Joined: Jun 2, 2008
    Posts: 455

    OBFB HA/GR
    Member

    Hey Tom, did you know that there is some "Aussie" magic in that there Chevy. Just ask Dick about it.
     
  5. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Tom, The Grape Car is coming along nicely. Glad you have healed enough to get in it.

    Yeah, I'm having a bit of difficulty hauling my old bones out of my rig too. Maybe we can get the rules changed so we can put in a door???
     
  6. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    Tom... Did you install a 2# residual valve on the master cylinder.. If the master cylinder is lower than the wheel cylinders, You will need one probably.. JM2cW... BTW. Tom.. They didn't have a 9" in 52....Do you mean 62.???
     
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  7. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    bobw -- Bob a door would be real nice, but then NHRA would put us under door car rules and want a 12 piint cage!:eek: I better just loss that 50#'s I need to so we can stick with our 5 & 6 point cages. It's coming along, today I changed the brake peddle setup and cut an 1 1/2" off the bottom of the dash for a little more leg room. Working on securing the floor boards and getting the gas peddle mounted. Thanks for the good word.:)

    ThingyM -- Dick, I used those residual valve on the 29 RPU I built but I have never used them on my race cars and they all had the master cylinder below the wheel cylinders. I spent 3 hrs today going through the system and I can not find any problem. If you pump the peddle and open the bleeders the master goes to the bottom like it should (lines are all full). Because all the brake system is new and I only have a total of about 80" total of line this may be how it is going to operate. I closed the shoes all the way down and then opened both 8 notches and the brakes stop the tires with no problem, just not much free peddle.:rolleyes:

    My daughter came up this weekend and brought the drive shaft, it had the trans yoke on it and it slides right into the glide, just need to shorten it to 13 1/8" C/C. If you want me to pickup that 300 motor from rocky, give him a call and make sure it is what you want as I may be in Fresno on April 8 for an antique action with Dixie and I will pick it up.:D
     

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  8. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Tom, one thing you could do to get more movement on the pedal would be go to a smaller diameter master cylinder. Either that or change the location of the pedal pivot to alter the ratio between the cylinder end and the pedal which would give you higher pressure at the master at lower pressure at the pedal end.
     
  9. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    64 DODGE 440 -- Thanks Tom for the information. The master cylinder is a 7/8" unit of what brand I have no idea. I have always used 7/8" Wilwood master cylinder on all my race cars with very good luck and I may change to one after I get this car running. My peddle is about a 2 to 1 setup with 3" on the bottom and 6" on the top. I don't have a lot of room for changes so I think I will leave it as is until I can test it with the power train working.:rolleyes:
     
  10. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    2 to 1 seems like very little leverage, 4 to 1 would probably help a bunch. Thinking our hand lever is probably closer to 6 to 1 or more. Within reason, the higher the ratio the better. Less pressure required and more feel at the pedal.
     
  11. Joe Hamby
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 405

    Joe Hamby
    Member

    Old28, before you do anything else, change your ratio to about 6 or 7 to one. The fact that it will stop the wheels now, probably on stands. It may not work with the weight of the car on those wheels. I think that that master will work fine then. Joe
     
  12. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    64 DODGE 440 -- Joe Hamby -- Tom & Joe, thanks for the recommendation on the ratio. I will see what I can do to get into a 6 or 7 to 1 ratio. It would be nice if I don't need to change out the master.
     
  13. they are right I looked at the pics and your pivot has to be relocated downwards keep the pedal as long as possible as long as you have enough stroke to compress the piston fully and with a 7/8" bore it should feel like power brakes
     
  14. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    jeff/21 -- Joe Hamby -- 64 DODGE 440 -- I have lengthened the peddle end to 9" and the bottom below the pivot is 3" long right now for a total of 12". This is the max length that I can use. I need 2" on the bottom to compress the master completely so that would leave 10" above the pivot for a 5 to 1 ratio. I am going to modify the bottom of the peddle to see if I can change the angle so I can get the bottom to 1" with the top at 9" and the pivot point at the current place. I will build another master cylinder push rod with a 'Z' so it will run flat as it needs to. If this will work I will come out with a 9 to 1 ratio.

    I'll get to it later this week. Need to finish floor board permanent installation and work on the sheet metal trans cover so I can use my SFI-5 driving gear.
     
  15. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Little more each day. I got the shifter tower built and the shifter mounted in place. Had to add a 1/2" tube extension to the reverse lockout clip as I can not reach it when I am belted in the seat. I had to do the same thing on my 28 altered. I am sure the main problem is that I can't move the shifter back because of my "big ---" in the seat.:eek:

    With the shifter tower in place I was able to finish the left side floor board. With all the stuff that is in the way, I had to cut the floor in 3 sections to get it in place. Only 2 sections on the right side. Good part is they do not need to be removed to pull the motor and trans or to service drive shaft.

    Next is to form a sheet metal cover over the trans so it is enclosed and I will be able to use my existing SFI/5 safety equipment. We will see how we do in the next few days.
     

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  16. Tom,

    Nice work, looks great.

    Skip Pipes
     
  17. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Skip Pipes -- Thanks for the good word. As I have said many times in this thread, I am more of a racer than a builder. With that said I like my race cars to look clean and finished. The work you and (bobw) do is at another level from mine.

    I think it will work out great when its done. I just want to make some passes and enjoy the friends at the races.

    Get that 292 together and come out and have some fun with the group.
     
