Trying to get the 331 running. new; 12v Coil (uses external resistor) 1.4 ohm ballast resistor 4- pos ignition sw points/condenser reman distributor set up like this; Dwell is set to 27/29 deg when the switch is turned to START, the engine cranks, fires and runs, but as soon as the key is released, the engine quits suddenly. Is the 1.4 ohm resistor correct for the 12v coil? (it's what NAPA got for the coil) The Edelbrock carb doesn't seem to be the problem as the engine quits suddenly...no run-over.
Sounds like your switch is bad. To find out for sure try using a jumper wire from the battery to the ballast resistor and see if stays running....
This happened to me on my 56 caddy. The previous owner had switched two wires on the key ignition switch. Swapped the wires and everything worked like it should have.
Just measure the voltage at the coil in the run position. Should be about 6 volts. If 0 then it's your resistor or switch. At run pos the resistor should have 12 volts on the terminal connected to the switch. If 0 then it's a switch problem. If it's 12 volts check your resistor and make sure it's not open. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I don't think the wire from starter should also go to coil because when the switch goes to run it cuts the power to starter so it will disengage. we need squirrel to chime in on this
I will look into this tomorrow, but it seems like I've tried by-passing the BR before with same results. Yes Might be..... But the switch is NEW The ballast resistor is what NAPA said would work with the 12v coil that was also from NAPA. From what I've read, the 1.4 ohms is correct for 12v, IDK Do you know which wires? No, the coil specifically says "use external resistor"
Actually, if your coil is 12 volts and not 6 volts you don't need the ballast resistor as it will drop the coil to 6 volts. Also if that's the case you probably don't need the wire from the switch starter terminal to the coil, check it but I think the ign term will be closed (on) in both the start and run positions. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This is the answer. I wired mine just like yours (per the instructions) and had the exact same result as you. Car starts just fine (and stays running) with just the ballast resistor circuit.
Remove the red wire from the start position to the coil. If you need the hot start like a lot of vehicles use then it needs to come off the starter solenoid terminal usually marked with an I. What is happening is that with the ignition on it is going to try to run the starter through the ballast resistor and it takes all the voltage away from the ignition or has burned out your new resistor already.
The red wire tied into the coil positive to the start pole on the switch is your problem. When in the ignition position, voltage will be fed not only to the ballast then to your coil but also the starter solenoid which will be trying it's hardest to energize with reduced ballast resistor voltage, thus robbing the coil of the needed voltage during point dwell. If you need a full shot of battery voltage to the coil during cranking you need to get a 4 post stand alone starter solenoid that has a pole for a wire to the coil + marked with an "I". This will isolate that wire during normal running when the key is released from the start position.
Excellent observation. Without studying the schematic, I'd never have thunk that, but you are right. I learned something today. Thanks for the education.
What he said. Geez, I love it when somebody makes a logical diagnosis instead of throwing money at a problem.
Check that the starter solenoid, if it has one, is wired correctly. Some use straight 12 volts for starting, and another terminal to run Just a thought Jim
and all others that pointed this out.... That's got to be it. I noticed that after a few attempts at trying to start, the ballast was very hot. I know it's supposed to heat up, but it seemed too much for the short time the starter was run. I have looked elsewhere on the 'net and found the same reference to the solenoid having an I on it to supply the straight 12v to the coil. So, either I find the "I" on the solenoid or just run it without a full 12v feed at start. Then route a wire from the RUN terminal through the BR, then to the coil. BTW, I measured the ballast and it shows 1.4 ohms. After reading all this, I'm surprised the darn thing didn't get burned out. Thanks so much to all for the information and solving the problem. I'll post a vid when it's running. gatz
That's the first thing I thought after 5 seconds of looking at that schematic. and you worded the answer awesome.
That was the problem. Thanks to all who responded. Here's the diagram from Peterson's Repair Manual that was used to set this up. I failed to realize that there was a relay in the start circuit which would have isolated the 12v feed to the coil and prevented feedback that was trying to actuate the solenoid. 55willys, thanks for making that clear, BTW there wasn't an "I" terminal on the Mopar starter solenoid. A standard or solid-state relay could be added if the full 12v is needed; however, the engine started and ran fine. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ltek38zrmcziv3j/DSCF3617.MOV?dl=0 again, thanks to all those that helped pin-point the problem
Glad to help. I don't deal much with Mopar stuff so am not as familiar with the relay setup. Ford and GM usually have the I terminal for the hot start ignition feed. If you need it, another way is to put a diode in the red starter wire to the coil that will keep the ignition wire from back feeding the starter in the run position. I have done this on some 55 Chevy's. Just make sure that the diode is in the right direction.
I just looked at a wiring diagram for a Dodge truck and it has a wire from the start position that energizes the starter relay and one that goes to the coil side of the ballast resistor. They are both energized when in the start position but when in the run position they are separated. This type of ignition switch has two start terminals so if you are using a universal switch then it won't work. Options to make it work are use a Ford solenoid with the I terminal on it for a hot start, or install a diode in the line that goes to the coil from the start terminal, or use a separate universal SPDT (single pole double throw) relay to go between the start terminal and the coil.
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