I am new to the forum looking for some help with ideas for a front end on my 35 chevy 3 window coupe that was restored in the 70s. I have been looking around different threads and photos trying to determine what frame my all steel body is setting on. I want to start a father son project and put a new front end on this car and I am not sure what to order. I have been told it is a 50 chevy truck although I have not found a picture that looks the same as what I have. I am having problems loading photos to my album I get a file to large error? I have tried to upload from dropbox, iPhoto and my desktop. I have attached URL from photo bucket i hope that will work. I would be Very grateful for any suggestion. [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG]
You should be able to open your photos on your computer and select "edit" and resize. The error you are getting is due to the files being too large to upload to this forum.
I hope this works. I have been trying to upload for two hours. Thank you for the help with the photos!
I have attached some photos of my frame, do you recognize it? I want to order a bolt on mustang 2 but need to know what frame I have. Thanks again for the info on the photo uploads.
Nice Chevy, welcome to the site. Good luck with your father - son project. Follow this link for more info on your 35 Chevy. It has images of a 35 frame. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...information-kits/Chevrolet/1935-Chevrolet.pdf
Yep...that's a stock frame. One of these days I'll quit my day job and stop doing cars on the side and get back to my '34 Town Sedan (pics in albums).
Here's a couple of crapy pics I just grabbed with my phone. Right hook, so a little different. Maybe the truck part you mentioned is your steering box where it goes through the frame?
No steering issues, I have just read a lot about the mustang 2 and thought the bolt on would be the easiest for my son and I to do. I have no preferences. I wanted to give the car a lower front end look. The way it is setting now the front finders and grill are shimmed up so they don't set on the front of the frame. I just have the hood setting on the top for the photo, it dose not fit right because of the shim job. Thanks for the reply.
here is a picture of a 33 front frame. shackles in the front like the one kiwijeff posted. frame looks the same but not the spring set up.
I am pretty sure there have been some mods made on this car, I just cant figure out what they are. Body is in very good shape but the front grill and fenders have been shimmed so the fender don't hit the front of the frame? I cant figure it out. I have been driving it around with it the way it is but if I start on the new front end I want the hood to fit correctly. There is a ton of knowledge on this site it has been very helpful. The only way I can see how I get the front fenders and grill to match the body is to cut the front portion of the frame and go with a Mustang 2 kit?
the bracket coming off the side of the grill shell to the frame is not right. i can not tell from the photo but does the grill shell have a "harp" that runs from one side of the shell to the other? are there two bolts holding it to the frame in the middle?
The problem with your front fenders not sitting in place is they don't have the notch to allow the front frame horns to come through. You can see the notch on the front fenders of my '34 just before the transition to the "apron". You fenders appear to be aftermarket fiberglass or reworked to eliminate the notch.
Unavailable!! I just ran out to the shop and looked. The fenders are all steel but looks like someone has filled in the notch. Not sure why but mystery solved. I have been trying to figure this out for 5 years just decided to ask for some help. I cannot thank you all enough. I need to decide what to do with the front end?. I can have the notch put back in the fenders. I can see where the notch was on the back of the fender. Thanks again.
The axle, steering box, and drag link looks like whats on my 50 chevy truck, but the drag link looks like it's been lengthened.
That's the great thing about the HAMB...collectively, there's a huge collection of knowledge and experience. Personally, I prefer the notch to the smoothed off fenders. It's less "streetrod"-ish and necessary to leave leave the frame horns if you want to run a bumper. You'll notice mine doesn't have the horns showing - because someone had cut the original frame in front of the firewall to use a front end that would not work (Camaro front stub). It currently has front rails from a '38 Plymouth with a mustang II, but I recently picked up a stock frame which I'll be redoing and putting under there instead. Keep us posted with updates!
Looks like a truck frame, nothing like my OEM frame with lever actions and not telescopic shocks. Bar castings on front of frame looks different again. I'll post some frame specs when back from holidays.
Thank you, that would be a big help, I really think the last owner said it was a 1950 truck frame although it does resemble the original frame. I want to order a new bolt on mustang 2 kit or something my son and I can handle the install on but can't pin down what frame is used. I have looked at the 1935 chevy coupe specs and this front end does not match. I am wondering if it was possible he replaced the knee action with shocks? My father purchased the car 37 years ago and stored it driving only a few times. I have tried to contact the guy that restored in the 70s with no luck. I would sure like to see your pics. Thank you
It's a Standard model, so it wouldn't have knee action when new. There are supposed to be notches in the lower frt fenders to allow the frame horns to protrude. that is where the bumpers attach. I don't think it's a truck frame. I have a Standard sedan. (coach) Nice looking old Chevy, BTW
one thing for absolute certain, that is not a 1950 Chevrolet truck frame, so you can just put that thought to rest.
Stock frame, the tube shocks have been added and the steer gear has been changed. The original steer gear mounts on top of the frame. Not easy to lower in the front. MII can get it nice and low but not traditional.
'31-32 Chevy frames are very similar w/straight rails in front like yours'. So, that's an application you could use. Or, just send your beam axle out to have dropped.
This is some great info, I kick myself for not joining this site years ago. I have the stock frame measurements and am going check them tonight. I am very excited to get started after trying to figure this front end out. Seems like someone scabbed together the front end. It worked well for along time. I am trying to decide whether to have the frame notches put back end the fenders and get a drop axle or go forward with the Mustang 2. I am ok with the ride as it is but like the idea of a new front end, Any thoughts?
This is a 34 chassis comparison. Ladder style construction. 35 passenger has a an x-member centre section, 34 and 35 Masters have a K-member centre section. This [single] is a modified front frame horn bar casting and flat in design. Note that I've welded up the centre boss areas where the spring shackles originally mounted, parallel leafs front and rear. The rear bosses [double] have more shape due to downward arc of rear frame rails. The centre boss itself is parallel to the ground when mounted with the bars bolting directly to flanged ends. Compare with your frame and bar bosses as well as measurements.
Mgtstumpy those bumper brkts that are the ones I need for my 35 standard.Are you going to use them Thanks
I believe that I may have a spare set of rears in the shed and will look tomorrow and let you know. The fronts are on the car now.
Looks like a late '34 to '35 Standard frame- earlier '34s had the ladder style frame, later has the x-member. I have a Mustang II type front end under my '34 with a late '34 x-member type frame. I used a Heidt's crossmember but took an extra 1.5 inches out of where it welds horizontally to the frame, and have 2 inch dropped spindles. The front fender apron, below the grille, is about 3" inches from the ground. I have full fenders, but I like the fenderless look. If I was running fenderless I'd put in a streetrod replacement Model A front crossmember with a reversed eye front spring, dropped axle and Vega cross steer ( and all the associated parts).
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