I will look at the casting number tonight. The previous owner stated that it was a 217, but the motor was in it when he bought it. I do plan on cleaning it up/out and a planned on a dual carb setup as well as split manifolds. Once I tear into the motor over the next few months, I will get a better feel for what I have to work with. I appreciate the info, good stuff for sure.
The number is stamped into the pad not cast. The blocks were cast and stored for as many as two years before assembly in some cases so the casting date doesn't really mean much. Also check the side of the block near the distributor for a riveted on brass tag, this would indicate its a commercially rebuilt engine. These were fairly common. Chrysler also sold un numbered blocks to rebuilders and they sometimes did not stamp their number on but rather affixed the tag. Some information one the tag would indicate the machining processes, and parts resizing used in the reman.
This is what I love about this forum. I checked the stamping based on your suggestion an this is what I found... I believe it reads - P23 8I9460
You got it. Engines were built and trucked to the assembly facility along with body stampings from Briggs Body. They came together on the assembly line and the finished car was given its serial number. Check your paper work. Some States, counties etc. used engine numbers on title documents, some used the vehicle serial number ( should be a tag on one of the A pillars) your car's engine got swapped in its life, if the governing authority used the original engine number and did not reflect the swap you may have a problem. Some folks have found either a repeat of the serial number or the engine number stamped into the frame above the rear axle on the drivers side. You can for a fee get a build card from Chrysler Historical that would be a record of the original body number, engine number and serial number if you get in a document fix. By the way Terrell machine in Terrell Texas is a good source of mechanical parts for engine needs.
Great job on this build I really enjoy checking in on this thread. The p15-d24 forum can be another great resource for info on these cars. -Chris Sent from my flip phone.
Got some of the holes filled this week Filled the antenna Firewall done Old mirror holes filled Still need to get the fuel filler, deck lid and fender welded.
Rock on CM! Plymouth makes it! I put 5 years & 65,000 miles on my pseudo-restovated P-15, and pretty much wore it out. 25 years later, I'm rebuilding it from the ground up. Actually it's on hold for a little bit, & I'm not going to rush things after ignoring it 25 years. This is the resto I wanted to do in 1985 but had neither money nor a sympathetic wife. My current wife is semi-sympathetic, so it's getting done, along with some house remodeling she's been wanting, and some which I have too. I managed to remodel my garage first. then the patio (hers.) In between (right now) I'm overhauling the drive train on my motorcycle. Kitchen is next (I'm the cook here, she hates it...) bathroom (hers), new couch, and THEN I get to paint the Plymouth. LOL <edit> If 65,000 seems like scant mileage for this engine, remember that I was 30 years younger, and had a real case of leadfoot. </edit>
I hear ya! I have had to walk the line of car/kids/wife/work/honey-do's, but this experience has been very rewarding so far. The morning after I pulled the body I wasn't sure if I had made the right decision or not. Now I am pretty happy with it. It will never be a concourse winner but I know it will make a hell of a driver.
I was able to work on the car most of the weekend. Got the tail lights filled and the trunk done. Still need to repair the bottom of the deck lid though.
My deck lid isn't rusty, but has a big dent I discovered under 1/2" of bondo. That's gonna be he worst of mine.
Seeing as you are doing your own welding and body work as well as your own research and assembly work, what was the original work you were going to have done by the shop in Houston? I can't imagine them doing it better, and certainly, not the dedication your putting into your build. BILL RINALDI
I appreciate the compliment. A buddy of mine was gracious enough to volunteer to do the welding for me, so I can't take credit for that piece. When I took the car to the shop, I was traveling very heavily for work and did not have any time to work on it. This year has been lighter on travel so I dove in head first.
I am ordering some new rockers and a trunk lip from the Plymouth Doctor to finish up the rust repair on the old girl. So with some of the welding completed I went ahead and sprayed (rattle can) a guide coat of primer on the car. I learned this from my Pops since he always liked to have an idea of the highs and lows before he applied the "good" primer. Still need to straighten some panels and fill a few spots but I will handle that over the next few weeks. I did spray the firewall satin black and I think it turned out well. I plan on painting the entire under hood area satin black as I go through the remaining front sheet metal.
Looking good man. I see you mention patch panels from the Plymouth Doctor. I saw a thread over on the p15-d24 forum about issues with him. Supposedly lately he hasn't been completing the orders and people are having a hell of a time getting the parts or money back. I'd search for that thread on the p15 forum and check it out before placing any orders. Just giving you a heads up. -Chris Sent from my flip phone.
Due to all the storms a few months ago in Texas, we ended up needing a new roof. Therefore I had to set the body back on the frame in order to get it out of the driveway. Lifting the body to clear the chassis. Still had another block to go. And two become one Not real sure about the ride height. The rear is sitting higher than when I got the car even with 3" blocks and Posie's 3" drop leafs. I still plan on de-arching them which will hopefully get me down where I want. However, if it doesn't then I may have to slap bags on the back with a 4 link. We shall see.
I truly believe that he intended to do the work but let other priorities get in the way. To his credit, he is working with me to refund my deposit.
I took a couple leaves out of the spring packs just to see what would happen. Definitely closer to where I want to be. I think they are more anxious to get the Plymouth finished than I am.
Thanks! The wife was very insistent that whatever I bought had a back seat. I got the de-arched springs back this morning from Pruitt in Houston. I installed them as soon as I got home from work and I must say that I am very happy. While the rear does not sit as low as it would with air bags, it sits nice at this point and it will settle a bit over time, plus the fuel tank will add to it once that is installed and full. Plus, it just feels better knowing that I have a nice solid set up in the back. Bumper needs to be worked on a bit then it will look more "normal". I have a modified bracket being welded together. I will start working on the body panels this weekend! Starting to get excited!
Had an opportunity to buy a '47 Plymouth coupe for $300.00 when I was 15. Bought a guitar instead. Bad decision. This build makes me want to go find another one now!
Thanks!! Now I will move into the slower part of the build while I try to massage and smooth out the rear end. I am thinking of some 49-50 Chevy or some 51 Hudson tail lights mounted nice and low!
What fun. Can't we say "I funned on my project" instead of worked ? Cause you are having so much fun ! I see your caliper bleed plugs are very low and will be a pain to get them filled. Can you swap sides ? I know you can unbolt them for initial bleed but am thinking down the road.
The Jalopy Journal
