Technical Needed: Electrical Proof Readers

Just looking for some feedback on this schematic. I believe I have it all sorted correctly but I want to make sure so I don't let any of the smoke out. Not so worried about the oil pressure safety switch but I may install one at some point.

 

I think the wires to the NO and C terminals on the oil press switch are switched?

I'd need more info on the "distributor" to know if it's connected properly.

 

Whats the relay off the Ign splice for?

Dist wiring if funky. You may need to remove the wire from the switch side of the ballast and run it to the start terminal for a full 12v when cranking. Depending on how a joe hunt dist want to be wired.

 

That is the proper wiring for the Joe Hunt look a like dist.

 

Kinda like those Pertronics units?I just couldn't resist Don

 

Gar un teed!

 

Hahaha..Don,it takes one to know one....

 

Are you just illustrating the 'start' circuit? The 'run' circuit is missing and that is confusing me. As shown the ignition has no power, the fuel pump has power only while cranking, if the engine could start then all power to oil pressure switch disappears. Too many supply wires to distributor.

 

Don't know about the JH "mag" wiring but doesn't the NC pole of the safety switch go to the other pole of the solenoid? As shown it gets 12v only when starter is engaged? Not sure, never messed with one.
Ain't wiring fun!?! Especially if you are dealing with someone else's interpretation.
I found this rat's nest wadded up under the dash of my '56. Several wires literally fell out of the (factory) crimped on wire ends, including the main 10 ga power wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch. Ugh.
Are those Joe Hunt mag look-alikes really that bad? What seems to be the problem. Not trying to hijack the thread, just curious.

 

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Both circuits are shown. On the ign switch the IGN terminal line to the left there is a red dot. That is the junction for ignition (run)

 

The one thing on this diagram I'd change is the power to the NC contact on the pressure switch. Rather than come off the 'ign' terminal, connect to the 'bat' terminal. This will remove the pump switching load off the ignition switch and help with switch longevity. With both the ignition system and the fuel pump connected to 'ign' terminal, you're probably real close to if not over the max rating of the switch contact.

I do question how well a fuel pump cutoff would work in case of a loss of oil pressure. Wouldn't the motor keep running until the fuel bowls empty, as well as possibly cause a lean condition (and backfire)? Would an ignition cutoff be better?

 

Ahh, I missed that splice, so then about all you need would be a jumper from the 'I' terminal of solenoid (if that is the terminal that comes 'hot' while cranking else you could go to the side lug with starter cable) to ign coil to give it voltage when cranking. I'm ok with FP temp supply thru NC while cranking so you'll have fuel pressure.

 

Thanks for the gig on the Hunt dist. It already had to be recurved by the break in guy. Grrr.
I believe I got the wiring for the O/P safety sw. off the Holley site. I'll look up the JH dist diagram and post it.

 

start here:

 

Alright, I can't for the life of me get the damn PDF posted but, it's exactly as I have it drawn there in my diagram.

 

this one?

 

yeah, looking at it again, it appears correct. The pump gets power from the start circuit when there is no oil pressure, and from the ignition circuit when there is oil pressure.

 

The 'Green' wire is the only missing circuit that I see, but I am blind.

 

Shit, there! Damn computer. THIS was the drawing I was trying to post regarding the dist.

 

Here's the Holley switch diagram. I had the separate relay and NO contact as you normally would have for a fuel pump. They are incorrect in their diagram as the Common should be on the Line (HOT IGN) side. That's why it's called "Common". Sorry, I'm an AC guy. This damn DC stuff confuses me. Seems like I should need a 3 pole contactor on this car somewhere!

 

Sorry Squirrel, you beat me to it.

 

No, the dwg is labeled correct, the pump is on the Common pin receiving power when cranking via solenoid thru NC; when the engine fires and solenoid de-energizes pressure completes the circuit thru NO to the 'Ign' side of the switch. The only wire you need to add is the Green wire from an earlier dwg you posted, this wire supplys power to the Joe Hunt while the motor is cranking. But, test your ignition switch to be certain, I am used to earlier switches and I think some of the more modern swtches (like 7-'s and newer) may keep power hot to ignition while in cranking. The dwg you posted with the Green wire is for the earlier type keyed switch that drops 'Ign' power out while in Cranking mode, that is th epurpose of the Green wire to backfeed the ignition so it'll start.

 

So, if I'm seeing this correctly, the PSS supplies power to the fuel pump via the starter, during cranking. Once it sees oil pressure, the NO pole is in play keeping the pump on while the NC pole breaks. Right? Hmm.
I like these wiring threads, not having much in the way of electrical background, they are always interesting.

 

I'm assuming the Green wire everyone is alluding to is the one in the second pic? What then is the R terminal? On a flathead would that be the same as the I terminal on the starter sol?


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The green wire supplys power to the coil while the engine is 'cranking'. In order to give all available power to starting the engine the ignition switch breaks its contact to the 'ign' or 'Run' portion of the switch (ign & run get power via fuse block, when in 'start' this connection is severed, when the engine fires the key is released and the connection re-estiblished), during 'start' mode the coil receives power from the starter solenoid, that green wire but the most common color is yellow that I am aware of. If you recall when cranking the engine other things like radio, wipers etc are interrupted until the engine starts and this is done on the ign switch.

 

Why does the mag have a resisted hot and a battery hot
Is there a Start circuit


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Always to many Chiefs when it comes to wiring makes for confusion that's already confusing. I'm out before......

 

Here's what I come up with after a thorough proofreading...

 

I would change the wiring for the relay. I would come off the common on the oil pressure switch and let that pick up the relay. I would come off the battery and set a fuse and feed the fuel pump through a normally open contact on Relay 1. I tried to change your drawing. Maybe this works. I would put the fuse between the battery and the contacts on the relay, not where shown on the drawing.