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Technical 265 chevy with automatic starter question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by '52 F-3, Feb 6, 2016.

  1. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 912

    '52 F-3
    Member

    I'm getting ready to rebuild a 1956 265 belly butt0n for my 29 tudor. I resently learned the starter mounted on the bellhousing not the block. below is an adaptor made to use original starter, but think it will interfere with my frame/exhaust. I currently have a newer model sbc.

    I've heard you can drill the block for a new stylestarter, but I've not talked to anyone that's done it before. or even seen a picture/will block casting support? I looks like it will
    help? are there other options

    upload_2016-2-6_6-50-2.png
     

    Attached Files:

  2. What transmission are you planning. If you use a standard the starter will mount as original. If you use an auto you'll need and adapter such as the one shown. I've never drilled the block but have heard of it.
     
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  3. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I have always heard it's NOT possible to drill the 55-56, 265 blocks for a block mounted starter; there's just not enough of a "pad' to do so.. But, there was a seller on E-Bay recently who had a 1955, 265, with a later style automatic, and he machined the block in order to add some other machined metal bolted on, and then used a mini starter. There was't enough information in the ad showing how he did it however. A 1957, 265 block does have a larger pad area, and that block is drilled/tapped, just like the 283's starting in 1957 (the ad for the adapter is misleading). This was only done because the "new" Turbo-Drive transmission (an option in 57), was a thin wall aluminum casting transmission case, and used a block mounted starter motor. I know the blanchard ground starter motor adapter plate can be used to "repair" other Chevrolet V-8 blocks that have a broken starter motor pad (a common occurrence), and manual transmission equipped cars with a broken pad can just use any bell-housing with a bell-housing mounted starter, and a 168 tooth flywheel. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    '52 F-3 and LOU WELLS like this.
  4. I recall having a friend weld a stud to the side of the block on a 265 I put in a T back in the early 70's. I was using an aluminum powerglide is what made this necessary. I don't remember what we did about the inboard bolt??? Tim
     
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  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    Seems to me that if you have to go to such extremes, you might want to rethink the project a little....
     
    scrap metal 48 and '52 F-3 like this.
  6. ...like get another block....
     
  7. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    I believe that plate puts the starter in the "stock" position when its done.....if that is not enough clearance make your own plate (maybe start with a mid mount motor plate) and use a 153 tooth flywheel and space the starter in and or down further....you could use any starter if your doing your own plate (ford, v drive marine, etc) with a remote solenoid just make sure the gear mesh depth and rotation is right too
     
  8. i drilled a `59 283 block for the starter many years ago with no problems , not sure about your 265

    i guess that doesn't really help you
     
  9. mopacltd
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,044

    mopacltd
    Member

    My '55 will have a '56 265 because I wanted it to have a "no side motor mount" engine in it. It will sport a 4 speed and I have been wondering the same thing asked here about the starter.
     
  10. You could use a bell housing mount starter provided you have/had an old cast iron housing. They're still around, I just sold one.
     
  11. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 912

    '52 F-3
    Member

    with respect, I don't think that is that extreme, I want to use the block for the same reason as mopacltd; I really like it has no side motor mounts cast to block. (and I have a hurst style front mount already)

    I'd been searching the net and found these early GM 265/283 adaptor to Powerglide transmissions. it has it's own special flexplate etc....

    back to squirrel; i'm now considering an older powerglide :)

    [​IMG]
     
  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    That is what I was hinting at...you seemed to be on the right track for the engine (very traditional), but not the trans. Now you're thinking about doing the transmission the old way. I would want to run a manual behind that engine, I think...but I know some guys can't or won't do that for whatever reason.

    btw when you're shopping for Powerglides, beware that you need a V8 transmission, with the starter notch in the bellhousing down where it will match that adapter you pictured. The 6 cyl transmission has the starter notch up higher, and won't work on a V8, and you can't just swap them out, since the transmission is built around the bellhousing (it supports the pump and valve body, for example)
     
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  13. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,713

    Torkwrench
    Member

    Last edited: Feb 6, 2016
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  14. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 912

    '52 F-3
    Member

    many thanks for info, i'm searching around for one now to see what I find....
    I've have a manual in my 46 (3 on the column) and 52 (4 speed), just think I want an automatic for this one.
     
  15. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    There is one other option, and it's right in there with "traditional". Find a complete, dual range, cast iron Hydra-Matic from a 55-64 V-8 Chevrolet truck. The famed "Hydro". Cast iron Powerglides just don't really last with any kind of "spirited" driving. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  16. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,190

    bchctybob
    Member

    Yeah Butch, I was just thinking that as I read this thread. I've seen several complete Chevy truck 4 spd hydro set-ups on CL in the last year or so. I'm thinking that it would make a great transmission in an early style hot rod. They may be somewhat expensive to rebuild these days but I'll bet a cast iron PG ain't much cheaper and the Hydro is a whole lot tougher.
     
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  17. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,190

    bchctybob
    Member

    On the other hand F3, if you have access to a later bare block with starter mounting holes, why not make a pattern out of poster board or something using the oil pan bolt pattern or the main bolts as reference. Then place the pattern on the 265 block and find out for yourself if there is sufficient surface to drill the starter mounting holes. If there is enough meat, make a drill pattern out of sheet aluminum and transfer the holes. Then you can use what ever trans you choose.
     
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  18. Back in the late '50's a friend had a '41 coupe with a 265 and a 4 speed hydro. Coolest car in town. The hydro would definitely be my choice.
     
  19. e z i
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 596

    e z i
    Member

    My old '56 Chevy had the original 265 with a TH350. there was room on the block for one starter hole that I drilled and tapped. Then I fabbed an L bracket mounted to the side of the block for the outer starter bolt. I used a lightweight mini starter. Worked perfectly. Still like that as far as I know...
     

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