Can't say anything at all about a Griffin, but my experience with Walker has been great in all respects. I have one on my 31"A" roadster with 355 SBC, and another on my '40 Ford coupe with a little milder SBF. The engine in the roadster is just about as radical as you want in a street/strip car and still maintain decent driveability for the mostly street use. Has a Zip's water pump riser and a 6 blade 17" manual fan, no shroud, have one, but haven't needed it At Steel in Motion in 2014 was the first time I had car on the strip and I ran about 6-8 times back to back. The return road was routed right up the middle of vendor's row and most of the folks there could care lesss if you had to stop for them and you never, ever got out of first gear. The SW gauge never got past 190* The '40 coupe also has a Walker with no shroud and has AC, but no cooling problems whatsoever.
I suppose like anything, radiators are a hit or miss... or hit and piss. I have not a lot invested in my Champion, it was my 1st foray into aluminum radiators on the street. So far so good, have 1400 miles on it. It sat for about 6 weeks over the cold months, I cracked the cap to check the coolant and it was still holding pressure.
Bob If you haven't already done it, I'd recommend rubber mounting any attachment bolts and if there is a bottom tank saddle style mount(s), line that with rubber also. On an aluminum radiator those areas are a concern as much as core/tank sealing, many times the lack of cushioning leads to sealing issues.
Walker cool my blown, full race 406 SBC, with no problems. It has been in the car for 6 years, works like the day I installed it.
I just had a custom radiator built by griffin for an off topic vehicle. They were great to work with and they made the radiator exactly to the drawings. So far it is holding up well. I hope it stays that way. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am in the market for a new radiator for my 51 Ford Woodie.... its a bone stock 8BA Flathead with 3 speed & overdrive... had it cleaned at the local radiator shop... I'm sure the core is plugged up in some areas... and on really warm days it will start running hot... Been looking at Walkers... does anyone know if they build a oe style replacement for 49-51 Ford passenger cars (V8 models) Thank you !
Why not have the original re-cored then? I did that with my 3 row chrysler radiator years ago and it was great with the 392. Also, do you have a shroud? that helps a LOT.
I'd give Lee at Brass Works a call. I'm running a Brass Works radiator in my '39 with an 8ba and it does the job with no issues. He is easy to deal with and very knowledgeable, IMO.
Walker copper/brass is the way to go. Ten year warranty. The Walker in my 46 Ford going strong for twenty years. Pricey initially but worth it. FWI, I did use a Griffin radiator on a 40 Willys without any problems. Gary
Well, I sprung big bucks for a griffin aluminum rad when I built my 36, halfway through my first summer the epoxy on the bottom tank decided to have a rest, after fruitless calls and no action or caring from griffin, I vowed never again. Twenty years later the rad I had built by my local shop is still doing its job, cheaper, better quality and warranty to boot. Find a good rad shop, get one made, for less than mail order, support your local guy, after all they're just radiators, it's not magic.
So far I'm having good luck with my Champion(5000 mi.). They were really easy to deal with. It's not as pretty as some, but didn't cost $1200.00 either(about 325 with fan, shroud & switch). It is a flange mount & I have it solid mounted. Is it truly a good idea to use rubber washers on the bolts? I will buy a Champion for my shoebox if necessary!
I've only had one experience with Griffin radiators. I bought a used one at a racer swap meet and made mounts to use it in my 53 ford pickup with a thin-wall 301 chevy. Put it in and forgot it...no problemo.
There are a number of ways to cushion the mounts but they aren't just rubber washers, some have small lips on each side that (ideally) fit into the tab on the radiator and the core support or whatever you mount it to. The bolts don't actually contact the aluminum. This is how I mounted my Ron Davis aluminum radiator (quality unit). Not welded in these photos.
I have it socked tight against the radiator support, same as the OG one mounted. I could put rubber washers between the radiator and support, good tip.
I guess I had the one bad Walker they've built. When I bought my RPU in '95 the owner had recently installed a new Walker. The top support bracket came off within a week. Barely enough solder in the joint to keep it on in the box. Next the filler neck fell out. Then after about 2 years, the tubes began leaking at the top tank. Had it cleaned and re soldered. 3 years ago, the tubes started leaking at the bottom tank. That was enough for me. Ordered a Brassworks radiator, got it in 4 days,, and been smiling since.
I personally don't like aluminum radiators but in our race car we use a double cross flow CR and they will take a tested 29 psi cap and 260 degrees. I use US brass/copper and have always been happy I do mount them on double ended "lord" mounts because if the will save a Harley D oil tank they will live with a radiator. Too many guys forget that early car mounted them in springs. When GM cars went to the saddle style rubber top and bottom things seemed to change. Engines also got smoother running and maybe the old way was too expensive. Good Luck.
looks like I will be giving Brass works a call for quote... I'll hold to me old radiator just in case... it's original to the car
I made the mistake of buying a Griffin radiator for my roadster. Less than 600 miles and under a year in service, I'm driving down the road and I noticed NY left forearm is wet and the left side of the car has a slight green slimy tint. Contacted crook central at Griffin and they told me to ship it back to them on my dime. I reluctantly did so and waited 3 weeks. Finally I called and was told that it leaked but they couldn't seen where. Foolish me asked about the warranty and was told there was none. But, out of the kindness of their hearts, they offered to make me a new one for only $65 more than my original, charge e for shipping it to me and I eat the shipping on the unit shipped back to them. I told them where to shove my return and called Brassworks. He had just built a '32 radiator and had planned to advertise it. But, he offered it to me on a good deal and I drove over there to pick it up. When I arrived , but I was given a complete tour of the shop. He not only makes radiators for the likes of us but builds radiators for million dollar Pebble Beach stars too. I put it in my roadster and the hemi runs right on the stat at 180, except for driving home from the LA Roadsters meet last year at 108 ambient temp, it ran 190 then. That was after 6 years in the car! Walker may be good, but after touring the shop and 7 years of flawless service, Brassworks hands down!
I tend to stick with copper and brass. I recently put the scope in the tanks of the radiator in my Falcon, to see if I should replace it when I swap engines. Still clean. Still solid. Still the one that it left the factory with, in 1960.
A long time ago I learned that when it comes to brakes, steering and cooling always buy the best. You won't be disappointed. What ever you do, don't buy a Chinese radiator made by small children. How much quality do you think your going to get for $130? Chinese radiator cooling tubes are expoxied not tig welded. In case of leaks they become throw aways. Gary
what did you use?they look like urethane stabilizer link bushings or shock mounting bushings.if so pretty smart improvising true hotrod thinking
Mounting can make a big difference in radiator durability. Years ago I had an OT '64 Jeep p'up, SBC powered. Radiator kept cracking and leaking in the corners repeatedly requiring resoldering. On advice of radiator man, I converted to a "saddle mount" radiator and cradle cut out of an Olds 98. He said old setup was twisting radiator when frame twisted crossing ditches, gullies,etc. Never had another leak.
Brass/copper transfers heat better than aluminum. I can solder/ fix them in my garage. They take stress/vibration better than aluminum. And they look correct for old cars.
Being lighter won,t matter a damn when you are stuck on the side of the road because your radiator failed
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