Hot Rods The Hitchhikers Guide:The Hot Rod Ford Model A or AV8 Coupe. Post war 40's build.

eh, mines the same way. Some days I feel like there's no point, but then I realize that people probably treat mine the way that I treat others... That is, I read long, follow all the updates, but just don't make any comments.

I'm reading, so keep typing!

 

I think you're gettin' there.... Trim the tabs a bit with yer snips and dress the edges with a file... I'd drill for 3/16" pop rivits unless you're buildin' a show car... It looks good from this angle!!!

 

yep

 

We're all reading, and whether we comment or not, its motivating to see guys making progress. Its looking good - keep it coming!

 

Thanks everyone, It's takes me so damn long to upload and resize pictures. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my time.

 

I read it.
I think there are probably a number of us with a pile of parts that are beginning to piece things together like yourself. I think you're doing great.

Like yours, the lower portion of one of my B-pillars needs to be repaired and I've been thinking about whether to re-rivet it back to the subframe, or just punt, and bolt or weld it in. I'm leaning toward the rivets, Which do you intend to do?

 

Better hurry...flathead run is next weekend!!!

 

More cutting, grinding, and filing.



fitting a little better



First test fit with clamps





Welding soon.

 

Maybe next year.

I'll show that in a few more post. Thanks for the encouragement.

 

How do you like those clamps? I'd tighten that gap before I weld on that old metal, I've been wanting to pickup some of those clamps but I don't like gaps on thin rusty metal.

Never mind me, can't wait for some more pictures!

 

I'm not sure I have enough experience to say if I like them or not. they seem to work okay. But you right about the gap.

 

So about the gaps and clamps, I ended up having trouble practice welding with the clamps and old metal. I tended to burn threw a lot. With new metal, the clamps seemed fine. I ended up welding with vise grips as clamps.



better gap



I ended up just tacking things together for now. I thought I might redo this piece again at at a later date. there is a line in the original that the quarter panel skin raps around so it is flush mounted with the rest of the pillar. I wasn't able to duplicate that at this time. But I feel good considering this is the first piece of metal I have ever shaped, even though it's amateur at best. On the bottom I used a sheet metal screw to hold things in place of a rivet. I plan on learning how to redo the stock rivets and want to be able to adjust things as I fit the doors and roof back on.



And now for something completely different.

 

Also this happened. I bought a single cheap and bought another single for a fair price as well.

 

Those are bitchin!

 

It was at this point I switched it up a little and jumped back to the chassis. The drivers rail, while it need some work, is still sound. I'm still working on panel beating so while practicing that I started on the motor mounts. I went with what "THE BOOK" says. I used 2x3 .125 wall tubing cut it 4 1/2 inches long. I cut it with my trusty band saw.



I highly recommend you buy one of these on craigslist if you are a beginner like me. They can be had cheap.

Then I marked the shape I wanted using what I had available.

 

Cool! Keep Workin at it, looks like my roadster and your coupe should be completed about the same time.

 

Never ever freeze mayonaise!

I'd stay with spot welding, a little at a time, it takes longer but it is tricky with old pitted metal like that. The new piece looks great.

Diggin' the lights.

 

Just throwing this out there, I've found gas welding with a 00 tip works well with the original sheet metal (apox 19 gauge), less grinding. The only downside is you need to be able to get behind the metal to re-stretch it a bit.

 

Im just lookin at the pictures

 

I might try that today, thanks.

Hey Hitchhiker, any more pictures to look at?

 

I do.....I'll try and get started on that today. I gotta upload them to photobucket.....it takes me forever.

 

Question....Why can't I just modify the original flange on my F1 box to fit the frame instead of cutting off a model a snout and welding it on?

Just trying to get some stuff done while pictures upload.....handy to have 2 lap tops.

 

I believe you can. I read somewhere about doing this very thing when I was going to do this route.

 

quit slackin already!!!!

 

I like that! Bitchen.

 

what rear mount should I be using on my Top loader if I want closed drive and I am using a F1 crossmember?

 

If by "top loader" you mean a Ford 3 speed, the only choice is the 21A style with the 21A style rear bearing retainer. The toughest part sometimes is the fat carriage bolts that bolt the big rubber taco to the crossmember and the big bolts that come through the bearing retainer wings. Now that style rear bearing retainer is for torque tube. Think the open is a 21C. Since I missed some of your build, may not be up to date. Good Luck: Fred A

 

Fred A is correct, use the stock F-1 pickup tranny mount. Everything will just bolt together.

 

I thought the stock one was for open drive?