Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

Well not only has the engine fired up but the builder is probably fired up get her done too!

 

Yeah, and relieved at the same time. I have to adjust ride height in the rear, then I can take it around the block and check for gremlins that may be still hiding.

 

I think I here it running here in Indiana, or I'm just daydreaming.

 

Sure did sound sweet. Maybe I can get my son and his I phone to do a short video.

 

Hell yeah you can!

 

Gotta love it when they roar to life. Fix that water pump leak, throw a milk crate on the floor and blast that thing down the street!

 

Soon, I hope Jason. I got to set a few things; timing and some carb adjustments. I had a vacuum gage hooked to the carb base fitting and with the timing @13 deg btdc it was idling at about 950 rpm and 9 or 10 inches of vacuum. The temp got up to 190 and the 4# cap was passing a little water out the overflow.
I think I need a newer radiator. It's an original that's been recored. The radiator shop pressure checked it and the top tank balloons at about 5 psi. Oh well, it was worth a shot.

 

Man its looking like you are going to be getting in on the 40 Ford 75th anniversary fun ! Wish I was that close to done.

 

I had the same problem with my 51 chevy, old radiator and the tanks just couldn't handle the pressure. Mine blew the tank part off in the drive thru at Sonic! so much for pushing it with a 15# cap!!.... I notice that you have 4 barrel on the motor now instead of the 4X2 set up from earlier pics. Let me know if you want to find the 4X2 setup a new home. I have a place for it right now.....

 

I know what you mean. I figure, if the car is running, it's a car that needs paint instead of a project.

The 4X2 setup is for after the engine is broke in and gremlins are exorcised. If things go well I'll install the manafre next spring.

 

4x2 is the last one on my list got a 6x2 a 3x2 and a cross ram. Cant wait to see it on the coupe!

 

This is not the initial fire, but after some timing and carb adjustment with the choke locked open I have to work the throttle to keep it running until it warms up a little. The coolant leaks are repaired.

 

That thing sounds awesome. Never put exhaust on it!

 

"Yeah". That says it all. Pure music at idle.

 

To quote the vid, "Ehh,Yeah"

 

love that sound

 

That was my sons only comment and I just smiled.

 

Just got all my stuff from speedway to try and build the headers like yours. There is a. Picture of them on my fridge next to my kids drawings...

 

Wow, a month has gone by since I was here. I mentioned setting the rear ride height in post #82 and I looked at lowering blocks; while I was doing that I noted that the rear end needed to move forward about 1/4" to perfectly center the wheels in the fender opening. No big deal; I can make what ever I need.
I remember those three words " no big deal" clearly. It started with the drive shaft. since I wanted to move the rear wheels forward, I looked at the clearance I had for slip yoke movement at the back of the trans. I had about 5/8" and removing 1/4" meant shortening the driveshaft again. Disappointing, but I've done it twice; I can do it again.
After shortening the shaft and tacking the yoke I thought I better drop and move the rear end before finish welding the yoke... just to make sure.
Oooh no. I checked the universal operating angles and I have an opportunity! After talking to V8Bob, he gave me some info from the Spicer website on universal and driveshaft specs and limits. After digesting that info and studying my setup for several days, I decided that I was " up to my ass in alligators while trying to drain the swamp ". The front u-joint angle was 5.5 deg and the rear was about
3.5 deg.
If you want to see the Spicer info, click on the pdf. More later.

 

Wow, a month has gone by since I was here. I mentioned setting the rear ride height in post #82 and I looked at lowering blocks; while I was doing that I noted that the rear end needed to move forward about 1/4" to perfectly center the wheels in the fender opening. No big deal; I can make what ever I need.
I remember those three words " no big deal" clearly. It started with the drive shaft. since I wanted to move the rear wheels forward, I looked at the clearance I had for slip yoke movement at the back of the trans. I had about 5/8" and removing 1/4" meant shortening the driveshaft again. Disappointing, but I've done it twice; I can do it again.
After shortening the shaft and tacking the yoke I thought I better drop and move the rear end before finish welding the yoke... just to make sure.
Oooh no. I checked the universal operating angles and I have an opportunity! After talking to V8Bob, he gave me some info from the Spicer website on universal and driveshaft specs and limits. After digesting that info and studying my setup for several days, I decided that I was " up to my ass in alligators while trying to drain the swamp ". The front u-joint angle was 5.5 deg and the rear was about
3.5 deg.
If you want to see the Spicer info, click on the pdf. More later.[/QUOTE]

Been there and done that, but just like you said, now you have your best opportunity to correct it, even though it is a bit of work. Sometimes makes one wonder why you cared about perfection in having the rear wheel centered in the wheel well, doesn't it?

 

I wondered if I was over-thinking the centering issue' but in the end I felt that I needed the operating angles of the u-joints within .5 deg. of each other and 3 deg. or less if possible. Those are the numbers recommended by Spicer to eliminate or at least minimize the chance of vibration in the driveshaft.
Lunch is over, back to work.

 

Good to hear from you again Joel.That is a good article on drive shaft installation, thanks for sharing it.

 

The engine sounds great !! Now drive that sucker

 

I see a Big smile, Make your own lowering blocks, Square tubing, put holes where you want.

 

That's exactly what I did for the blocks and it dropped the rear of the car where I wanted. However, the operating angles for the u-joints got worse and after some head scratching and input from fellow club members, I had to raise the rear of the trans. I made a 3/8 " thick shim and installed it under the mount. It was better but not enough and the bell housing was almost against the firewall. I had to lower the engine to gain a flatter angle, so I stepped the engine mounts 1/4".
Pix of the mounts installed and the pan clearance.

 

More pix of the rear end, lowering blocks, etc. and all ready to tack the spring pads to the axle.

 

Here it is; the rear end is done , in , bolted down with shocks, sway bar and the brake lines installed. I broke my little Fuji digital camera and lost some of the pix. Here is what I saved.

The next pix are of the modifications to the front crossmember for increased fuel pump clearance . I had dropped the front of the engine to improve the u-joint operating angles. ( post 205)


I cut the clearance wider, the depth is ok. This is the patch

The patch is tacked in place.With some welding and a little paint, I can put the fuel pump back in.
The last part to modify is the V brace for the front fender. When I lowered the engine the balancer Hits the cross brace on it. I have to move the cross bar down about 3/8 in.
I'll take more pictures when it's done.
I'm almost back ,so I ordered a new radiator from CAR in New Jersey and I'm having a new driveshaft made locally. While I'm waiting for the radiator, I'm going to bleed the brakes and do some paint touch up from my recent work. I should be going around the block in the next 2 weeks.

 

Nice workmanship!

 

looking good-enjoying your progress

 

Thanks for the report Joel! Looks like we might make that first drive around the block about the same time.