Okay, I'm having a hell of a time trying to get this bolt out. As you can see, it holds the front eye of the rear leaf spring. The problem isn't that it's frozen to the bracket or anything, since I can turn the bolt using a wrench just fine, it's that no matter what or how hard I try, it just refuses to slide out. It'll turn and turn and turn all day, but pounding on the back of it and trying to pry it out doesn't do anything! The other side came out without too much of a hitch, so I'm wondering what the deal is with this side... The way I tried to bang it out was via a steel rod that I inserted through the back to hit the end of the bolt. The hammer won't reach in there, but no matter how hard I pounded on the shaft, it doesn't budge the bolt.
Any chance that there is a steel bushing in there? (check opposite side that came out?) If it isn't there, and holding the bolt, may have to cut the head off w/torch and push thru the opposite direction.
The problem is rust on the inside. Even though it turns, it won't release the bolt. You have to soak it with Kroil, Gibbs , etc. and bang the hell out of it. That's they way I solved my problem. If you can rig up a bottle jack to apply some hydraulic pressure that may work. Never tried it myself.
use a sawzall and cut the bolt on each side of the spring bushing. The bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve in the bushing. The spring will just fall out and then you can get the remains out of the bushing on the workbench.
Exactly...and assuming you have the chassis jacked up and on stands, put another jack under the rear axle and lift it enough to unload the bolt. So the weight isn't hanging from the bolt or pushing up, just neutral. That will make the bolt as loose in the hole as possible. I need to pull another leaf from the rear on my son's '65. So let us know which ones you end up pulling from the rear and how it works out. Tomcat
You need a bigger hammer. It's like a Blond...till she has 2 black eyes you just havn't EXPLAINED things to her.
I am with the guys suggesting cutting the bolt on both sides between the spring and bracket method, but I invested in a Mac air chisel and got the punch attachment for it. I have driven all kinds of stuck stuff out with that thing, but after awhile the hands go numb. Good luck with it.
The bracket may flex on the bolt head side when you punch it,so it jams. Try to put a vice of some sort on the bracket\frame, and hit it again. Z.
Do you have an air compressor, with an impct driver, and an air hammer? set up two lines. FAQ I am geting sick of this board!
FWIW if you end up cutting it make your life easier, use a cutoff wheel on a grinder. Will be a little faster and easier particularly if you have to lay on your back to do it. Goggles highly recommended. Don't ask me how I know this.
I used a 1mm cutting disc in a grinder and cut the bolt either side of the spring. It was rusted solid in the steel bush and the rubber was the bit that was turning.
Yeah I kinda suspected that I would have to cut it off. That's what I had to do with the front leaf spring's rear bushing too. It's a pain in the ass the way it's in there, but whatever.
I'd try unloading the tension first, in case there is a wear shoulder holding it. If/when that doesn't work...CUT, CUT, CUT! Then beat the hell out of it. Good luck.
Welcome to rusty ole junk! I mean classic cars and trucks! If you ever get something like this that a sawzall can't reach, an electric 1/4" die grinder with a 3" x 1/8" disc on a short arbor is an incredible weapon of precision destruction. Great for removing bolt heads in tight spots, and doesn't care if it's cutting hardened steel. Wear appropiate safety gear. Good luck!
If you can fit it in there, I've used those Ball-joint presses that look like big C-clamps to drive bolts out of these type of bushings before. Those damn sleeves practically weld themselves to the bolt after years of rust.