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Technical Clear coating old paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fender1325, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. captainbob
    Joined: Nov 12, 2012
    Posts: 48

    captainbob
    Member
    from Georgia

    How about the mass of rat rods that are just sanded lightly and then clear coated over rust and old paint? I say, do what you want, it's your car.
    Bob
    http://www.bobsretrophobia.com/
     
    Fender1325 likes this.
  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Bob, you should know better than to mention those things around here. 3 laps around the block for you as a reminder :D
     
  3. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    Well guys ultimately it comes down to budget. We do the best with what we can to keep these old beauties running.

    Question: whats the best way to clear over this, doesnt have to be show quality just decent, more for protection.

    Answer: strip everything, weld in new metal, body filler, sand, prime, repaint and reclear.
     
  4. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Clean up the rusty areas, prep it with Flood Penetrol, then paint with a rattle can of a similar shade of blue. Cheap and dirty quick improvement over the current problems
     
  5. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Fender1325 likes this.
  6. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    you say youre on a budget. Whats more budget friendly?
    6 bucks a year for a can of turtle wax,
    or
    300 for a gallon of clear, 100 for a decent gun, 150 for a used air compressor 100 for tape and paper to tape it off, and another 100 or so to buff it out?
     
    da34guy likes this.
  7. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I don't agree with clearing this car, it really needs some attention and repainted. That being said as a professional painter I would wash it down with wax a grease remover, then sand it with 1000 wet dry sand paper. Then test the paint at the bottom of a panel in a small area with lacquer thinner to see if the color comes off heavy, then your dealing with lacquer, or the color comes off lightly or not at all, then your dealing with acrylic enamel. I would use a compatible clear sealer then 2- 3 coats of clear coat.
     
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  8. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    100 for tape and paper?! Where are you shopping? Ive waxed this car 3 times over the past few months. Doing this by hand on a large car for results that last about 1-2 weeks has gotten old.

    Plus, I was talking about a few cans of rattle can clear. I dont need a pro job, just some sheen to last.
     
  9. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    For whatever its worth the little wax pad that comes with the wax turns a darker shade of the color of the paint when I wax it. Whatever clear was there is virtually gone. The car has been repainted once I know, but it must have been a very long time ago.
     
  10. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    Question: if I got crazy and was able to strip this car...whats a good method other than sand blasting? Sand blasting is just not an option right now. Flap disc on an angle grinder okay?
     
  11. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,335

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I used to have a small sandblaster that was called a Vacula. It was great for small areas, and vacuumed up the media that was used in it. It also did not require massive amounts of air to operate.
     
  12. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,270

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    No you don't use an angle grinder on this, unless you want to do some damage to the substarte of your car.
    How about paint stripper, and a DA sander, with not too agressive paper grit. Even a palm sander can be used if you don't have a decent compressor with enough CFM to drive a Dual Action sander.
    Or scuff, and sand and prep those areas that need attention shoot on a 2k epoxy sealer and paint with a single stage 2 k urethane or acrylic enamel topcoat from say TCP Global, or prep and take it to Maaco, or something similar...good luck keep us posted
     
    Fender1325 likes this.
  13. Rattle can clear ????// You need to get another hobby buddy. Sell the car and get into maybe "underwater basket weaving"
     
  14. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325



    precisely what I'm talking about. To hell with all the naysayers here. As for you da34guy, do me a favor and get into maybe "perfume scent testor at the bottom of the ocean" buddy
     
  15. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    100 for tape and paper,,, shop at any paint shop! good tape isnt free. Taping off all that chrome (im sure you dont plan to take it off and do it right) will take a while.

    Car in the video,,,, looks like shit, will look even worse in a month or 2. single stage enamel you can pick up a gallon for decent price
     
    Ford52PU likes this.
  16. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    p.s. 10 cans of Krylon clear at 13 a can plus tax... still not cheap
     
  17. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    13 dollars a can for krylon clear? Seriously.....I dont know where you shop but you're getting ripped off. THOROUGHLY.

    You also seem to be missing the point. This is for protection, and a sheen that will last longer than my wax has been, and look decent from 20 feet. Sure, paint will cover rusty spots, but its not going to add sheen. If I go through the trouble of painting, Im going to strip and do it right at that point.

    I got my info that I needed.
     
