so I painted this truck when I was 15 and I'm 25 now it's come time to repaint I know it's over done but I want to stay with the flat or matte black Here's my question I want paint that's going to hold up to bug juice and the sun because what I have now has faded and looks gray in some spots and bugs have taken a toll on the hood I see people describe satin black as a semi gloss or people say just clearcoat your flat black I would like it to pop a little bit not just look like primer what i used the first time was John Deere blitz black
Looks like the JD Blitz Black has proven itself. 10 years of bugs and sun will take a toll on any finish.
I'm not complaining about it by any means just looking at different options The box sides are not straight buy any means so I don't know if clearing it would be a total waste of time but would like to make it pop a little bit more
That's a nice truck. I'd have to agree the matt black has held up well. I haven't had good luck with that finish so I use a flattener in clear over gloss black for under the hood when I'm looking for that look. Holds up great.
I don't how true it is but a former boss of mine used that on a car and told me you can't paint over it??? Might be worth looking into but still seems like you could find a way to re-coat. Tim
Back in the late 70's I chased this Trans am from Texarkana to Georgia that was black with gold god-awful gold pin striping and this huge flaming chicken on the hood. Anyone who would paint their car like that would wear feathers to a ministers funeral. He committed the Mann act, Kidknappin (I don't think he had the girls consent), and nearly killed 20 brother law officers before ditching us at a truck rodeo at the Georgia state fairgrounds. I still have nightmares about that car and that Black and gold paint job...sumbitch. Hope I never live to see another paint job like it, that tick turd.
I have had great success with the Kirker semi-gloss black,I painted my 32 pickup 7 years ago and it still looked good when I sold it. HRP
I literally was just checking out TP Tools sale catalogue and they are selling a 3/4 gallon of kirker hot rod black 2part urethane topcoat with a quart of activator for $65.. Seems like a good deal and its UV proof to boot.
If you're sort of tired of the look try gloss black base and finish with flattened clear top coat and mix in a colored pearl.
The OP really has only 2 choices. Either recoat with alkyd enamel or acrylic enamel, or strip the paint that's on it and go from there with whatever paint he wants to use. 2k primers, single stage urethane, or urethane base/clear paints will all cause the blitz black and all other similar cheap enamel paints to lift. People need to learn 2 things about these types of paint....... First, they are not made for painting cars. And second, if you get wooed by the 40 bucks a gallon or less price, make sure its something you want to live with for a long time because it'll take a thousand bucks worth of labor and material to get rid of it later so the car or truck can be painted with a modern and durable paint. The paint on HRP's 32 pickup currently costs $90 per sprayable gallon. Its a single stage urethane automotive paint that'll hold up far longer than any cheapo enamel of any kind. And, if HRP (or the new owner) decides to change the color, all they have to do is sand it to get some tooth on the surface and go ahead with any primer or paint materials they care to use since there's no worry about lifting. Assuming you use 2 gallons of either paint for an overall job, the urethane costs you an extra hundred bucks total. Using tractor paint instead is the most expensive hundred bucks you'll ever save.
Metlmunchr who's the op ? And I'm well aware that I either have to repaint with blitz black or strip it down but I should be able to do a flat clear on the blitz black correct ? And to be completely honest I never wanted to do a gloss finish on this truck so when I was 15 and painting this truck I was pretty happy with how it turned out for tractor paint!
OP! He is telling it like it is. YOU asked for input. You now have more options. I did the DP90 25 years go. Today the matte black is everywhere.
Original poster you guys and your fancy abbreviations Slammed chill! that's what I want is opinions and options and yes the The Matte black is everywhere but black is always cool
Clear acrylic enamel is available in gloss. Never have seen any in a prepackaged matte or flat finish but it may be out there. Any paint's gloss can be reduced via the addition of a flattening agent, but I can't say whether or not adding flattener will work in clear acrylic enamel without making it cloudy as I've never tried it. That's something the paint manufacturer can tell you. Just keep in mind 95% or more of the clears you find online are urethane, and cannot be used over the blitz black.
Listen to metlmuncher, he is right on the money! Deere black is the same sort of cheap enamel that Earl Scheib used on cars. It does not like being recoated, though your chances are much better if it's been dry a long time, or used with a hardener. But I wouldn't take a chance on it, considering the coast of materials, and the time it takes to prep a car for paint. If it goes bad, you have to do it, and pay for it, TWICE! Strip it down to the primer, be sure to get all the Deere paint off, seal it or epoxy primer it, then proceed with acrylic enamel ( cheaper) or urethane.
Summit's black epoxy primer, P/N SUM-UP234, has the perfect rich black color and 'suede' texture. Don't know how long it takes to fade, though. Being epoxy, it should last a long time.
you probably don't want to mess with this, but if that truck were mine, I'd move the front wheel slightly forward (lengthen the frame) to center it in the wheelwell. Ford should've did it at the factory.
Another thing that a lot of guys never figure out, is to take a wet towel and wipe the bugs off the front when you get home. They have acid in their little tummies and left on paint or chrome it will eventually eat through the finish. They come off a lot easier when they are fresh as well. I learned this on my first Harley, and have been trying to stick with the program every since.
You can give it a try with clear. The paint on it now has definitely had time to outgas any solvents. I'd say, shoot a fender, if it all goes to shit, sand everything off the fender then plan on just doing it again in Blitz black. Use an enamel clear, not urethane, use the correct hardener. I wouldn't try to clear a fresh coat of blitz black. As the fresh coat of Blitz cures it will outgas and lift the clear. Fully cured is still a crap shoot.
If you're sanding off the blitz black. Use a urethane black base, satin urethane clear. The satin clear is touchy, it will tiger stripe easily. Sanding and buffing satin clear, you're on your own, not recommended but maybe it can be done. http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive...omotive-Hot-Rod-Flatz-Urethane-Clears-HRF289/
Just sand truck down to bare metal... save yourself a ton of "What-ifs" Its what I'm going to have to do to mine since contractors got aluminum latex paint overspray on mine. Do a good base coat clear coat and you can do a flat or semi flat clear and it will not fade at all...
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