Projects Can't believe how lucky I got ........... 23 T or 27 RPU

I never liked the looks of any IRS under an early car, a standard rear end or even a quick change like I went to is a much better choice I think.
Especially on a car where the rear end is there for the world to see.

 

Those brakes look like polished dookie.

 

Three times the fun here, nice work.
I'd love to have the C Cab, I'd have it looking better in no time, the bucket I'd flip, and the RPU would get all the attention.
Keep up the great work, I'm keen to follow along.

 

Is dookie good or not so good? ️

 

Whatever happened to the HAMB being a traditional forum. Disk brakes, jag rear all kinds of just messing this car up.

 

Lighten up, it's only one out of three rods in this thread, and he talks about selling it. Give the man a chance to change his mind, and repent his sins.

He might be on his way, in the right direction with the RPU. and the frame with the disc brakes he talks/thinks about maybe selling.
And he just used it for a mock up, but talks about building the bucket and sell it to finance an traditional build of the RPU with a model A frame.

Give him two page before you go all in. ️
Please don't see this as a rant in you general direction.
I just think he deserves a second chance!

Just me two cents, if you disagree PM me and tell me what you thing about me, and let the FNG learn his way.

Irony and humor brought to you from halfway around the world.

 

Well, Brynk, he did say it was POLISHED Dookie!

 

So of a guy can polish a turd, he is a master fabricater. If a guy polishes the one eyes gofer in public, he is a perverd or George Michael. If a guy polish a dookie he is ?????
Weird? Wrong? In bad standing?

I think you guy are pulling my leg, but I can't figure out what way.

 

Actually, I thought you were making a joke, so I responded in kind! Polished dookie is the same as shiny crap.....as in looks like crap, just shiny. Not good!


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Sooooo, after more consideration seems like the best course is to build the T Bucket into a runner with the parts I wont be needing for the RPU and swap out the stuff I will need for the RPU.

I see that some suggest that disc brakes and an IRS are not appropriate for the RPU, I also see where the subject has been well discussed in other posts, and I have seem many really great looking rides utilizing the same basic parts to include some really high dollar stuff from some pretty well known builders, think I'll stick by my guns on that one.

I admit this type of build is new to me and I know little to nothing about the specifics of the differences between T's and A's and the associated parts. That is why I am here. To learn how to build a safe and practical ride that I can take pride in and enjoy with my SO.

I do pretty well at repairing / rebuilding most things and can handle some modifications that require welding but lack the Fab skills that many of you seem to excel at so I will be looking for systems and setups that work within the realm of the average builder.

Since my pockets have more dust than cash I will have to use what I have or what I can put together as funding comes around. First step, build and sell the Bucket to finance the RPU and keep looking for the correct parts. Sure hope I can count on the HAMB to guide me as I move along.

Give your opinions please:
1. I have a BBC 454 in my shop that needs a home. Should I put it in the Bucket.

2. The Bucket came to me setup with a quarter elliptical spring setup in the rear. I have never seen one setup that way. Is it safe? Should Do I go with a more conventional setup?


3. I have located a 1948 F2 pickup in a local salvage yard. Are the front end components and steering gear suitable for either of my builds? (Steering box looks very similar to what's in my C Cab)

4. What brake system should I be looking for?

Looks like I'll be loading up some fodder and headed to the LASR swap meet at Speedway in Lincoln Nebraska this weekend and try to find a few things and sell a few things to fund the RPU build. Hope to see/meet some HAMBers there. Look for the guy selling some 27/28 Chevy truck sheet metal (Cowl with windshield, doors, running boards, visor, Radiator and shell, cab rear panel, rear fenders) .

Cheers ........

 

A great project, love it. (I love the C Cab too, but I have a C Cab fetish so that's hardly surprising!)
Personal opinion: Lots of "purists" grumbling about the IRS and discs, so DEFINITELY stick to your guns and use 'em!
Jag IRS has been around a long time now, and it's been a popular choice with rodders since the mid 60's at least, so I don't think it will be out of place, and is more visually interesting than a plain old solid axle.
Keep up the good work!
PS I like the quarter elliptics, they should be fine.

 

I would run the bucket with the 1/4 elliptic springs and what ever it's set up for in the front should be fine.
It's a bucket you plan to sell, so don't invest to much emotions in it if you gonna sell it.

The 454 going in to what depends on the era you are shooting for. I always liked the Dean Lowe RPU it's awesome!
But if you run that like he did it should be possible to run a full fender RPU 29 with a 454 and the jag rear, if you keep the fenders and don't bob the bed, not to hard at least. If it hides the rear, and you got the jag run it.

And I don't remember what mill came with the bucket, but the more belly button it is the more non HAMBers what's to but it! Remember HAMBers are less the 10% of the free world, but the coolest less then 10% group in the world. But most likely other people don't agree with us. So go after what you see on the streets near you, for style, it sells faster.

 

I would run the bucket with the 1/4 elliptic springs and what ever it's set up for in the front should be fine.
It's a bucket you plan to sell, so don't invest to much emotions in it if you gonna sell it.

The 454 going in to what depends on the era you are shooting for. I always liked the Dean Lowe RPU it's awesome!
But if you run that like he did it should be possible to run a full fender RPU 29 with a 454 and the jag rear, if you keep the fenders and don't bob the bed, not to hard at least. If it hides the rear, and you got the jag run it.

And I don't remember what mill came with the bucket, but the more belly button it is the more non HAMBers what's to but it! Remember HAMBers are less the 10% of the free world, but the coolest less then 10% group in the world. But most likely other people don't agree with us. So go after what you see on the streets near you, for style, it sells faster.

