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Projects '32 flattened frames???

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by vtwhead, Dec 21, 2014.

  1. Bear with me here guys. Learning my way slowly around this 32 frame with a 31 coupe body. Picked this project up from another member here a while back and am now finally getting to work on it. I have a 32 repop frame that is not pinched. Checked it with the Wescott frame dimensions and it is 32 inches at the firewall. I plan on pie cutting the firewall to get it to set a bit lower and flat on the frame in the front. The frame has a gentle curve in it and is not flat as in the stock A frame which begs the question as to what is the typical direction most take to mount the body to the frame since this is not a flattened aftermarket frame. The body has the original sub frame in the front section. The rear has been replaced to fit the contour of the new frame which I am not terribly happy with (I am anal my friends say) so I may cut that out and make my own.
    I have been following similar threads and posts but don't see what most do to the fill the space between the frame and the body from the front mount back to the kick in the frame. The top of this boxed frame has never had nuts inserted for tying down the body. Rather it has brackets lightly attached (for the moment) along the inside of the rails to tie the sub rails to in order to fasten the body down. This seems a departure from what I have seen in other builds. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Back before there were flattened frames, guys would cut a filler strip, usually from wood to fill the gap. I'm sure by now some have made something from sheet metal or? Various ways to mount the body, sounds like you need to do that they way you invision it. Tim
     
  3. Noland
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,235

    Noland
    Member

    I think alot of it has to do with the look your trying to achieve. some people do a mini channel so the body sits down over the frame like a 32 would and rework or make new subrails to follow the frame. Then bolt straight down threw into the frame with as you stated with nuts in the frame. This is what I did on my 31 while others let the body sit on top the frame to get more of a model A on deuce frame look and shim the space with wood. this seems to be more of a practice with the earlier 28-29 style. Im no expert but this seems to be the things Ive seen done. You could also build the top of the frame flat with some metal. When I did my 31 I didnt have any subrails so I built new ones to match the top of the frame using 2x1 rectangle tube. Good luck with your project.
     
  4. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,397

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I've done several of these in the past and I do them a little different. First I get the back modifications done so the rear fits the frame and with that tacked in case I have to make changes I start at the front of the cowl above the bead and cut out a pie slice back to the door dropping the cowl down so the body sits on the frame giving the cowl from the door forward a slight upward curve like the cowl on a deuce. This works with a 2 inch shortened Walker radiator and a deuce shell giving the hood top the proper downward slope from the cowl. If you could find a picture I did this when I built the 2004 NSRA Yellow 31 Roadster PU giveaway truck.
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2014
    xderelict and lothiandon1940 like this.

  5. 0407sr_nsra_01_z.jpg

    Gary,I remember that truck. HRP
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2014
    sko_ford and lothiandon1940 like this.
  6. thanks for the input fellas. At the moment I think I will install nuts in the top of the frame to tie the body down. From there I will see what I have when I get the body tied down. May do the wood spacers but I am certain the my "builder mentor" will want to flatten the frame. Lots to do....keep you posted.
     
  7. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Mess with the body, don't flatten the frame! Quite honestly, a flatten Deuce frame is one of those things that quickly makes a car look "artificial". You can never quite tell why it doesn't look right, just that it doesn't, 'till you really look. I have seen several '30-'31s where they have widened the lower part of the fire wall an inch and just channeled it the depth of the kick, and they look very good. Truth be told though, Krylon's answer is what I would do.
     
    missysdad1 likes this.
  8. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 584

    flthd31
    Member

    If your"mentor" wants to flatten the frame, you need to find another mentor. It will look wrong.

    The guys above have given you good advice. You just need to modify the cowl subrail and leg to lower the front of the body. Mine needed a lower cowl patch so I put it on at an upswept angle. Gives you the same result as pie-cutting as Krylon did.
    As mentioned, a 2 inch chopped radiator goes along with this. It will make the grill sit right where it should in relation to the cowl top angle.

    cowl leg_045.JPG
     
  9. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
    Member

    Okay, so what if you're going to use a '28 - '29 shell and radiator? Will it need to be cut, or is the 2" trim just for Deuce shells because they are too high anyway?
     
