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Technical 55 royal build, or how to build on a budget and not get put on the couch by your wife.

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Cmac79, Mar 29, 2015.

  1. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    I took that at one of my rigs.
    Thought it was a cool pic.
    Yea, a play on "black gold" I guess.
     
    270dodge likes this.
  2. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    Might reduce things to where the crank might turn though.....
     
  3. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    Yes I agree that if he could get 3 or 4 out and remove the timing chain he might be able to turn it.
     
  4. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    Has anybody got one on an engine stand backwards?
     
  5. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    Better than the engine stand just put it upside down on a heavy cardboard. Do not mix up the lifters as they must go back in the original holes.
     
  6. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    If he's going to reuse the OEM can & lifters, but where it's been sitting so long I's @ least go with new lifters, or new lifters & cam.
     
  7. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    I agree with you George but I think that we are looking at a minimal rebuild to see if that dinosaur tranny will work. That is why I offered the .001 or .002 bearings so as to save grinding the crank. Anyway roll her upside down and go at it that way.
     
  8. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    Thanks for the offer 270!
    I'll keep it in mind for sure.
    I've been getting hammered at work and have t had the time to get it flipped over and look at the bottom end.
     
  9. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    Oh shit I had forgotten about the work as I have been retired for about a decade :D.
    I do not miss work, 50 years is more than enough. I'll help all that I can to get this Mopar custom running.
     
    Cmac79 likes this.
  10. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    Well I got her torn down.
    I'm not sure exactly what had it locked up though. No rust and rings are still shiny.
    Cylinders look good. It looks like there is some bearing issues, some trash got in and possibly a main that was getting ready to go.
    Crank look ok except one main is a little scored.
    Once I got the rods loose she spun easy.
    What do you guys think?
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1428976954.945329.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1428976973.911915.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1428976992.144681.jpg
     
  11. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    That black on the caps looks like a chatter huh?
     
  12. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

  13. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1428977764.916307.jpg
    I take that back, this cylinder has some rust and I can see where the rings sat.
    Also there is a small "gouge" hard to see in the pic.
    Fuck.
    It's not real bad ,about a quarter sized "rough spot"
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2015
  14. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Small rust pits are a minor matter if they are not big enough to snag the rings. Pits will soon fill with carbon and polish smooth.

    An old timer told me this. During WW2 when cars, trucks and parts were in short supply he rebuilt an International truck that had been left outside with the head off. The cylinders were pitted with rust but he cleaned them up, honed them and installed new rings. The motor burned oil for a while but soon settled down, stopped burning oil and ran great. A few years later he had it apart for a valve job and found the pits filled with carbon, cylinders smooth and making a perfect seal.

    If the cylinders are not worn too bad, pistons ok, and it is a budget job it may be worth considering.
     
    welderup! likes this.
  15. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Had a similar situation with a 72 Chev pickup. It had been out of commission for years and we got the motor unstuck and running well but it burned oil. After driving it for a year or so the owner brought it back for an overhaul. We found the rings stuck in the pistons and each cylinder had rings of rust exactly where the rings had sat.

    We honed the cylinders installed new rings and bearings and it ran like new and did not burn oil. Even though you could still see the marks in the cylinders.

    On the other hand a vertical gouge is a more serious matter, don't think there is any way to fix that short of boring the cylinder. Slight scratches may hone out but not deep gouges
     
  16. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,204

    73RR
    Member

    Back in hi-school, the group I ran with were all poor folks and having a running rig was paramount so weekend rebuilds were pretty common. Amazingly enough, some of them turned out quite well.
    Polish the crank (with some luck it will still be round), put in new bearings and rings and go for it. Given the
    nature of the project I'd re-use the cam and lifters unless you find any suspect lobes...look very carefully.

    .
     
