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My new project 1951 Buick

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by aw1950, Oct 18, 2010.

  1. I am in need of some help . If anyone is building a 53 Buick and is watching my thread I would appreciate it if you could take some pictures of your hood hinges . How they attach , where they attach , how do they bolt to the hood , Also the front latch mechanism and bolt or pin some call them . As much detail as possible please . I am contemplating converting my hood from left and right opening to conventional operation . If you can help , thanks in advance . Andy..
     
  2. Here ya go Simon . A little more info on building your wheel arch and frame mount on your Buick . I welded a1/2" nut to a washer and welded the washer , nut down into the frame . Same size diameter pipe welded to the washer . This fits up into the body mount . The body mount is a boat dock bumper and has a 1/2" diameter hole predrilled and has a recess area of 1 5/ 8" . I then made some patch panels to fix the rust issues on the wheel house . 1/8" plate 4x4 drilled 1/2" hole in center . Made a new sub frame mount for under the piece of trunk floor . That's about a day of 6.5 hours will get ya . It doesn't seem like much but it takes a while to do this stuff . The last picture is of the rear frame and boxing plating to tie the frame all back together back here .
     

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    Last edited: Jul 24, 2015
    LONG likes this.
  3. Been at it since July 24th . Trunk is all tied in . I opted to make a left and right side panel . I will cut out the access panel that you see identified by the marker outline . This will give me access to bolt the taillights in and install the drain tube that allows the water to escape at the back of the frenched taillights . The grey you see is seam sealer . Tip for anyone following along . Buy a can of brush on seam sealer . Get a separate container , old pint can from a previous paintjob what ever . Scoop some out , reduce it with reducer say 30% by volume and take a hardware purchased paint stirrer and attach it to a drill . Whip it up until it is runny but not to as it wont hold any kind of shape . You will know when you get it right . If it's to runny add more to the mixture and whip it some more . Vise versa if it's to clumpy add more reducer . Pour it over your joints . It self levels and has a more factory appearance to it . You see in my pictures I have not yet painted over the sealer areas as I want the reducer to be able to evaporate before top coating it . 12 - 15 hours to fully flash off and then your good to go . It will flow into voids just like factory and will seal things up nice and water tight . Put the POR 15 to it , and your ready for Dynamat or whatever your want to do with your floor . Me I think I am going to go with some truck bed spray liner . It can take some wear and tear . Of course it will get all covered with carpet anyways .

    Andy...
     

    Attached Files:

    hacknwhack likes this.
  4. Thanks for the tip on the seam sealer Andy, I'll remember that when I replace the floors in my Ranchero.
     
    aw1950 likes this.
  5. Just a little update keeping things rolling along . Another coat of Epoxy and the visible soak in at the bodywork . I will let this kick for a day or two , cut it open and lay on some high build . I have a quart of Evercoat acrylic primer surfacer in red oxide that I will use for the next blocking phase . Maybe some pictures of that by next weekend . Pictures are similar to a few pages back but rest assured that another 50 hours was spent on things that you don't see . Gapping the trunk to catwalk area . Gapping the passenger door opening , reworking the lower panel under the bottom leading edge of the trunk lid , rust repair to the rain gutter channel at the catwalk area which involved the removal of 20" of rain gutter and fabricating a new channel , just to name a few areas . Now that I think of it 50 hours is probably quite a conservative estimate . Pictures to follow. Andy..
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2015
    LONG and hacknwhack like this.
  6. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,005

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Roll on, buddy!
     
    aw1950 likes this.
  7. Looking good Andy!
     
    aw1950 likes this.
  8. hacknwhack
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 481

    hacknwhack
    Member
    from mass

    Another milestone Andy
    Every coat of primer is practice for an awsome paintjob. Go man go

    If your at the paint jobber
    Ask about the 3m powder guide coat. Cost a little more up front . But doesnt soak deep into the primer like laquer spray. May save you money
    In the end. Seeing you will be sanding less primer off when blocking. No wait time either.
    One little bucket cost the same as 3 s.e.m. spraycans
    But will do what 10 cans do
     
    aw1950 likes this.
  9. These pictures give a better idea of the car without the distraction of the primer soak . I am starting to get a little more excited . If all continues to go well , next summer will be a lot of shakedown runs . Fix what needs fixing and then onto paint that winter . Andy..
     

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  10. Finally got the car pushed outside . What a difference it makes other than the shots in the shop. Still a little rear rake and the full round flowing lines are starting to take shape . What do ya do when your in a build ? Start to blow it apart again . This time to hook up some steering so bay moves are easier . I will be doing an off topic paintjob in the next week or so , so I have to switch the Buick to the other bay . have a look . I am pleased with what I see so far ! Andy..
     

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    BradinNC and hacknwhack like this.
  11. Looking real good Andy!
     
