Ok, I solved the header issue. New problem. I need to get the front plate off to drill the holes for the motor mounts. To do this I need to remove the timing gears. How do I go about them? A big screwdriver didnt work, needless to say.
See the two holes in the upper timing gear ? Rotate the crank while looking thru those holes and you'll see they'll eventually line up with a couple of screws that hold the retainer. Loosen & remove the screws and remove the can GENTLY, unless you're going to replace the cam bearings. The gear on the crank is pressed on and it'll have to be pressed off.
you are drilling and tapping holes in the motor block for new mounts? Im not saying its wrong, just wondering why you chose that alternative?
Didn't ever have to pull the plate - just made a paper template using an earlier 216/235 plate as a guide, then drilled the holes from the bottom. I used a tubing spacer on the drill bit so I didn't wreck into the timing cover with the bit. The worst part of the entire operation was not being able to duplicate the index flats the early front mounts used. If you're going to the trouble of pulling the cam, you might consider changing to an earlier mount plate. Also, an aluminum cam gear is cheap insurance - those 50 year old fabric gears have a habit of failing at the worst possible time. Give the oil dripper for the gears a short blast of air so you know it's not plugged. Hope you're going to shorten the water pump shaft instead of moving the radiator - makes it a bolt-in swap ... 302
Installing the radiator so the mount ears slide in front of the support ears provides enough clearance with no modifications at all. It's a little harder to bolt it in, but there is a good inch of clearance between the fan and radiator with a stock water pump. At least, that's how it is with the '56 235 in my '50 Fleetline, which came that way. It has a water pump pulled used from a '55 engine (because at the time I wanted to be able to run it long enough to check for any signs of cracks or water leaks, and the one it came with was leaking). It has a stock 4-blade fan on it. Anyone have a source for those aluminum timing gears - the usual suppliers (chev's of the 40's, etc.)?
I wish I had the earlier plate, I'd just bolt it on. Problem is I can't find one, so it seems I'm stuck drilling this one. Im somewhat disturbed to find I have to pull the cam.
If you do decide to pull the cam, because for some reason you can't drill it with the plate on the engine, you have to remove the rocker arms, pushrods, and valve lifters first, then remove those two screws behind the gear, and pull the cam out. It may be stuck in there from varnish on the journals, so it might require a little gentle prying once you have all the other stuff out of the way. If you decide to change the gear to a new aluminum one, which is a very good suggestion, make SURE the shop that presses the gears on and off has an adequate tool to support the thrust plate all the way around it, right next to the journal. If the support tool is loose on the journal, or it's only supported on two sides, then they'll break the thrust plate, it's cast iron.
The cam gear will come off as mentioned by removing the reatining plate screws. There's an old trick to getting the crank gear on or off, something I learned way back in high school auto shop while working on a 51 Chevy... Get some dry ice and apply it (wrapped in a rag, of course) to the crank snout. Hold it on the crank for about 15-20 minutes. Then, quickly heat the crank gear only (without hitting the crank snout) using a propane torch for a couple minutes. Grab the crank gear quickly with a thick welding glove and it'll slide right off. Reverse the procedure to install the gear, only it's even easier, because you can ice the whole crank snout, then hold the crank gear in a vice or with pliers and heat it up good. It will then slip onto the crank with ease.
The Jalopy Journal