    Cmac79 likes this.
  17. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    I agree, hit it with a hone and see how it looks. Unless it's got a big ring ridge I'd do rings bearings oil pump timing chain lap the valves and new valve seals. Fresh coat of paint and call it good.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2015
    Cmac79 likes this.
  18. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    Well I "have" a rebuild kit.
    Supposedly a master kit.
    I'm just waiting for it to get here, and it's free basically.
    Trading some labor .
    It's supposed to have pistons rings, springs.. The works.
     
  19. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    I have used a rawhide strap about 1/4 or 3/8 wide 3 or 4 feet long with a piece of fine emery cloth torn so that it just fits the journal's width and long enough to make 1 1/2 or 2 wraps. Oil the emery, pull the strap back and forth. You'll find that you can control the strap to go evenly back and forth across the journal.

    Mains
    Diameter
    2.3745 to 2.3755< /TR>
    Maximum Allowable Out of Round
    . 001
    Maximum Allowable Taper
    .001
    Center Bearing Run-Out ( total indicator reading )
    When Supported at Front and Rear Main Bearing

    .002

    Crankpin Journals
    Diameter

    1.9365 to 1.9375< /TR>
    Length
    1 13/16
    Maximum Allowable Out-of-Round
    . 001
    Maximum Allowable Taper
    .001
     
    Cmac79 likes this.
  20. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    Good info thanks!
    I got a cheapy harbor freight caliper.
    I'll check it out.

    My dad was a drag racer. We ran a bbc 468, we'd do bearing every season and I remember he'd "polish" out finger nail grabbers on the crank with sandpaper.
    We twisted that big block to 8 grand regularly until it finally spit a rod out the side of the block.
     
  21. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    I have reread my post about polishing the crank and I failed to say that the rawhide should be wrapped around the emery 2 times, Now you can walk it evenly across the journal. Old-timers disease.
     
  22. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    For polishing journals you use crocus cloth and a leather boot lace. Do not use emery that is too coarse it will scratch.

    Cylinders ok up to .007 taper. If piston is loose have it knurled. An old time auto machinist will know what that means.
     
  23. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    I've been thinking about the direction I'm going to take the car.
    No trim. Flat blue ,white roof. Black walls with the stock hubcaps I found in the trunk.
    Lowered 3".
    My wife does leather work and I have her looking into hand tooled door panels.
    Basically the "theme" will be clean and simple.
    I have some days off starting Saturday and I'm going to hit it hard and make some progress.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
    270dodge likes this.
  24. I saw a '56 - '57 red & white ragtop at the Back to the Fifties in St Paul a couple of years ago that had a late model 5.7 Hemi. It looked really good. I had seen the car there in other years but a couple of years ago he dropped the Hemi in it and had the hood open for the world to see. It was a really nice ragtop to beginning with and then WOW !
     
  25. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    Cmac. I'm liking the direction you are picking. What type of blue are you thinking? A dark, light, navy?
    Hand tooled leather, love it!

    Please, keep us updated. Maybe start your own build thread. I'll be the first to subscribe.

    Tim
     
  26. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    Yea my wife is pretty good with the leather stuff. She's just never done a door panel sized piece though and getting it mounted and all that.
    I'm lookin at a darker blue I think. Something like this.
    Can I just turn this thread I to a "build thread? Not familiar with the rules of engagement here.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1429284546.920273.jpg
     
  27. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    That color is perfect! Maybe a cream roof instead of stark white. Then lay some pin stripes on it. That would be awesome.


    Maybe just change the title and you'll be cool. I'm new here too.
     
  28. You should be able to change or just
    add to the title and keep this thread going
     
  29. Cmac79
    Joined: Mar 29, 2015
    Posts: 70

    Cmac79
    Member

    I've put some elbow grease in this block and I've decided it's going to have to be vatted.
    So, I'm building a "vat"
    Headed out to get a 50 lb sack of caustic and some citric acid.
    I'll get the ph to a 14 or so in a drum and let the block sit for a day. Same with the heads.
    I'll use citric acid to knock the ph back down to a 7 and be able to safely handle the water.
     
  30. Man, it's your thread, steer it where ya want! Start posting pictures of the build and carry on. Looking forward to see where this one goes.
     

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