I'm getting ready to rebuild a 1956 265 belly butt0n for my 29 tudor. I resently learned the starter mounted on the bellhousing not the block. below is an adaptor made to use original starter, but think it will interfere with my frame/exhaust. I currently have a newer model sbc. I've heard you can drill the block for a new stylestarter, but I've not talked to anyone that's done it before. or even seen a picture/will block casting support? I looks like it will help? are there other options
What transmission are you planning. If you use a standard the starter will mount as original. If you use an auto you'll need and adapter such as the one shown. I've never drilled the block but have heard of it.
I have always heard it's NOT possible to drill the 55-56, 265 blocks for a block mounted starter; there's just not enough of a "pad' to do so.. But, there was a seller on E-Bay recently who had a 1955, 265, with a later style automatic, and he machined the block in order to add some other machined metal bolted on, and then used a mini starter. There was't enough information in the ad showing how he did it however. A 1957, 265 block does have a larger pad area, and that block is drilled/tapped, just like the 283's starting in 1957 (the ad for the adapter is misleading). This was only done because the "new" Turbo-Drive transmission (an option in 57), was a thin wall aluminum casting transmission case, and used a block mounted starter motor. I know the blanchard ground starter motor adapter plate can be used to "repair" other Chevrolet V-8 blocks that have a broken starter motor pad (a common occurrence), and manual transmission equipped cars with a broken pad can just use any bell-housing with a bell-housing mounted starter, and a 168 tooth flywheel. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I recall having a friend weld a stud to the side of the block on a 265 I put in a T back in the early 70's. I was using an aluminum powerglide is what made this necessary. I don't remember what we did about the inboard bolt??? Tim
Seems to me that if you have to go to such extremes, you might want to rethink the project a little....
I believe that plate puts the starter in the "stock" position when its done.....if that is not enough clearance make your own plate (maybe start with a mid mount motor plate) and use a 153 tooth flywheel and space the starter in and or down further....you could use any starter if your doing your own plate (ford, v drive marine, etc) with a remote solenoid just make sure the gear mesh depth and rotation is right too
i drilled a `59 283 block for the starter many years ago with no problems , not sure about your 265 i guess that doesn't really help you
My '55 will have a '56 265 because I wanted it to have a "no side motor mount" engine in it. It will sport a 4 speed and I have been wondering the same thing asked here about the starter.
You could use a bell housing mount starter provided you have/had an old cast iron housing. They're still around, I just sold one.
with respect, I don't think that is that extreme, I want to use the block for the same reason as mopacltd; I really like it has no side motor mounts cast to block. (and I have a hurst style front mount already) I'd been searching the net and found these early GM 265/283 adaptor to Powerglide transmissions. it has it's own special flexplate etc.... back to squirrel; i'm now considering an older powerglide
That is what I was hinting at...you seemed to be on the right track for the engine (very traditional), but not the trans. Now you're thinking about doing the transmission the old way. I would want to run a manual behind that engine, I think...but I know some guys can't or won't do that for whatever reason. btw when you're shopping for Powerglides, beware that you need a V8 transmission, with the starter notch in the bellhousing down where it will match that adapter you pictured. The 6 cyl transmission has the starter notch up higher, and won't work on a V8, and you can't just swap them out, since the transmission is built around the bellhousing (it supports the pump and valve body, for example)
350's are bellybuttons. 265's, (and 283's), are Cool. Of course, 265's do have a few special differences, all there own......Rocker arm oiling, and head bolts if using early heads with staggered valve cover bolts. Here's a link to an excellent thread with lots of info on 265's. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lets-build-a-265-chevy-v8.416175/
many thanks for info, i'm searching around for one now to see what I find.... I've have a manual in my 46 (3 on the column) and 52 (4 speed), just think I want an automatic for this one.
There is one other option, and it's right in there with "traditional". Find a complete, dual range, cast iron Hydra-Matic from a 55-64 V-8 Chevrolet truck. The famed "Hydro". Cast iron Powerglides just don't really last with any kind of "spirited" driving. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Yeah Butch, I was just thinking that as I read this thread. I've seen several complete Chevy truck 4 spd hydro set-ups on CL in the last year or so. I'm thinking that it would make a great transmission in an early style hot rod. They may be somewhat expensive to rebuild these days but I'll bet a cast iron PG ain't much cheaper and the Hydro is a whole lot tougher.
On the other hand F3, if you have access to a later bare block with starter mounting holes, why not make a pattern out of poster board or something using the oil pan bolt pattern or the main bolts as reference. Then place the pattern on the 265 block and find out for yourself if there is sufficient surface to drill the starter mounting holes. If there is enough meat, make a drill pattern out of sheet aluminum and transfer the holes. Then you can use what ever trans you choose.
Back in the late '50's a friend had a '41 coupe with a 265 and a 4 speed hydro. Coolest car in town. The hydro would definitely be my choice.
My old '56 Chevy had the original 265 with a TH350. there was room on the block for one starter hole that I drilled and tapped. Then I fabbed an L bracket mounted to the side of the block for the outer starter bolt. I used a lightweight mini starter. Worked perfectly. Still like that as far as I know...