Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Excellent work. Lots of tricks in the fine details.

Thanks Dennis.

Mart.

 

Dennis.....
I've seen some(so-called) professinally built engines that weren't as clean as you got these trans parts, I come from the same school of thought as you on this subject.
How about sharing your process for cleaning your parts.
Outstanding photos and text on your build steps throughout this project.

 

Thank you! My methods are really nothing special. Parts cleaning solvent, scrapers, brass wire brushes and lots of determination. It usually takes in the neighborhood of half a work day to fully clean a set of transmission parts, not counting the case itself.

 

Well done Dennis.

 

Outstanding Tech. This build sets the standard.

 

Tech. of the day/week/ month/year!

 

Thanks for the outstanding tech you share. I'm sure I'm not alone in appreciation for the time you take to do this.

 

I've come to the realization that you are an anal freak like @gwhite ... Do you iron your underwear too?

 

I probably would if I actually wore any...

 

Now that is more technical information than we need?

 

Larry opened the door.

 

Spent the last two days reading your thread and all I can say is wow... Great build. No reason to explain yourself, your truck and build it the way you want to and if any body dosent like it simply quit fallowing it, but as I can say and I am sure others its a great build. I have always heard use the synchronizer detent set that is one piece instead of the separate ball and spring. any reason for using that kind? On the '32 rear mount there is the round rear bearing retainer the rubber mount and that round ring with the 6 notches, is that round ring re-poped? I bought what I thought was a complete '32 rear mount but after reading your thread I am missing that.

 

Thanks!

I have used this version of syncronizer many times and I don't know of any reason not to. As long as the detent springs are in good condition this version functions well. In this case I used it because it's what I had. There are two other late syncronizer versions which I also would have happily used if one of them is what I had.

The large round ring for the '32-'36 bearing retainer is not reproduced so you'll have to track down an original and may have to buy another retainer/mount set to get it. Most people won't sell the ring separate and finding one loose takes some luck!

 

Tech of the year! Great job, Dennis.

 

I think Vern Tardel used to make the flat backer for the trans mount. Maybe he still does?

 

Tardel's web site shows a rear support plate 16.00?

 

Van pelts has them. I bought one the other day.

 

That's really good to know. I don't think we've ever done business with him so I'm not aware of what he offers.

 

Not sure if he still does, but Mac van pelt a year or so back had a good stock of older USA made brass synchros.. I bought twenty of them , nearly used them up already on customer builds.. Should ask him if he has more!


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Guess ill be ordering that, thanks for the replies.

 

TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 6



Shifter Tower - Part 1



When putting together an early Ford 3-speed top shift transmission using 1939 to 1948 gears this is the shifter tower that will need to be used. It is commonly called an “81A” (for its part number prefix) or a “double detent” tower. The “double detent” refers to the fact that it has a plug with detent ball and spring on each side of the tower while earlier versions had a plug and detent ball and spring on one side only.



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The “81A” shifter tower was introduced in 1938. However, it was not until 1939 (and only on Deluxe models and Mercury's) that Ford started using the improved syncronizer design with blocker rings. The improved syncronizer required a larger shifting fork. Since this tower was also used in 1938 and on 1939 Standard models with the older style syncronizer not all “81A” towers will have the larger fork. Shown below is the small fork on the left and the larger fork on the right.



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The larger fork needed for the improved 1939 to 1948 syncronizer will have a “91-A” part number on it. The fork can be replaced if the "81-A" tower does not have it but finding one loose is not easy!



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Here is the “81-A” shift tower that I will be using. It has several thick layers of old paint but the inside and all of the components are in excellent condition. Before getting started I inspect the casting very closely for cracks or other fatal damage.



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Disassembly starts by removing the slotted detent plugs on either side. Often times they will not come right out and this case was no exception. The slots are pretty shallow so it's hard for a screw driver to get a good bite. In the case of my tower both plugs had mangled slots from a previous person trying to get it apart so a screw driver was completely ineffective. It was necessary to spot weld a 1/4” nut to each plug so a box wrench could be used. Doing this got the plugs right out. The heat from welding probably also helps loosen up junk in the plug threads.



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With the plugs removed there will be a spring and ball under each. Note that one of the springs is longer than the other. The longer spring is correct and should be roughly 1-3/8” free length. The shorter spring will be replaced with one that is correct. It is very common to find miss-matched or broken springs as people have worked on these over the years. Many times people will install stiffer springs to help hold the transmission in gear better.



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Next the three shift rail end plugs are removed.



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Then the thru pins holding the shifter forks to the rails are removed. The end of the pins are hollow and flared. They can be easily driven out using a small punch that fits inside the ends. Once the pins are removed the rails are slid out of the end of the tower.



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The removed rails, forks and pins look like this.



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With the rails removed this lock-out detent can be removed from the middle of the detend bore where it is normally between the shafts. When one of the rails is moved fore or aft to change gears this piece locks the other rail so the transmission can't accidentally end up in two gears at the same time.



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At this point the tower is completely diss-assembled and will look like this.