  18. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,270

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    Well, it is your car, and ya'll can fix her as you like, and there isn't anything wrong with that.
    My advice, is take a good look at the situation, make a plan and try it out, do the hood, or a door, and see what you have , before taking on the entire car.
    Infact piecemeal , might not be a bad idea on this car, as she is a big ole girl lot of surface area that is.
    So maybe do a panel at a time, once you are sure of the method and material you are comfortable with. If and when you want the "real deal", then she can be stripped back to bare steel, all filler work, epoxy primer, 2 k urethane primer/surfacer, topcoats etc.
    So make a plan and follow through, do the 1 panel or small test are and see what you have, and ake it from there.....good luck
     
    Fender1325 likes this.
  19. I'll tend to agree with the skeptics about clearing over old paint. You see it done to preserve 'patina' but I don't see that as what you're trying for here; you're looking for a shine that doesn't need constant attention.

    You might try one of the 'poly sealers' (ok, they're not actually wax) like you used to see advertised on TV. They weren't as good as they claimed, but will 'bring back' an aged finish better than just wax will IMO. And if you don't use hot water and strong soap on it, it will keep a decent shine for 3-4 months, maybe longer. Rattle-can clear won't do any better than that, and you're spared the need to mask anything. I used to use this on my motorhome's dried-out colored fiberglass and was the only product I found that would put a shine on it that lasted any time. It actually seems to work better if the surface you're applying it to is 'rough'/dull, so I wouldn't rub it out beforehand, just wash and apply. The first application is hard work, if you keep it up later ones aren't so hard.
     
  20. Terraizer
    Joined: Jul 18, 2006
    Posts: 521

    Terraizer
    Member

    Clearing over that rust is not going to stop it and will not prevent it from getting worse, the rust areas need to be stripped and treated. If you clear over that rust it will look okay for a few months and then it will be doing the same thing it currently is doing and look even worse. Around here the good masking tape and paper to do a complete car correctly will run you in the $100-120 range, not talking the walmart stuff that is for doing homes.
     
  21. Pockets
    Joined: Jan 12, 2015
    Posts: 6

    Pockets

    What if you buy a DA Polisher? Get a few different grit pads for it and just try to polish what you have left. I got my polisher off Amazon for $140.ish
     
  22. This is your answer.
     
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  23. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,270

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    As Fordor Ron has quoted, this may be your best approach, at least for the interim.
    Fix her up as best you can, drive and enjoy, keep her clean and out of the elements whenever possible.
    Now you ain't driving down snowy, slushy salty roads, which could rust this ole girls girdle right off her in no time. heck she has been oxidizing and rusting for 60 plus years, so she ain't going to turn into rust dust for a while yet....
     
    39 Deluxe likes this.
  24. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    I need to replace the rockers, patch the floors a little and trunk a little. Everything else appears to be solid. I know rust is always worse when you strip paint, but structurally everything is solid when i push or knock on it
     
  25. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    Theres nothing left really.
     
  26. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    I might hit the rough spots with some of that primer that converts rust somehow. This is just temporary
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  27. 39 Deluxe
    Joined: Nov 9, 2014
    Posts: 68

    39 Deluxe
    Member

    I wouldn't let the naysayers scare you off. We can't all be Chip Foose with unlimited capital and skills to spend on a car that we love but will never be a collectible. I'm in the same boat and mine is a lot more rusty than yours. I'm shining up what original paint is left with a diesel soaked dirty rag. Maybe try the clear coat option you are talking about on mine too. Its an old family car with 40 years of "patina". I'll get it undercover, protect what paint is left, get it driveable. And if that is as far as I ever get that is fine too. I'll have fun doing it and that is the main thing. Good luck to you.
    [​IMG]
     
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  28. Martin Harris
    Joined: Aug 3, 2014
    Posts: 328

    Martin Harris

    Some sandpaper, a rattlecan of primer, and a rattlecan of "best match" color coat. Patch it up as best you can, at least you've dealt with the rust to some degree and the car will look better for it. We're not going for perfection here, just some visual improvement, right?
    Other than the above suggestion, I'd simply enjoy it as it is. I don't believe clearcoat would help unless you're prepared to go the whole way and do a full paintjob.
    Whatever advice you end up taking, show us some "after" pics mate. It's a cool machine anyhow.:)
     
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  29. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

  30. oldsroller
    Joined: Jan 3, 2007
    Posts: 125

    oldsroller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from PA

    Rattle can clear will only stay glooy awhile and then it will look worse. I have seen it done before. Your rusted areas need a lttle clean, rust convertor, and then go to real local automotive paint store. Most have a "camera" that reads the paint, get them to mix a rattle can of paint. It will be a good way to get you through til you can afford to do it right. You ought to be able to touch it up for around $50 or so. Still won't be shiny but will protect what you got.
     
    Martin Harris likes this.

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