  18. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Got started on powerglide cover today. For those that are not up on the rules on "open trans" and "covered trans",per the NHRA Tech rules you need automatic transmissions covered in the driving compartment if you want to use SFI-5 safety equipment, if you have a open trans you are required to use SFI-15 gear. Cost a lot less to cover the trans than to invest in a 15 suit.

    As you can see from the pictures I have don't have a sheer or metal brake so I cut it with a 4" grinder and bend it over some tubing, paint cans, front and rear tires to get it close. it ain't pretty but it works. Hope to finish tomorrow.;)
     

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  19. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Your work's nice and neat, very clean looking. However, I'm jealous of how nice your pictures come out. Mine always come out too dark, then when I lighten'em up on the computer they get grainy. Is there something I could learn, or is it just plain a better camera? :eek:
     
  20. Tom,

    I think your being modest concerning your fab skills. I would have done it exactly the same way. Well done.

    Skip Pipes
     
  21. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    Tom, Very nice work. In ways it's more fun to build parts without all the professional tools. Skip's work is outstanding. Mine is acceptable. My camera has a setting that makes things look better than they really are.

    Dick, being the thorough person that you are and being highly technically competent, I'd bet you have investigated every setting and mode your camera has to offer. Tom does get excellent pics.
     
  22. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Yes...:p
     
  23. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Old6rodder -- Dick, I have always taken my pictures with the flash on so I don't have to lighten them with the computer. My camera takes the pictures at a very high resolution 1280 x 960 size (497KB) and I have a Microsoft Picture It program that reduces it to 720 x 576 that most all Web Sites can except. The camera is nothing special, 12 year old Fuji that we have shot 1,000's of pictures with. I really can't tell you how any of this works, I wish I could, not that sharp.:confused: Thanks for the good word.

    Skip Pipes -- Skip, No I am a realest, I'm learning more each day on how to do this stuff at home and not have to send it out. Being retired puts a little more push on the self fabing when the cash ain't there. It's all good. Thanks ;)

    bobw -- Bob, all I've got to say is that it ain't your camera setting.:D
    I will say that it is real satisfying when you see the results.

    64 DODGE 440 -- Tom, it should be obvious that I am the one ho has the magic camera setting.
     
  24. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Old28, as far as I am concerned, all of the digital pictures and compooper stuff are PFM. :D

    All of those electrons and killiwiggleses are running around messing with our minds.
     
  25. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    64 DODGE 440 -- Tom I totally agree. I ain't got a clue how it all works, I am just happy it puts out nice pictures. Like I have said before that I like a lot of pictures, not that good with the written word.:D

    Well I got the trans cover done today. A little racer tape here and there just to keep it honest. Next is locating and mounting the throttle peddle, setting up the shifter & throttle cables, wiring. I know one thing for sure, the closer it get to being race ready the smaller that driver compartment is getting. Along witjh that my weight reduction program is in reverse, but it's all good and Im still having fun.;)
     

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  26. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Got 90% of the electrical done today, need to go to my welding supply store to get material to build the hot wire lead to the starter in the morning. Hope to have electric all done tomorrow.

    Got some cage padding on today. I don't really like how it looks, but I may leave it until after we run the first time. Don't need SFI padding, but this looks to bulky.:mad:

    Working on the riser for the gas peddle that should help me when getting out of the car. Will install another heal stop on the brake side also.
     

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  27. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    You're really bookin' on your car, it looks great. :D

    I went with an idea of Gary's (Gorilla Trap). Though I'm using commercial padding (one sided, off-set), I wrapped all of it in cheap, thin, black electrical tape. It mounts it far more solidly than the glues or velcros, and it looks really great, very old school.
     
  28. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Well I got all the wiring done and need my battery from Summit racing, figures it would be back ordered (10-15 days). That's OK, we will make it work. There price off of the "bay" with free shipping was $52 less than I could get it locally and no tax. I really like the Optima battery and have used them in my last two race cars.

    Spent some time the other night laying out some different header patterns that would work with my top frame rail and clear the steering link. I talked Dick (ThingyM) into passing on the old one he had on his car and with some cutting and welding they look like they will work out fine. See how they look painted and in place with the old modified stock intake bolted up.

    I am trying to set the car up the same a Dick had his so I can see what the "little 194" will do before I start modifying the drive train. It will have the same stock intake (Has been opened up were the one barrel sat) and will still use 2 - 94's like he had it. Motor is still the same as when it ran before. After I get some good runs and information, we will start modifying it to see what she will do with some low dollar changes.

    To All " Have a great Easter Sunday"
     

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  29. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Two questions for the SDRA group out there ???????????:confused:

    Is a Holley 4160 4Bl that was OEM on a lot of Fords, Lincoln, Mercury and Mustangs 58-74 a carb that fits the rules?
    It can be had in 390, 500, 600 & 750 CFM size. Vac secondaries.

    Anyone in SDRA using a rev limiter? What brand?
     
  30. mudflap261
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 588

    mudflap261
    Member
    from tulsa

    carbs ok [Iwould like to see era specific carbs rule 3 one and two barreles but I got out voted, multiples look more racey harder to tune for most folks ] limiter rule was put in mainly for slant 6 guys the things will go to 8000 but the stock rods tend to come apart . we have a pertonics dont know what hamby uses. the GMC/chevys dont seemto need them your build is first class welcome aboard keep up the good work .wish you aspeedy recovery from your recent operation L J
     

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