  10. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Nope, the radiator will have to be a bit shorter even with the '28-'29 shell. The tiny bit of kick up in the front rails of deuce frame mean that by the time all is said and done, the radiator and shell mount about an 1 1/2" higher than they do on a straight "A" type frame.

    My advice is always the same, I never order a radiator on a non-stock body frame combo or high boy until the grill shell height is established. Get the car together with the wheels and tire intended for use, roll it where you can step back and look at it (go 40' minimum), prop the grill shell up where it should be and straight, grab some tape and make "hood", and step back and look. Trim and drop grill shell and repeat as many times as takes to look good! Simple!

    Then and only then is it time to order a radiator.
     
    missysdad1 likes this.
  11. Gary Addcox
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 2,528

    Gary Addcox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bud Bryan, editor for I believe Rod & Custom, used a strip of wood to fill the gap on his '29. There was a feature done on this build, and Julian Alvarez now owns the black Highboy.
     
  12. I have the R&C's that covered the '29 highboy build. If you want, I'll get the dates for you. they covered quite a span of time. By now, you may be able to google the info. Tim
     
  13. Guess I will put the body back on the frame with the radiator and shell to see what it looks like. All of this was purchased by the OB and I do not know what was ordered per se! My suspicion is that it will be a bit too high! Will fix this as we move along. Lots to do....thanks for all the input.
     
  14. Ghardingjr
    Joined: Jun 3, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Ghardingjr
    Member

    Here's s few pictures of the cowl feet on a modal A we put on 32 rails. As you can see in the pics to get it to sit flat I had to cut 5/8"-3/4" out at the front and pie cut back. Brought the bottom up flat and cut off the extra that was protruding below. Weld up and you're done.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1419341182.665707.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1419341198.920027.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1419341310.970153.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  15. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
    Member

    So...by trimming the cowl and cutting the shell and radiator to match you'd be visually dropping the nose 1 1/2 to 2 inches without modifying the suspension. Sounds like a heck of a deal to me.
     
  16. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Yupper! And, that is the secret to most of the "sneakier" looking "A" on '32 rails that are running around.

    There are many ways that these cars are built, but there are always some that just grab ya and knock your socks off, and others that you just kinda look at. Honestly, I find the ones that grab ya by the jaggons and scream "look at me!", are the same cars that guys have spent silly hours on the body mounting and grill shell/hood fitting. It might be in old, beat paint, or primer, or anything but shiny, but if the car's profile is right, and it's stance and wheels and tire are right, the car is right!
     
    missysdad1 likes this.
  17. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Just get it back together, and make sure it's in an area where you can step wayyyyyyy back. get your wheels and tires, and sit and look. If you already have a radiator, you can have a new core put in to drop it, or sell it outright and order what you need. It sucks, but it is key to making stuff look right. Building hot rods is seldom a "bolt together" deal, and lots of guys don't get that. Sometimes it takes an extra bit of crazy to make it "just right" when your brain is screaming "we could be done".... Go the extra mile and you'll be greatly awarded.
     
    missysdad1 likes this.
  18. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,714

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I agree with need louvers, it's all in the proportions and getting things to fit right. You can spend mega bucks and time on a car, but if you don't take the time with the little stuff to get everything in proportion, it will always look "off".
     
  19. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,254

    brady1929
    Member

    Some great info here, that one day I will need too.
     
  20. I just made a wedge out of wood. It goes from about 3 inch or so back from the front of the firewall to under the first cross member under the body. This way the body sits fairly tight and there is support under the first body cross member so that the body will not flex up and down as you are sitting in the car. With a Roadster body if this is not supported it will pinch the hell out of your arm if it is over the gap between the door and the body.
     

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