Projects Mild 1952 Coronet

You are going to have a hell of a time removing the rear tires if you go with that size once the block are on. It's already kind of tricky for me and I have the 7.10-15 Firestone bias plys

 

On my 53 when i hade the loweringblocks i have to have a small jackstand between axle and
frame to give me clearense to change wheel.

 

Great car to start with, looks all there and ready for a good clean up. Bet that paint will polish up fine too. left mine 6v..no issues so far and the flatty run good too. I did the T-5 5 speed conversion, now it needs another carb
have fun

 

Thanks guys! I will go with the 7.10x15 then.

@49Dodgeboy , T5 sounds like an awesome swap. Is that a big improvement for highway driving?

 

yes definitely but sure feels the need for more carburation.. Will be working on that soon

 

Haven't done much recently. I wanted to address the no-spark problem so I just took the shotgun approach and am going through the ignition, replacing the coil, condenser, points, and distributor cap. The rotor looks fine to me.

Gotta order some new shoes for it so I can roll it out into the driveway and really get the rest of the filthy caked-on grease off so I can finish up the brakes and paint the chassis, wheelwells, and floor. I found a product called Greez-Off that works great, but it must be washed off.

I have another question. Does anyone have an access hole in the floor to get to the master cylinder? I don't. How are you supposed to access the reservoir fill plug to bleed this thing without removing that part of the floor?

 

my '49 has an access panel just at the heel of the gas pedal ( see pic)

 

Sure enough... I wonder why mine doesn't have one. Still have to fix that section of the floor/firewall so I'll be sure to make provisions to add that panel. Thanks!

 

had to make a cut in the carpet for it but I went from Flintstone floors to this....

 

Okay, another rookie question. What's the safest way to get the rear end of the car in the air? Am I safe to jack it up on the shackles and place the stands by the crossmember? Time to do the rear brakes and install the drop blocks. But I'm paranoid about lifting cars up and getting under them still.

 

Put the stands in front of the spring connectors and wheels. This will leave room to roll the rear axle out without the stands being in the way.

 

Thanks, that's sort of what I was thinking at first but it's closer to the middle of the car than what I would have thought ideal.

 

Pin on the block won't line up. Is this a big deal or will it settle when it's off the stands?

 

The pin needs to seat into the hole. From the picture it is hard to tell exactly how it's misaligned. Check your axle alignment front to back and side to side. If all you have done is add the block, it should all go back together the same.

 

Got it, thanks. There's always a learning curve the first time I do anything no matter how simple it is.

It's looking nice, I'll clean the garage and the post some photos.

 

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