Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects My 47 Plymouth Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by CM3112, May 11, 2015.

  1. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX


    It is fun for sure. You are correct with the caliper bleed plugs. I swapped them not too long ago.
     
  2. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    That is sweet!! How much did you chop it?
     
  3. parkers39
    Joined: May 30, 2011
    Posts: 7

    parkers39
    Member

    It's been chopped about 6 out font 6 and half back roofline shortened 5 and half and hardtopped. Thanks man
     
  4. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,772

    41 C28
    Member

    Looks good. Are you going to run a sway bar or pan hard bar on the rear?
     
  5. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    I hadn't really put much thought into really. I am upgrading the front to a larger sway bar but I am not sure a rear bar would do much for me with the stock drive train.

    I will have to research the idea though.
     
  6. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,772

    41 C28
    Member


    The reason I ask is if I corner too hard in my Dodge the tires will rub on the inside. The car is bagged with 2 leafs on each spring and lowering blocks.
     
  7. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I had wider than stock tires & wheels & would rub too easily.

    I put the swaybar from the back of a '74 T-bird on my rear axle, which helped a lot.
     
  8. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX


    I am using 15x4 rims and will end up with 6.70-15's. I like the rear seat bar idea for sure. Thanks for the heads up guys!
     
  9. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I think I had 15x5's with 7.50's on the back. I'll have to measure. I just cut five 25 year old tires off my rusty old set of rims & they're sitting out by the garage now.

    Personally I prefer coil springs on a car, and I will probably rebuild mine with coils, three or four links, and a panhard.
     
  10. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    OK, the fronts were p165-80Rx15" on 4.5"x15" Mopar rims & the rears were p205-60Rx15" on 5"x15" Ford rims (Early 60's I think.) This worked OK when I had the rear lowered 2" & the front dropped about 3", so with those tires there was about 2.5" forward rake between the wheel centerlines. it was more like 4"+ at the bumpers.
    I have always wanted to widen the rear wells to the inboard, & narrow the rear axle, because this car cornered so well with the rear track a tad narrower than the front. I believe straight line stability was improved as well.

    My car was a daily driver, and I flogged it down the freeway.

    If you're building a taildragger, you'll need to keep the tires narrow, OR take serious measures to control body roll and dogtracking.

    To control sway and axle wrap, I was running 4 shocks on the rear axle (prior to the swaybar) with 2" over shackles. I had 235-70Rx15" tires on the rear, so car was jacked about 2" in back & lowered 2" in front, & the back still rubbed a bit.

    ("Jacked" is understood to be relative to however much the original springs had sagged before I g0t the car. It was never 2"over stock in back, but perhaps 1" under, depending on whether we're comparing with the original 15" or 16" wheels.)
     
  11. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    @ Ulu

    Mine is intended to be a slight tail dragger. That being said, I like the idea of installing a panhard bar. Seems straight forward and will be good insurance. I really don't want my tires rubbing the inside of the fenders after paying so much for them.
     
  12. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    @ Ulu

    Mine is intended to be a slight tail dragger. That being said, I like the idea of installing a panhard bar. Seems straight forward and will be good insurance. I really don't want my tires rubbing the inside of the fenders after paying so much for them.
     
  13. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    A panhard isn't normally needed with leaf springs, but with coils you must have one or something like it.

    But sway control will be needed for sure IMO
     
  14. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    That makes sense. I will look at the sway option.
     
  15. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Started sanding the primer to see where I needed to spend some time with the hammer and dolly.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439151171.943248.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439151188.269164.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439151206.295697.jpg

    Not too bad but this is just the larger spots on the drivers side. I plan to hit these over the next week, with hopes of getting to the passenger side by next weekend.
     
  16. E.F. VaBeach
    Joined: Nov 20, 2013
    Posts: 28

    E.F. VaBeach
    Member

    Dscn2898.jpg Dscn2903.jpg You're doing an awesome job on this build, this is a great thread to watch. Here's a couple pics of my '48, finally finished . P15's forever !
     
  17. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    ???
    Suicide doors with the handles on the trailing edge?

    How do you open them?
     
  18. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    Did you just rattle can the car primer gray as well? Is it your plan to then sand it all back off, revealing the highs/lows? I assume that the firewall is done with the satin black on it right? Was that rattle can as well? Whos?
     
  19. E.F. VaBeach
    Joined: Nov 20, 2013
    Posts: 28

    E.F. VaBeach
    Member

    Ahh - you have a keen eye, Ulu. Actually, it was nearly the hardest part of the suicide door design. It's all manual - the handles function normally, but there's a cable running through a conduit inside the door in the window sill area that opens the bearclaw latch on the door front. Routing it without interfering with the window mechanism was a challenge. The bearclaw clamps on its own when the door closes, so opening is the sole mechanical necessity for the latches and cables.

    Cutting the trailing bottom edges of the doors in (to match the front bottom edges) was also necessary to accommodate the door swinging in reverse. All in all, it wasn't easy . . .
     
  20. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    Oh yeah. The "ogee" shape of the body screws that reverse-door swing up, until the corner is relieved a lot. I didn't notice that in the photo.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
  21. 33rag
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 119

    33rag
    Member
    from Pa.

    You should swap your calipers side to side,your bleeders are on the bottom,does not work.Good luck on you build.
     
  22. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX


    Thanks! I swapped the calipers awhile back.
     
  23. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    So I found some time today to install the front shocks. I used ford F-1 front shock mounts and simply marked and drilled the mounting holes through the frame then fastened them to the frame using grade 8 hardware.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439765606.067566.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439765625.126334.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439765642.951684.jpg

    I also temporarily re-attached the front fenders in order to make room in the garage but I also wanted to see what the old girl looked like with the front suspension mods.

    I have to say that she is definitely sitting higher than expected. That being said I know it will drop a bit with the motor installed. Plus the whole car will settle once she gets some miles back under her belt.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439765873.447843.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439765884.237271.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1439765897.797927.jpg

    Next up is to finish the major body work then tear into the motor.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2015
  24. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I like the F100 shock mod. Did you sleeve the frame and thru-bolt?

    Also I'd change the snubber bolt. since it doesn't hold the shock now It can be far less massive. Weight reduction on the moving suspension parts isn't easy to come by, but here's an easy chance.
     
    brad2v likes this.
  25. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    PS: I suspect it'll be in the weeds up front, based on how mine sat w/o engine.
     
  26. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Ulu,

    I sleeved the frame and thru bolted the mounts. I probably could have gotten away without it but better to have added strength.
     
  27. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    I sure hope so.
     
  28. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I have the cast iron overdrive too, which is pretty heavy.
    I'm hoping to go with a much lighter powertrain this time around.
     
  29. CM3112
    Joined: Apr 27, 2014
    Posts: 85

    CM3112
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    So while I am waiting on some body panels I figured I would freshen up the motor. Unfortunately, this venture did not turn out as planned. Keep in mind that the car ran prior to sending it off to the hot rod shop awhile back. When it returned unfinished after 9 months, it would not start. I figured it was probably bad gas or something minor. However, when I pulled the intake I noticed there was water inside the intake. That as you know is never a good sign.

    With that in mind I figured I may as well take her apart and do it right. So I started that this past weekend and I was not happy with what I found.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441042065.173847.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441042078.892781.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441042094.734563.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441042107.807662.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441042122.180785.jpg

    Now I am not sure if I should stick with the rebuild or just swap it for something else. Right now I will just finish disassembling it and take it to get cleaned and magnafluxed. Once I see what the end result of that is I will make some decisions.

    Any input is appreciated.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  30. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    Oh, man...you've been hosed!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.