Well I've searched with no success. I have a '53 Plymouth I want to split the stock 218 manifold on. I cannot find anyone around that knows how to do this correctly. I live in the PNW but would ship it wherever I need to get it done. Does anyone know anyone who still splits manifolds the correct way? Any info or leads would he great!
Call George Asche in pa......814-354-2621. Under 200 clams the last time I asked if you supply the manifold, and they make twin and triple carb intakes. Rebuilding fluid drive R-10 over drives is another thing they do well.
I split the manifold on my 235 chevy motor and welded in an 1/8th inch plate between the front 3 and back 3 cylinders using a chop saw to make the slit. I used a flange from a 345 IHC manifold and brazed it on to the chevy manifold after cutting the outlet hole with a small zippy wheel......it worked wonderful for about 8 months when the braze job failed. I cleaned all the brass off and had one of the guys at work weld the outlet on with ni-rod...nickel welding rod ...worked great but warped a little with the heat...had to use 2 manifold gaskets to keep it from leaking. My point is..if you have somebody make one up for you, make sure it's welded, not brazed.
Offenhouser made a replacement two single barrel bolt on that may fit it. I have one for my 230 in my '47 Dodge
I bought a set of Langdon headers for my '53. Work and sound great. Had to buy a carb heating kit also and do some plumbing but I'm very happy with them. Current price is $340,00. Link to his site: www.langdonsstovebolt.com
PM hitek on this forum, he is a personal close friend of George Asche,. George can do this work for you for about $500-$700, this would include, splitting the exhaust, with 2 outlets, making a dual intake out of your stock single intake, and making a nice set of stainless carb linkages. If you are going the dual intake route, then you need 2 matching carbs, send George 2 Carter B&B cores and he will send you 2 rebuilt looking like brand new back. If you only want dual exhaust, it would be around $200....good luck
Is this exhaust truly split or does it simply have just two outlets? I'm may be doing this to my Fargo. Also, does anyone have any info on hooking up an Ellis dual intake manifold?
There's a plate welded in the heat riser chamber blocking the front 3 ... Fortunate, since the Ellis is cold, you'll have to either block off your heat riser completely or cut the box out entirely & weld up the ends. Guess it's time for a cost of living increase. I've been splitting Chevvies & Plymouths for $100 or less too long.
George Asche can split the exhaust into 2 halves, for use with intakes like the Ellis. Fortunateson, contact hitek on this forum for more info he is in Ontario, they can make you a true split exhaust with 2 separate headers from your exhaust manifold, for around $200 USD. I will post pics of all of this later on today.
Here is a pic of George and some of the intakes and exhaust. The true split is on the right in front of the milk crate..
Damn, thanks for all the info! Was a nice suprise when I got up this morning. I'm going to call George today and see what we can work out. I've had fentons on a chevy I had but had issues after installing a water heat exchange. I'm really wanting to do a stock split manifold to keep everything working correctly. Dual carbs will be next on the list. I'll be running a 2 barrel until I can save up. Thanks again for the info everyone. Here is my project as I got her!
Here is a close up of a AoK Racing (George Asche/Kingsbury) triple carb intake Cast and tru split exhaust manifolds. This is for the bigger long blocks, but the smaller engine exhaust can be done like this too.
Why on earth would you pay for somebody to split a stock manifold rather than get a set of Fenton headers or a set of tube headers? Let them melt that crap into a Toyota and put something on that might help that poor little plymouth motor make some power.
There is a simple way to do this. Make a square plate to bolt on under the heat riser using the stock bolts. Weld a short pipe and flange onto the plate. Cut a hole into the manifold with a hole saw. If you can cut a steel plate and drill the holes, any muffler shop can weld on a pipe and flange quite cheaply. This makes a bolt on conversion. You may want to weld a piece inside the manifold to separate the 2 halves but do not block it completely. Leave a hole to balance pressure. Or just leave it open.
I'm going to split the manifold because its what I want on my car! Its not about going fast for me. This car is a cruiser and a 50's custom. I did headers before on a chevy and had nothing but problems. A stock manifold that is split will give the sound I want (that a header cannot produce!) and also keep the heat riser that the car needs in cold weather.
That is some pretty work! I had no idea anyone was still doing that commercially. The stock plymouth manifold is a particularly easy one to add a flange to due to its nice,flat bottom.IME if you are going to succesfully weld cast iron it is necessary to pre heat it and cool it slowly over a period of several hours.Prevents warpage and sudden failure .
That really is not the best idea, but can be done. The way George does it, he makes a front outlet, and blocks the front side from the back, allowing a true dual manifold. What you are proposing will work, but a cheap way to do it. Rustyhope sells the bolt on flange, you only need to drill the hole under the heatriser area, and you have a 2nd outlet, as yu have described. I am not putting down your idea, but there is a better way...
I'm definately having George do it. Talked to him this morning. Really nice guy. Thanks for the info again Flat Six Fix, I really appreciate that. Can't wait to get it back in a few weeks and hear that sweet sound!
And the exhaust heat riser has a nasty habit of vapor locking the carb on hot days. Water heat works much better for me.
In regards to the Ellis intake the carbs are mounted 90 degrees to how they mount on a truck (which I find interesting as the intake was apparently designed for trucks). I guess I'll make an adapter so I can continue to use the truck's throttle linkage. But does anyone know about the two openings currently filled by pipe plugs and what is supposed to be there? Sorry about no pics; Google it if you like.
Hey Guy, you really need to PM hitek, he is the resident expert on this engine, the aftermarket components too. Tell em I sent you, he will be able to answer your questions on this...
You got that right, know all about this. I have a heat plate under my carb, electric fuel pumps help a lot too. The biggest problem is so many old manifolds have a stuck heat riser plate, allowing hot exhaust to do it,s thing, or the flap is rusted away. I have had functioning heatrisers, and not much issues with those, unless really wickedly hot in summer. 12 volts helps a lot too, at least in my case...
I'm converting mine to a 12v system and new wiring harness and using an electric fuel pump. It was a great runner before I got it so the things I do should be fine for a driver.
The big pipe threaded plugs are for vacuum to the brake booster, 2 speed axle, etc. Ellis manifolds were exclusive to trucks - no pass. car listings in their catalogs.
I didn't mean to leave you out Frankie47. I called the number you posted and got ahold of George. I thought I was screwed intil I got the info from you. Thanks a bunch!
It's okay....you don't try to help people for a pat on the back....at least you got more detailed info from my pal Flat Six Fix!
Thanks so much for that. I have asked that question a few times with no response. Now I might just hook up a brake booster. Hope I don't forget! LOL