Somebody help me out with some simple info about those old Genuine Suspension Ball Joint Lift Kits. These are the ones that are shaped like the letter "C" and are usually constructed of Ductile Iron. They bolt in between the Upper Ball Joint and the top of the spindle. Everybody seems to have a different opinion of what exactly they do and I've heard three different theories but would appreciate if somebody set the facts straight. Anyway, do they: A. They raise the front of the car by themselves? B. Allow higher front-end-lift or travel upon the initial launch/acceleration? C. Allow for the front suspension to be aligned properly after being raised up in a different manner? Thanks for any input!
They will not raise the car unless you add taller springs or spring towers. You should contact Alan Morris at: [email protected] He has completely reproduced the old "Genuine Suspension" lift kit for 55-57 Chevys. As I understand it, The 55 pictured here has an original "G. S" lift kit. The pictures below are of the reproduction kit Alan sells. The 57 has been set up like this for a couple of years and runs 12.50 in the quarter without troubles! So the actions speak loudest! My parts will be here late next week I will keep everyone posted.
Subscribed - Same route I am taking, but without the "C" ball joint spacers. I bought the spring spacers from Speedway, which are basically Eelco repops, but not angled at the bottom like these G.S. ones . . . which now that I see it makes a hell of a lot more sense. I am building a '56 Fairlane with a '72 Camaro front clip, and finding that installing these parts is a major bitch. I'm using stock springs with the spring spacers, and withough the ball joint spacers there is no way in hell to make it all fit between the A arms. Ball joint spacers are on order through the E-bay guy. Could you post larger pictures of this kit installed and the 57? Those thumbnails don't seem to want to open any larger.
Yes to C also. The hole for the ball joint and the stud for the spindle are offset. Also you have to remember that the lower control arms are angled downward from the crossshaft now and that makes for a smaller track width, (not much) but enough to change shim stack by alot. As far as B, the higher you raise the front end (when car is sitting still) the less it will allow extra upward travel.
If used by themselves, then 'B' is the answer as they allow the upper A Arm to droop further before hitting the top out bump. If used with a Spring spacer or a taller spring then they do "D" (which you didn't list), which is allow the front end to sit higher. They will never do 'A', they can't lift it by themselves. They also allow for 'C' proper alignment when installed. I installed a bunch of those when I worked for Security Tire in the 70's.
Has anyone heard from Alan Morris lately. The phone number for the machine shop he worked for is no longer valid. Thanks
From the experience of having front ends apart daily when I was doing that work, it is near impossible to put the coils in without the full weight of the car available to compress the spring when you jack up the lower A arm or lower the car if it is on a hoist. I used two truck tire irons to install springs for years.. one flipped over to slide the spring into the pocket on the lower A arm and the other one to stick through the coils a couple of coils up to lift the inside of the coil and let the coil slide into place in the lower control arm .It works best if you have a helper working the jack. You have all the weight you can get pushing down on that lower control arm so you can compress the spring far enough to put the ball joint in the spindle.
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