Projects Southeast Gassers '55 Chevy Build

pretty kool 55, that's a wild front frame setup! sure would be neat to come up with the history.

 

Ric, I'm figuring at least 12:1, nothing really crazy on the compression.

There's no end to the "well, ya might as well put a this... or ya might as well go ahead and put a that...in it". If you follow that logic long enough, you might as well get a new aluminum block and heads, with latest unobtainium metal this and that, and on and on, until you're good to go in Pro Stock. Ain't doin' it. Call me stupid, I can take it.

I thought a little background on the Hilborn unit would be nice, so I shot Hilborn the numbers off of it and got this back. Sure enough 1962 unit, sold to California Speed and Sport in New Brunswick, New Jersey. Thanks Hilborn!


Did a little poking around on California Speed and Sport and found some neat old photos from back in the day for them (on their FB pages). They're still in business up that way!

Here are some of the old shots



Some of the old race car stuff. Good stuff. Joe Barzda was on it.



I looked on google maps(using street view) and they are still in this old building. Amazing.

 

They even got in on some drag racing stuff too.



Called 'em up and got me a patch they started producing again. Love old history.

Never know what you're gonna find if ya just look.

 

Well at 327ci and the SEG C/G rules you have to weigh 8lbs per ci with a 50lb break for iron heads and a 50lb break for injection...you can weigh as little as 2,516 with you included...or 2,548 for 331ci

 

2548#? What are the other guys with tri 5 cars w/sbc and SEG required roll cages and other gear weighing? If you don't feel you can get down to that weight, then you really need to up cid to a point where you can get down to the min weight allowed for that amount of cid.

 

I have a set of used Camel backs, maybe in better shape than yours?, an ancient set of roller rockers that need a soak in Gibbs brand/Marvels or something similar. 3/8 screw in studs, poly locks, and should have some guide plates. Have an old Isky 505 cast iron roller, an old Engle cast iron roller, probably a rev kit, or part of one, or a Howard 345 steel billet solid lifter cam. I'm thinking the 345 is either the lobe lift, (.518 net lift with 1.5 rockers)or advertised duration, maybe someone here can shed some light on that one? If you want some cheap full length symmetrical full length chassis headers, check out pre 73 Chevy van headers. Shoenfield also makes some economical symmetrical headers which you should be able to run with that engine setback/front suspension setup. If you run late model block huggers like the ones in your engine pic.., YOU ARE DEAD TO ME! I have an early cast iron single point dizzy if you want. I can sell you a brand new set of our 12.5:1 Sportsman Pistons (CP's "Bullet" line) for a very easy on the wallet price. Try to find a 2.64 low Muncie, or 2.64/2.88 low Super T10.

 

There is one 55 in the SEG that is 2,450without the driver...so yeah it would be tough or impossible to be that light.

 

You're right DOM. If I were going for marks in the win column, I'd build the car as absolutely light as possible, then build the motor with the maximum cubes for that weight. But, I'm just gonna build a solid car for now, see if I really enjoy it. Gonna be tough to beat the cicle track game in the fun category. I had a blast doin' that.

 

Ric? 2.64 low Muncie? Lowest gears you can get in a stock Muncie gearset are 2.56 in an early M20 with small countershaft and then 2.52 in the later M20's. M21/M22 both had a 2.20 gearset. Autogear has a good selection of aftermarket gearsets and I personally like there M22Z gearset that is a 2.98 first gear and evenly spread gear drops from there. Pair that with an Autogear supercase and a 3.25ish rear gear and you have fairly solid combo. 2.98 x 3.25 = 9.685, if you were running a M22 it would take 4.33 gears to even get close to that 2.20x4.33=9.526.

 

Cool story, looking forward to the ride. Kind of funny, "bad luck" on the 51, had to settle for an old '55.
I hope all your luck is that bad.

 

I don't argue with the effectiveness of all that work on a Muncie, but before I sprung for it, I'd compare the cost with a Hightower trans. Dogpatch and I rode up there last year and I was very impressed with his work. It's a no compromise trans built from the ground up strictly for racing, designed and built by a man who knows his shit.
But you do have to stay within your own budget, and I know Tim has all sorts of goodies hidden awy in that shop of his already!

