Hey guys, New to the forums and this is my first post but I just wanted to show you all what I'm starting with. Do be warned, it's rough. But it just needs some TLC. So here it is, my 66 f100 project. It's my first project car as I'm only 20, but I'm hoping to learn, and learn, and learn some more. The truck was offered to me by a close family friend and it was just too good of a deal to pass on. It's got the original 352 in it and I drove it home although it ran like hell haha.
I've got more but I'm having trouble uploading them. Will upload when I have a chance. Here's what I've done so far: Car died while running rough. I attributed that to bad gas. Got all the old gas out of the tank and checked the inside for rust, and it checked out fine. Got some good gas back in the tank, and replaced fuel pump, fuel lines, plugs, wires, rebuilt the carb, and checked the intake valves to see how well they were moving. It's starts back up now and runs very poorly. Double and triple checked the firing order to make sure I had it right and I did. So then I double checked to make sure the carb was working right after the rebuild, did some tuning. And that wasn't the issue either, so I started pulling plugs and checking compressions. I've got under 20 psi on 3 cylinders and the other 5 are in between 55 and 100 psi. So next on my list would just be a fresh rebuild. I would love to keep the motor in the truck because it's a numbers matching block. Anyway, that's where I'm at now. The steering column needs to be replaced so those are my next two things on my to-do list.
Hey has anyone used rebel wire harnesses? I'm looking for an affordable wire harness. And some reviews from people who have used them.
Well the vin says it's a 66. And I have the hanging gas pedal as well as the padded dash. I heard those became standard in 66. And the grille is a 66. So I'm pretty sure. What made you second guess?
Its the same diff as a 65. Rebel wire kit was AWESOME. I laid it in over a few days. Took me maybe a week. I did one end at a time, and took my time. So much easier than dealing with trying to fix whats there. Just tear it all out. call rebel wire, tell them what you need. I made a box to mount my fuse block on the inside of the firewall and routed all the wires out of the floor. Cant see a big glob of wires on my firewall now, so much cleaner.
I'm gonna throw the extra chunk of cash for the 21 circuit one. So I can add stuff when necessary but I definitely like their prices. And is the installation guide pretty easy to follow? Because I know basics of electricity. Still learning!
Here's a picture of the column. Trying to figure out why the previous owner did this. My guess if shift arm probably broke. Any ideas on where to get an affordable column? I know ididit makes them but they are definitely pricy.
http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/f250-steering-columns.php This came up first on Google... start there and carry on , cheers
mhuston....I guess Jalopy Jokers statement completely flew over your head....Read up a little more on the HAMB and you might finally understand,,,,
Chevrolet van tilt works great . Or ford manual floor shift . Parts available to repair hours . Green Sales Co. Cinti Oh
I'll let you know. I found a whole column fairly cheap last night. Column is in great shape just needs sanded and paint. I'll post a picture when it arrives in mail!
Alright just a small update. I couldn't do much to the truck for the last week being as though we're having a rainpocalypse here in Missouri. And I've been dealing with floods. But I did get a chance to drain the radiator, remove the alternator, power steering pumps, and all the belts. Tonight I'm gonna jack her up and remove the exhaust.
Nice project!.....I drove a 65 F100 for years, and it just kept on running top notch all those miles....drove it to Alaska and back twice and was such a great little truck. I think they are very overlooked in today's market, and certainly have fantastic potential....good luck
Good to see another young guy on here! The first car I ever bought was a '65 F-250 LWB with a 300ci 6 and a 3 speed. I'm keen to see what you do with the truck. You might cop a little bit of hell for the truck being post '65 but I know how tough it is trying to get into the old car game at our age. Keep up the good work. John
Nice project! I picked up a 66 f100 also a couple of months ago. Been using it as a daily driver and going to keep using it.
This has come up before usually concerning Ford and Chevrolet trucks of the 1966 model year. They're fine for discussion as both are continuations of late 50s-early 60s design. It's common sense. The kid and his truck are fine.
Hey thanks guys! I love the truck so far. It's been a great learning project. I'm having a blast and will post some more pics soon as I can. I'm almost ready to pull the block out and clean it up. I can't wait to get her out on the road and driving!
It's possible that the engine does not need a total rebuild. Here are some things to try first. Do your compression test again. Squirt a little oil with an oil can into the cylinder you are going to check. Your not trying to fill the cylinder up....put just enough to saturate the rings. Then do your compression check. If it has significantly more pressure than before......That's an indication you need piston rings. If there is little change in the pressure after squirting the oil in the cylinder...that's a possible indication of the following, collapsed lifter, burnt valve, blown head gasket, hole in the piston, broken push rod, damaged head, damaged cylinder, worn camshaft, poor valve seal and other problems with the valve train. The valve train problems like lifters, push rods and even a worn camshaft can be corrected without removing the heads. One thing about a worn cam...if the lobe is wiped out all those fragments are in there doing damage. If two cylinders side by side show low compression, that's a possible indication of a blown head gasket. To replace the blown gasket the heads have to be removed. It's also a good time to inspect the valves. The head and block will need to be trued. You can do this somewhat with a large flat file. The file will only do so much, if it's really warped the heads and block will have to be machined. If it's burned and damaged valves and seats, the heads will have to be rebuilt or replaced. Now if the valves and seats are good to fair condition, sometimes they can be hand lapped to restore function. This is a good option on an engine that has sat for a while and the valves and seats have rusted up. You can find instructions online about lapping valves. So you may be able to get it running pretty good without a total rebuild especially if it's in the valve train or a blown gasket. Now if it's rings or pistons. It's rebuild time.
Will consider. Hoping to use it for a 2-3 time per week driver so I might just go ahead with the rebuild so I don't have to worry about anything down the road.
Keep it up! I have a 64 thread going which include crown vic swap and steering column work. Need anything feel free to shoot me an email [email protected] would be more than glad to help!
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