 

My turn. I really like the RPU idea ( for obvious reasons) and the use of a Model A chassis is a good one as they are the perfect base for a 26-27 T. 32 frames look great too but I like the sporty look of T's on A frames. As for the Jag rear, they don't excite me at all but that's me. You could flip it and a get more traditional setup. I know its not going to be a period piece but traditional inspired, that's how I view mine.
I will follow along on this as it has the makings of something cool.
Here is how I got mine. JW

 

Martin and Volvo ......... Thanks for the comments and encouragement.

JW ...... I see the attraction for RPUs, Like where yours is going too. (Looks like you need some springs/shocks in the rear. LOL. What are those wheels? What engine/trans you gonna run?

Given that I have to build the T Bucket first it'll probably be a bit till I can get around to the RPU but I'll continue to update as I move forward with both.

Still need to know ...........if 1948 F2 pickup front end components and steering gear suitable for either of my builds? (Steering box looks very similar to what's in my C Cab) and what brake system should I be looking for?

 

That was nearly four years ago, it looks like this now. You can see all the pics for it in album for the car or my build thread on the Hot Rod Model T Group. JW

 

Nice ............ Simple, unencumbered, interesting choice on the color combination. Love it

 

Ok one more, 283 Chev, power-glide, 48 rear end with open drive, 42-48 brakes and tube shocks. Oh and radial tires for New Zealand roads (can change them in an our) on 16 inch reversed 48 wheels. JW

 

Went and checked out your album, nice build. Why did you can out the motor it came with

 

The guy i got it off sold the 241 Red Ram and wire before I found it for sale and I already had the 283 (now 301) and glide. The wheels on it now are the ones that came with it.
Cheers for the comments. JW

 

This car is great looking car! But being full fendered I could hide a Jag rear. But it's a matter using what's available.
And if the Jag rear is easy to flip, you could do that, but it's possible to do a traditional build with one.

 

Dean Lowes A RPU........cool !! JW

 

Somebody else is going to have to answer about the question n the box for sure, but my opinion is if you think the F-2 box will work, use it. I know the later F-100 boxes are popular, and I doubt there's all that big of a difference (but I don't know that for sure, hence the opening comment!). Now as far as the IRS, not really traditional per the board rules (they were not real popular in the pre-1965 era, so there will be a lot of people down on them here), but if you want to run it, run it! It's your car, build it to please you! But, if you need advice on the installation, this probably won't be the best place to ask for info......(I've never run one myself, I was a foreign car mechanic in another life, so I've seen my share of Jag's. I'd be more likely to run a Vette rear due to the brake issue I mentioned before, and I believe parts availability is better). Brakes are kinda going to depend on personal preferance, era / build style your going for, and to a lesser degree, front axle choice. Also not sure about the width on the F-2 axle, how does it compare to a T or A axle.

Kurt

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My RPU runs a F-1 box. JW

 

I wouldn't use the the 48-52 front end. It's too wide, I would look for a 33-34 ford front axle, 39-40 ford front spindles and brakes, rear I would use model-A or anything 33-40 those would be perfect on your T. Steering I'd go with a F100 depending on your motor, please no modern engine (my opinion). There are so many builds here and you were just shown a bad ass RPU truck that's perfect and traditional. I'd go that route. That other sh!t no.

 

Here's my 27 ford roadster on a 32 ford frame, flathead powered. I'm not a rich man and I was able to find the right parts and the right price.

 

^^ That looks stunning JW

 

Well it's been a long time since my last post here and it's time get back moving on this project. I decided to go with a more traditional build and finally located a motor to build up, my first flathead. Local long time mechanic had one stored for 10 years or so that he had purchased as a runner with intent to retrofit into an old ford tractor.

Here's the first I saw of it.


Talked the PO into opening it up for a visual inspection and with the exception of two head bolts that snapped during disassembly, didn't see anything suspect and was pleasantly surprised at the condition of what we believe to be a 49. Couple hundred $ for what you see plus 2 new/rebuilt water pumps. Got it home and started the cleanup in earnest. Couple hours with a gasket scraper, razor blades, wire brush and wipe down with oil this is what I got.





No visible crack anywhere and all but one cylinder look really good. The engine had been stored in the shop for all these years but the plugs were removed at some point and managed to get moisture in it. Most cylinders have a little discoloration and the number 6 cylinder has just a bit of surface rust at the top. Here's what it looks like.
Yes, there is a bit of carbon on the pistons and valve faces, but much better than I expected. The valves cleaned up real nice and the 2 pistons I started to clean up look real good as well. Found the whole assembly turns over quite nicely and the valve train operating as it should. I'm thinking a light honing to clean it up and good to go.
Since this all looked good I also pulled the intake and was pleasantly surprised to find this.


Amazingly clean for a 60+ year old engine. No sludge or debris at all (except gasket remnants I got there). This thing is leading me to believe that a good cleanup, light honing, reseal (gaskets, etc) and reassembly might be all that's required, and budget begs for this to be true.

Yes, I know that would be a bit of a crapshoot and that only a thorough hot tanking followed by magna flux and pressure tests could declare it road worthy, but the budget...........

Tomorrow will see the trans come off, and the flattie mounted to a stand so I can get the oil pan off and check the bottom end.
Interested to hear your advice .........

 

Cool. JW

 

and for those that may be wondering .......... I ended putting the 454 in to the T-bucket with a T-350 and Ford 9inch, putting floors and seat frames in to it and selling it as a roller. Of course those funds went to building the worn out 5.7L in my 94 GMC K2500 into a 383.

Still undecided on which rear to use but do have another 9in posi should I go that direction.
Now I need to locate a chassis or a set of 32 rails .........