Technical ***Santa's Banger Sleigh: December 2014 Banger Meet***

My wife is an artist. This was her idea. She said to tell you the ladder was hard to decorate because she had to climb a small pine tree.

The "little mechanic" is me

 

Gotta be straight from the "Rose Suchak Ladder" Company

Merry Christmas Jim!

 

1950's Czech

Thank you

 

What exactly did the instructions say ? You could always call the supplier. This is not a place to take short cuts or try to save a little cash.

 

There is no instructions, bolts, holes are not tapped in the bell or anything else I can use for reference.
It's most likely the first Model A 904 adaptor in Australia. I guess it's not even common in the states.
I would love to be proven wrong and if anyone has experience in fitting one of these kits I would love to here from you.
I was going to purchase the kit that used the T350/400/700 autos that included everything including instructions but after a "interesting" reply to a email question I sent to the manufacture, I have no intention of ever purchasing from that company.
Will keep working with this $500usd kit and make it work


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I have an oil leak from the rear of the Camshaft "bearing" hole, between the block and the Flywheel Housing. I did install the gasket (I thought correctly) and the two Horseshoe shims at the top, and torqued evenly. (The Engine is a Model A Block, with a Miller Overhead and is pressurized)

This method of sealing the camshaft hole seems to have worked for may years, with many different set-ups, but I was curious if anyone else had this problem. I haven't had this peoblem with my other set-ups, and it may be that the rear of the block might not have been completely true.

My question is has anyone ever tried machining the rear of the block to install a seal or another method providing a more positive seal? I know there isn't much space or material to do this, but wondered if it has been tried.

Thanks for any thoughts, just curious. Bob

 

Bob,

There are a couple possible issues here;
You mention the motor is pressurized, is the cam also pressure fed?
If so, there may not be a drain back for the oil and the gasket cannot hold back the pressure. Could be blocked also.
I do not use the gasket between the housing and block nor those little shims. (I have non-PC descriptions of these shims)
I use tubular gasket, silicone material directly. Clean the surfaces, apply a small amount of silicone and bolt together. The back of the block should be plenty true and the housing should "conform" if it is not true.

John

 

I was going to say that it looked like you! But, I didn't want to say.
You and Sophie have a comfortable holiday season. Tell her that her "tree" is a GREAT idea!

Incidentally, I just "scored" another Herbert Johnson helmet (from the UK) . That'll be in addition to the one I bought and wore as a kid. With those and my ancient Ratti goggles, my wife and I can dress up and BOTH look like Fangio!

 

John,

Thanks for the feedback. I will take it apart after Christmas, and Will find the problem. I'm sure I made some type of mistake.

Bob

 

Is this setup old news or do we want to know more ? ....and hope Santa comes to see ya.....

 

I machined the back of the block to accept a 1 3/4 dished type freeze plug. Nobody here gets Secrets of Speed Magazine? I'm wondering what was the last issue mailed?

 

I have the instructions for that kit somewhere's, if I can locate I will send to you . If not I will send you a contact for the individual that makes a kit.


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October 2014 is the latest issue I have.
I machine a piece of Aluminum to fit the rear of the cam bore on pressurized engines and smear a little #2 permatex around it and assemble with no gasket or shims.

 

Thanks for the info, the B engine in my A is supposed to be a low mileage Jay Taylor built with a lot of stuff done to it. At least that's what is on the build sheet that came with all the receipts I got with the car. Some of what was done, I don't understand, because I am still new to bangers. I changed the header gaskets and found a crack in the block, so I don't know for sure without dropping the pan to see what's in there. It runs good, lots of power, doesn't smoke or over heat. Just leaks oil.




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I normally machine 1/4 " off the back of the camshaft and install a welsh plug (freeze plug)

 

merry xmass everyone as we are first to catch the sun we are a day before most of you.Wishing you and your families All the best for the coming year.

 

Merry Christmas everyone, best wishes for 2015. Bob

 

Merry Christmas from coolidge,AZ

 

Merry Christmas to all, may everyone have a truly amazing day!

 

Greetings - Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all! Is there anyone out there that is currently running a "Dan Price" 4 port OHV head in their model A' ? If so, are you using 94 or 97 down draft carbs on the stock intake manifold supplied by Dan with the head: will they fit under a stock hood, or did you need to cut a hole into the hood in order to clear the carbs intake either with or w/o an air cleaner? If I converted the supplied log intake manifold to side drafts ( 1953 Corvette Carter side drafts) would the inlet portion of the carbs body fit under the hoods hinge of the top hood section where the top & side panels meet, and exit through the hoods side panel?
I have a new Rootleb hood coming for the car and am seriously considering buying one of the 4 port heads that Dan currently sells, but I am trying to end run any clearance issues that might come up prior to paying for this and I don't want to end up with a hood that I can't use or a head that will not fit under the hood that I have committed to buy ! Thanks in advance, Steve 708-687-4183

 

Prolly a good question for Dan Price!!

 

A Buddy of mine ran one at ElMirage a couple years ago. 2 97's fit under the hood, not sure about air cleaners.
Beat the bottom end to death, bent crank and a host of other problems. It did not window the block and was rebuilt.

It is a good performing head, be careful to not rev it higher than the bottom end can withstand.
If you drive it on the street you will be fine, occasional hill climb, good. El Mirage or Bonneville, better buy some bottom end insurance.

John

 

From the photo I've seen the carburetors on the Dan Price head are closer to the head than 2 97's on the usual aftermarket dual manifold so I doubt that the carburetors would interfere with a stock hood IMO !!


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Not only that, if an A or B "Banger is run much more than 3000 to 3500 r.p.m for any period of time; it is best to put a harmonic damper of the nose of the crank!

 

Ok, I have read a lot of posts referring to a harmonic balancer, both good & bad opinions, but there have been no names /addresses / phone numbers posted of anyone that makes them or sells them on the open market? A great part or service that isn't available.... is it really that good, or is it only a legend in our own minds?

 

Thanks for your PM. I'm making one that Crazydaddyo describes in the March- April Banger posts. Have not tried it yet but expect it should be worth the effort. I'm waiting for my Oct SOS issue. I think I'll have to email Charlie.

 

IMHO, the balancer is just a Band-Aid. Some swear by them, if it works for you then Bravo!
The motor I mentioned above had the balancer from Jay Steel, which is a very good unit/nicely done.
It did not stop the pulley from being shaken off of it. Or the flywheel, carbs, alternator.

Now, same balancer is on another motor, is constantly revved above 5k and data has indicated a missed shift at about 6300. (the rev limiter caught it)

John

 

About the same time as the over head you mentioned came unglued I had a similar problem with my Winfield flathead. The flywheel and dampener both came loose and and the crank had some odd bends in it. This happened at around 4000 RPM's. The crank was/is a B ground into a stroker. I took it back to Castillo's in La Mirada as they had originally ground it. He tweaked back close enough so that a 010 .010 straightened it and brought it back to index. Now we are running a pulley and limit the revs to 3500 low and second.
Last S O S S I have is Oct 2014

 

When you guys say the Damper came loose, Did the crank bolt come loose ? Or did the damper come loose fit wise on the crank snout?

What was the fit like between the damper and the crank when it was installed?

Bill,
How did the flywheel come loose? where the bolts not wired?

.