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After the tower is bead blasted but before final washing I drill a No.3 hole and tap it to 1/4-28 thread on the end of the tower featuring only one plug. The hole is centered to the shifter rail behind it. This will be for a second gear positive stop bolt. The casting will also need a small relief in the radiused corner under the hole so that a 1/4” bolt head and lock washer will seat flush.



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After thoroughly cleaning and preparing all of the other shifter parts the damaged detent plugs will need to be repaired by removing the tacked on 1/4” nuts, filling all of the damaged area with weld and re-cutting the screw driver slots. As luck would have it the original slots are exactly the same width as a die grinder cut off wheel so I carefully use that to cut new slots.



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TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY - PART 7

Shifter Tower - Part 2

To start assembly the shorter shift rail, large fork and longer of the two pins are put into place. The side of the rail with 3 slots must face towards the outside of the tower.



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I clamp a piece of 3/4” round bar into the bench vise and set the tower down over it with the bar coming through the shifter handle hole and bearing against the under side of the fork retainer pin as a buck. The hollow end of the pin is then mushroomed so that the pin can't come out.



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The shift rail is positioned so that the single slot on the inside lines up in the center of the detent cross bore.



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The lock-out detent is coated in engine oil and then slide down the bore until it contacts the slot in the rail.



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The longer shift rail, smaller fork and shorter retainer pin are installed and positioned as shown. Again, the three detent slots in the rail should face to the outside.



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Both shift rails are aligned so that the center slot of the three detent slots are aligned with the detent cross bore. The balls are coated in engine oil and dropped into the bores until they contact the middle slots on the rails. The springs and plugs are installed.



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The shifter rail end plugs are installed. These plugs are slightly dished and the concave side faces in. If the plugs are not a tight fit they can be flattened a touch to make them tighter in their holes.



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It sometimes happens that when selecting second gear the shifter rail and fork can over-travel and the transmission will become stuck firmly in second gear. As a preventative measure I install a positive stop bolt for the shifter rail so that never happens.The shifter rail and fork behind the hole I drilled and threaded are then put into the second gear position by sliding the rail and for towards the threaded hole. Two detent notches should be visible when in the correct position. A 1/4-28 x 3/4” Grade 8 bolt is then threaded into the hole until it just bottoms on the end of the shift rail. The bolt is backed off until just a sliver of clearance is visible between it and the rail.



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With the lock washer against the tower the distance between it and the bolt head is measured and in this case was 1/8”. That much will need to be removed from the end of the bolt to make it the correct length.



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After the bolt is cut to the correct length it is installed tight.



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At this point the shifter tower is complete. The shafts should be slid back and forth to ensure that it shifts correctly.



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The mating surface of the tower is masked as well as the threads for the shifter cap.



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Instead of having to cover the shifter forks in wads of tape I find it much easier to cut a rectangle hole in an old box that the forks can fit down into.



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And 4 coats of antique Ford engine green.



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TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 8



Final Assembly



With the transmission, shifter tower and small parts painted they can all be brought together. Here are some final “beauty shots” of the finished transmission assembly.



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The 1932 Ford shifter tower has threaded hand brake handle mounting bosses as part of the casting. When using a 1933 to 1939 shifter tower in a '32 it is necessary to use an adapter bracket to mount the handle. This hand brake handle mounting bracket is one of our products and an original design that we have been producing for about 15 years now. Unlike other handle mounts on the market this precision bracket mounts the handle in exactly the same position as '32 shifter tower, relative to the transmission. Other mounts are typically made from angle stock and mount the handle too low.



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The 1932 shifter tower also had a provision for mounting the mechanical stop light switch. It used the front tower bolt and had a smaller 1/4-20” hole tapped for the rear attaching screw. Another one of our products is this adapter plate which allows an original '32 stop light switch to be mounted to a 1933 to 1939 shifter tower. Not shown, but the mounting plate also comes as a kit with necessary hardware and linkage to connect the switch to the brake pedal.



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With the transmission now complete I'll be turning my attention to stripping the layers of old paint off of the engine and getting it in fresh matching antique Ford green engine paint. My goal is to have the accomplished by the end of the up coming week. Once the engine is painted it and the transmission can be attached and set into the truck permanently. Stay tuned!

 

I'm now confident enough to tear into my 39. Big thanks !

 

Excellent work, Dennis.

Thanks for this.

Mart.

 

Fantastic coverage of the build.. Love it!

 

What an incredible thread! i just found/read this from the beginning and I have to agree with many others that you should consider making a book of this. Thank you for taking the time for those of us less experienced.

 

X2 --I would be in for a copy. Excelent refrence material. Thanks for taking the time to continue to post ur progress. Bill

 

Thank you for the really kind words, guys!

UPDATE

I spent all of my lunch breaks last week and a couple hours of Saturday getting this old motor stripped, prepped and painted. I'm really glad that job is done! So here's my Chevy engine painted Ford engine green. The intake manifold has been installed permanently.

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I also mocked up the water pump riser, pump and generator again so that I can fabricate a rear support for the generator. I took a 4.5" piece of 5/8" rod, drilled each end 1.25" deep and tapped for 3/8" - 16 threads. Next I will make a leg that will be welded to the underside of the bar and attach to the second intake bolt.

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More to come throughout the week...

 

Motor looks good.