  12. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,179

    Peanut 1959
    Member

  13. LONG
    Joined: Aug 20, 2011
    Posts: 292

    LONG
    Member

    this is still one of my favorite builds on here. inspiring.
     
  14. SimonsaysGo
    Joined: Nov 1, 2012
    Posts: 10

    SimonsaysGo
    Member
    from SW Ohio

    Nice work thanks for sharing!!
     
  15. Thanks to all you guys for the positive feedback . All the work is starting to pay off once you can stand back and get a good look !
     
  16. Looks great dude! Did u ever get pictures of the hood hinges? I can take pictures of my 52 if that will help you at all? Let me know - nick
     
  17. Thanks for the offer man . Yes I did get pictures from a guy and the work that I needed to get it done would be time consuming . I have other irons in the fire I need to tackle . That said , I am kicking around a forward tilt hood as well . Work , yes , as much as conventional ? I don't think so . But you never know I may end up with the stock configuration as well . Thanks for the positive feedback . Stay at yours and it will get done , it's only time , money etc. etc. etc. LOL !
     
  18. Haha yeah I feel ya! I'm plugging away at it! If you need any other reference pics let me know! I'm one to talk, I could only imagine the amount of hours in your car already!
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2015
    aw1950 likes this.
  19. No man not at the moment . The car has not been touched since the end of August . New job , constructing a shed , off topic paint jobs , general life stuff . Putting my summer car away this weekend . I have to work on my plow truck for this winter then onto the Buick for the long winter season . Don't give up on me there will be more coming you'll see . Later , Andy..
     
  20. LONG
    Joined: Aug 20, 2011
    Posts: 292

    LONG
    Member

    just scanned though your frame swap again. getting me thinking of using my 1980 4door malibu frame. should be similar to Padorey's monty.
     
  21. Baldies
    Joined: Nov 16, 2015
    Posts: 133

    Baldies

    New member, but old man. Found your thread and went through the whole thing. Great work. It was great watching you transform a bucket or rust into such a nice car. I liked that you didn't go with the buick back lite. I never did like the way that side lites would point down as the window was laid down. I wonder how raising the bottem line so it would follow the belt line would work. Just my 2 cents. Any way, great work and a great out come.
     
  22. Get at it , I think Padorey said he added 5.5 inches to his frame as well . Keep in mind I moved my motor mounts back 5.5 inches as well to save having to have a driveshaft made . I believe I posted pictures at that time when I did it . There is still lots of clearance at the firewall if you have to pull the distributor after moving the mounts back. Later man , Andy...
     
  23. Thanks Baldie for the comments . Bucket O rust it was . I had times when I didn't know if I was going to be able to pull it off but so far so good . Talking about the Buick back glass , I wish I could find the back window section from a 57 Buick . I like that look of the sail panel glass and the wide divider . As far as my beltline nickel I am running the stock but I am using the end spears from a 51 Chevrolet Sedan Torpedoback . They will end at about the halfway point of the trunk lid with a slight turn down to them . That will cut the car some with that nickel . Thanks for having a look at my thread . Keep watching as after Christmas there should be a lot more activity happening . Later , Andy....
     
  24. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,254

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Really impressive job Andy!
    How is it possible I missed this thread?
    Being a friend of Fitzee and Koolkemp, I just can't understand it!!! :D
    I'm a member of the Rustworm Society myself, so I know just how much effort it took to get to this point and you pulled it off with STYLE.
    Looking forward to seeing it at Moncton someday.
     
  25. Thanks Hackerbilt . I was aiming for summer 2016 as a shakedown summer and that might have been attainable if I had of been able to keep working at the pace I was in July and August . That abruptly ended at the end of August sooooo 2017 is the plan now . 2017 Nationals in epoxy but at least driveable !! That's the plan anyways !!!!
    Andy...
     
  26. Just an update guys . I am still out there . Plugging away at the last of the rust repair .No pictures just the same old same old . Drivers door underside bottom sill area , bottom 3" of the outer skin . That feels good to say , the last of the rust repair . Didn't think I would ever get there ! After that will be pull the engine , get at the fire wall , prime the whole body . Then move on from there !
     
  27. Well after 2.5 months I finally have something to show for my effort . The driver side is starting to pull together as well . This is 5 minutes after I shot a coat of epoxy primer . Shiny cause it's wet . Good chance to see how straight that long quarter panel is . It looks good to me . Lots of block sanding ahead once I get a good coat of high build on it . Still have the front fender to work on . After that its then time for some more fabrication , IE seat risers , steering , mounting brake booster and master cylinder , pull engine , get onto the firewall geesz and that's just to name a few . I am sure you guys know what I am talking about . These lists are endless it seems . Have a look ! Later , Andy..
     

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    hacknwhack and BradinNC like this.
  28. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,005

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Man I love this project!
     
    aw1950 likes this.
  29. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,970

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    Looks good!
    I havent check this build for a while.Good to see you back at it!
     
    aw1950 likes this.

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