I recently got a 230 Dodge flathead to put in my 37 Plymouth. The 230 is dated 1951. The blown engine I pulled out of my 37 is a 218 dated 1946. I needed to switch bell housings because I'm not using a column shift. Okay... so the 218's clutch disc and pressure plate had a significant groove. The 230's clutch was fine, so I went with that one. I started the engine for the first time the other day (out of the car). I was getting tiny sparks from the clutch... as the pressure plate assembly is grinding slightly against the bellhousing. So I'm using the 51 clutch kit in the 46 bellhousing. Follow me? I'm wondering if the pressure plate assemblies were different in those years and if that's my issue. Maybe I have the disc backwards? Should I grind off that little bit on the assembly that's catching? Buying a new kit is beyond budget for a little while, but I really want to get the engine in the car. I'd appreciate some input because I'm stuck until I figure out what to do! I'd rather ask questions before shooting at this point. I don't have much transmission experience, and those bolts are a PAIN! Many thanks!
You may have put the disc in backwards. Did you hold the "new" up to the old to compare sizes of clutch, disc and pressure plate before re-assembly?
Have you tried asking this on http://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/? Lots of guys there with lots of experience. One thought that comes to mind - was your 230 originally coupled to a fluid drive? If so, the crankshaft flange will be thicker than the one on the 218, which would cause your clutch to mount "further back" in the bell housing. This was recently discussed on the p15-d24 site.
The clutch is physically identical except the teeth on the flywheel are wider on the older one. Still physically identical. I don't think the 230 had a fluid drive. From my understanding, the clutch components would be dramatically different. How do I know which part of the disc is the flywheel side? It doesn't seem like that would affect how the pressure plate cover rubs the bellhousing, but I still want it right. The 4" center of the disc has a 1/4" lip on one side... I currently have that side opposite the flywheel.
A shop manual usually has a cross section of the transmission and clutch. It will show which side of the disc hub is longer and which direction it goes. The disc in my 1931 DB has the longer part facing rearward toward the drive shaft. Yours may be the same....
Tried to post a couple pictures, but it kept "processing" so I assume they must be too big. The parts that are grinding... on the clutch cover, the raised holes alongside (but not including) the nuts that adjust the fingers. The bellhousing is only around the inspection/ access hole. Makes it look like a brake rotor run without pads for awhile, so the grinding was light. I think my best option is to grind that inside surface of the bellhousing. The clutch is tight against the flywheel. Well... perhaps the flywheel bolts aren't tight enough? A few times I hit the starter, it would grind. I assumed that it was because the clutch was catching on the bellhousing and the flywheel was not making a "complete rotation." The teeth on the starter and flywheel are still good. I have limited internet access, so I'll wait another day or two before grinding the bellhousing. I appreciate the help!
Pyro - check out this discussion http://p15-d24.com/topic/40409-replace-218-engine-with-a-230/?hl=+replace++218++with++230. If your 230 has the thicker flange, the flywheel mounts further back, and the clutch mounts further back than normal. The attached link explains it. Could easily be your problem.
That's it, Bob! Crankshaft is slightly longer. I didn't get an accurate measurement, but have taken some metal down on the bell and starter pad. It looks like Don Coatney took quite a bit off from his starter pad... I'm starting at about 1/16" from each and see how that goes. I'm not going to have time to reinstall the bellhousing until Saturday, so if you guys think I should do more than 1/16", let me know! I'll just be turning the engine by hand, I think, to see if anything catches. I figure if I take the same amount from the starter pad, I should be okay there. Thanks, guys!
Oh... I'm pretty sure my 230 is without the fluid drive. I still have the column-shift transmission, but no column. If there's any obvious differences, I don't see any. This 51 engine was pulled from a 54 pickup, so there was likely some swapping in the past. I only have the white(ish) 1937 shop manual. It seems the red/blue one probably goes into better detail, but I don't have that yet. I also have a Clymer manual for 30's-50's Mopars... and that's come in handy sometimes. No substitute for hands-on experience, though.
A bit of grinding on the starter pad and that piece inside the bellhousing seems to be good! Going to put it in the car this week! I appreciate the help very much!
I might have the correct flywheel for you, I had the same issue (but opposite) when I put a 218 in my forklift that had a 230 in it, luckily I caught the difference and used the 218's flywheel, but pretty sure I kept the 230's, I may even have put a new ring gear on it. Yours for shipping if you need it.
There's enough meat on these flywheel s that a machine shop can take from both sides to give the clearance you need Sent from my C6725 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
