Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Very Nice project Dennis, I like everything you are doing. I'd keep those fenders close by, I bet they look good with 18's I love full fenered cars/trucks however...

Small world I just shipped Geoff Skene a set or early 32 hood latches this morning

 

Dennis: Great project. Those rear fenders would look good on a 32 PU project just starting in Nebraska?

 

Quiet! I have first dibs on the rear fenders.

 

Dennis, I've modified three sets of '32 V8 motor mounts for Chevrolet small blocks. The Ford attachment bolts were 7/16" on 2 1/4" centers, Chevy is 1 5/8" with 3/8" bolts. I turned a shouldered sleeve for the top hole (7/16" od x 3/8" id) and then drilled the lower hole 3/8". Because of the step in the forging I made a spacer for the bottom hole so the bolt seated flush. Also welded a piece of 1/4" cold roll to the back of the motor mount so the block pan rail sets on it. At the LARS I've had 4 people ask what mounts were on my Roadster. When I tell them they are original '32 Ford V8 mounts they stand there in disbelief. Of course there's always the guy that points out that Ford wanted a Chevy in his cars, lol. Your project is going to be great and looking forward to seeing it completed.

 

I have pretty much the same setup in my 32 truck I used a engine plate from rjays speed shop but the only downside is you can't use a stock fuel pump. I also have a zips water pump riser I had to modify the oil fill tube clear the riser, as far as the thermostat housing I just special ordered one through auto zone. Looking good, hope this help.

 

Here's a view from the top.

 

Thank you, all, for your suggestions regarding the thermostat housing! I'm gonna do some more research using all of these suggestions. There's always a way to make it work.

Anybody wanna buy a 4-banger?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-b-4-cylinder-engine-and-transmission.974293/

 

Sleeving the holes is exactly what I was going to do. To confirm what I'm understanding about how you positioned the mounts on the block: You aligned the existing upper hole in the mount with the upper hole in the block, then drilled a new hole in the mount to align with the lower hole in the block? Doing so would set the front of the engine higher than aligning the bottom holes in the mounts with the bottom holes in the block. From what I can tell, the lower holes in the Chevy block are in the same relative position to the crank shaft center line as a flat head block. I figured that this would put the center of the crank in the center of the crank hole in the front spring clamp. Did you find it beneficial to get the front of the engine up a little more?

 

I saved all of the photos from the thread you shared those pictures in. After studying them I was able to figure out exactly what was going on. Pretty damn smart! I may just copy the technique and spare butchering the mounts.

 

They are, most likely, going to be for sale...

 

The Holley/94 carburetor on your engine definitely leaves a lot more room around the outlet than the Rochester 2G's on mine. The fuel bowl overhangs the rear half of the outlet so what you used won't work in my case, unfortunately.

 

Hi Dennis,
I ran and edelbrock x-1 6x2 with the zips riser on the fordor and it was problematic as well just like yours. In my quest to find a water outlet, I noticed the outlet on my 95 chevy 1500 4x4 with the 4.3 v6 (the cheyenne model for what its worth) has the perfect shape. I didn't find out if the bolt pattern is the same as a v8 but I suspect that it is( a good friend let me have a similar shaped housing off his core so I ended up not researching it any more.) I would definitely check it out. It goes straight up, but the outlet is on the front of the housing so it will give you clearance for the carb and the riser housing.

 

Dennis. When you're ready, call the shop (281-376-5932) and talk to dad. He's a strong player on the fenders.

 

Danny: you want to arm wrestle for the rear fenders?

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...k=Search_C0420_1031421_779&pt=C0420&ppt=C0331

 

self portrait!

 

Danny: I'll just forfeit the match and wait for the new ones. At my age I don't need to embarrass myself!

 

If that's a new T shirt, I want one!...XL

 

What he said.
Til then I'll have to settle for this, I just happen to have a bare spot on the shop wall.

 

Norwell knocked this one out of the park!!!
BTW--- will XL fit us full figured guys?

 

speak for yourself...I'm just big boned (Cartman)

dude...the bone in your ass must be huge! (Kenny)

 

Hey---I resemble that remark(Doug)
Did we just get a new feature added to the HAMB, posting notice w/members avatar?
I LIKE IT!!

 

Dennis, The Ford rubber donut motor mounts will compress and the Chevy engine will sit level with the frame rail if you use the top hole of the V8 mount and sleeve the top and new hole for a 3/8" bolt. Really like your project and hope to see it at the LARS. Ron

 

Dennis - Glad to see you you back involved in the hot rod scene. I would keep the fenders...unless you want to sell the fronts to me...

Neal

 

The T shirt is killer...thanks Danny

 

I vote for hanging onto the fenders also. At least stash 'em in case you feel like sticking 'em back on someday. Hunting for the rears can be a lifetime search.

 

Someone on here did it this way, i forget who.
Al.

 

Thanks, Neal. It feels good to be working on a hot rod again. Since selling the roadster I've completely fallen out of the loop and it sucks. I'm really looking forward to getting back on the road. With a healthy SBC I should have no trouble making the drive to, say, Atascadaro...

 

Thanks for the pictures. This is probably how I'm going to approach mine.