 

Yes I looked at the pictures of the Hightower tour after you all went, impressing to say the least and I know that they are holding up to some serious power. My personal budget only allowed for a stock gearset 2.52 Muncie in a stock case. My Dad built a M22Z Muncie in a Autogear supercase for $1400 in parts. But he had a core on hand. The only things we used from the core were the mainshaft, tailshaft, and sidecover. So the core could be pieced back together and sold. Not sure what the hightower unit cost, but I would love to know.

 

I destroyed an autogear m22 wide ratio dropping the clutch with slicks on. Took all the teeth off of first gear. I would stick with the Hightower or Gear Force dog ring clutch assist type boxes if you plan to do any high rpm launches. Plus you'll look like a super star shifter Click click click

 

Yup, going Hightower. With the traction today, with the VHT, you can't afford to not go with a bullet proof clutch, trans, driveshaft, diff., and axles. Quain and the boys have got the combo figured out, and it withstands some punishment. The commitment to the driveline is what had me hesitant to step into this, because I know it's a must.

 

That is disconcerting since I'm running exactly the same transmission. Just curious as to what was the car (weight) and rear-axle ratio. thanks

 

"220, 221, whatever it takes". Guess I had T10 on the brain. My point is, to avoid that long ass 2.20 low Muncie, at all costs! If he builds a 327, its gonna need a shit ton of rear gear, and a parts breaking 50lb. flywheel to get it moving. He already told me he's buy a Hightower, so that's a step right to the top!

 

The Hightower is a nice piece. I got a used jerico dr4 though off racingjunk for 1400$ though. I'm poor and gotta look for good deals on used stuff.

 

I'm also running an old hurst ram rod I got cheap. And a 40lb centerforce flywheel to make sure it don't bog on the line lol.

 

I don't begrudge or look down on anyone buying a used trans, go for it for sure. Personally, I don't have any luck that would let me get away with it. SO, I'm biting the bullet on the front end of this driveline deal. Clutch to wheels needs to be as strong as you can possibly afford, I believe. Power is gonna have to be second for me, for now. Once I'm leaving with a decent reaction time, running straight, shifting right....all that stuff, THEN I'll bump the power up. But that's just me. Different people have different priorities.

 

That's about as smart an approach to getting into a racing class like SEG as I've ever heard, especially on the driveline being as tough as you feel you'll need when you get ready for some serious power.
Tim, you mentioned dirt racing a few posts back, and I'd never heard anything before about that. When, where, and in what sort of cars? I agree, hard to beat dirt for fun, but damn, it's expensive nowadays.

 

Yeah 3dnsouth I agree. I've seen some of the Hightower components and he makes quality stuff. The gears look like jewelry.

 

Oh and by the way I like the 55. It's gonna look mean.

 

I build it stout,
I have no doubt,
Myself I would thank later..

 

Rock on Tim!

 

2500 lbs with me in the car. 3.90 Rear Gears, 2.56 is what the first gear WAS, and 30" tall slicks. Might of been a case of not low enough of a gear. If it had been a 4.56 would it have still broken? I think so. It broke way too easy.

 

Man that thing has a killer stance! Love it!

 

Club brother Ed (@GrumpyEd ) hooked me up with a 9in Ford diff. I can use for a housing. Thanks Ed!

Time to strip that thing down.


Got it down to just a housing. Since this pic, I've ground off what was left of the mounts.

 

Since I need to nail down a rear end width to do axles and all the rear 'stuff', I rounded up some wheels. The ol' standbys....some 15x10s.


Got some Hoosier daddys and got 'em mounted up. Gotta get the white off.

 

Got a few other items rounded up. A Chris Alston cage, a Lakewood, and a shaft hoop.



Meanwhile, rust repairs continue....



Did I mention I still hate rust...

 

Killer build!
Love those disc wheel covers in front. You have more tenacity than me when it comes to rust repair. But your metal work is fantastic.
Best of luck. It will be worth it in the end.