Projects 37 ford truck running gear on a model a frame

need some help.will 37 ford truck running gear axle to axle motor and trans be made to fit under a model a frame? i can get the complete set-up and it runs.thinking it would look good under my 29 roadster. any info would be great.thanks

 

When you say 'truck' ...what size?

Apart from that you are dealing with two different wheelbases among other factors, so the key words are 'made to fit.' Yes, things can be made to fit. How well depends on you. It's not a simple 'just swap' deal. You sure should be able to use the major components, like the engine.

'Truck' gearbox and diff ratios aren't always good for cars.

 

Yes it can be done. Not an easy task, but what is. This is my chassis and it still has a stock A wheel base. Just have to think about what your doing and have a little talent. It will be getting my channeled 31 Roadster body.
The Wizzard

 

Looks like you did a little frame stretching.

I would tell the OP to use the motor, transmission, and spindles from the 37 truck and the springs, axles, and front wishbones from the Model A. He should also upgrade to 39-48 hydraulic brakes.

Lots of good info in this recent thread:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/first-attempt-av8-29-roadster-many-questions.928477/

Have the Model A front axle dropped and save the 37 rear axle and torque tube for a later upgrade if needed.

 

mine has 35 truck motor and trans model a front and rear with the 35 brakes on the a axles

 

x38- am thinking 1/2 ton.buddy of mine bought it now he dont want it.he paid $800.so if i do this might offer $500. I have to check again on size good point on the trans / rear end.

 

this is nice! looks like you rework the rear.what did the cross member come from? did you shorten the torque tube or move the motor forward? I like how your is going.the one i can get has artillery wheels and rings.i have an original body w/rumble seat. original "a" frame.did you have to channel it to set it on the chassis or you wanted too? i might be interested in how you channeled it.

 

looks good i like hoe you did you head lights.how does it drive?did you have to go with the model a gear? or was it what you had around? am thinking sense i have everything might as well use it.

 

Sure you can use the running gear but it might be easier to build a new frame, maybe than move and change the cross members.

The model A axles are both spring over and work with the crossmember locations. the 37 truck will be spring in front on the front and spring behind on the rear.

 

It drives good for what it is. I have a lot of fun in it . All stock A frame and front end with reversed eye spring and 35 truck mech brakes. the A rear was in good shape has new brakes and im not hard on it ,so it runs out good. It also bolts right up to the 35 trans I have the 35 rear to change it out to but its 10 spline i have to cut the drive shaft and toque tube to get it to work but prob want change it till i brake the A rear.

 

Cody; You asked specifically about using 37 Truck parts. I assumed you were talking about a standard 1/2 Ton. If 1/2 ton is the case what you see on mine is the same stuff. The choice was to build Channeled Roadster again, not the result of the chassis work. For myself I specifically did NOT want anything hand carved or built out of steel plate and tubing. I already had the body on a Z'd front and back frame with a Dropped A front axle. With the loss of trunk space and just plane not liking the over all look I went a different route. Now my floor is flat from toe board to rear crossmember. It's a Personal thing. I could have very easily hand built a new chassis but my Goal was to have everything Old Henry. The other thing is, everything about this Car is that it's built out of take off and discards from other Customers projects. I have gone shopping for NOTHING. That was my #1 goal. The rear axle is 1936 same as 1937 1/2 Ton. Yes I shortened the tube and shaft. The rear crossmember is narrowed and the frame is pinched to let the Body drop over. It don't need to be done if your setting body on top of rails. Yes I lengthen the frame but just enough for the added amount of front and rear spring offset. The wheel base is stock to Model A. The X member is 1936, again the same as 1937 1/2 Ton. The trans mounts are stock and so are the 1939 pedal unit. You can use the 1937 unit if you want. I took the dimple out of the Fire wall and have ample space behind the fuel pump. With the early dist. I can run a manual Fan with the Rad mounted in the stock mount holes. I HATE electric fans.
I don't seem to have photos of fan to Rad space. This is still a work in progress project. I hope this helped answer your question.
The Wizzard

 

Pist-n-broke, what are the motor mounts (frame side) from ?

 

Those are F-1 truck mounts with a little massage, but not much. That is also a AA truck front crossmember to fit the 2" front spring mounted back in the stock Model A position.
The Wizzard

 

So the motor and transmission are positioned where the A rear axle and torque tube placed them? Any pics of the front of the motor, showing fan clearance to the radiator, please? Did you also use the A steering box?

 

i dont have any pics but will get some,but with my 35 motor the water pumps and belt are closer to motor and fan was mounted on gen. so i have about 6 in between rad and motor and im working on a fan at the moment using a 46 fan mount mounted to my alt( having a gen fixed now to replace alt) mount will be driven of the gen with a short belt . yes i used the a box but had to been moved over 1 inch by the PO, he made a box on side of frame and moved it over for manifold to fit. kinda hokey to me but i have a f1 box im rebuilding and putting A model mount on it. Im going to fix frame back factory and mount it .

 

Wizzard- this is what i was thinking i have parts laying around too.I would need the cross member and motor mounts.guessing another front cross member because the 37 spring is wider.I have a 29 roadster body and frame.is it hard to shorten the tube and shaft?

 

Coody; There are a million different ways to mix and match the Old Ford parts. You could use the 37 front crossmember if you chose. It just wasn't what I wanted to do. You could split and widen your A crossmember, You could get a 1-3/4" spring made to fit the 37 bones and use a spacer on the shackel. Just remember, there are no rules and think about what your doing. The torque tube needs to be done like any other drive shaft. It's not hard if you have some machine shop access. I chose to re spline my stock inner shaft. Speedway has a cut to fit inner unit that will work if needed. You can run the Model A rear axle.
The Wizzard

 

ok-picking your brain here.am thinking of mounting the motor first. Getting motor mounts from speedway or would you install the radiator first and work your way back. I just looked at the cross member and it is bolted on so I could remove it split it bolt it back in or look for 1-3/4 spring.guessing swap meets for a cross member for the frame.thanks for your input sounds like you been doing this for a while right!!!! a lot of good info.

 

Been doing it for a while, yep. I'm closer to 70 than 60 and started before I could drive. So no matter what I tell you to do first there are a dozen other guys here that will tell you not to. You are the only one that knows what your abilitys are or how you want things to end up. Getting there is different for us all. Do you want to modify the fire wall or move the Rad? Make provisions accordingly. Clutch and brake pedal needs to clear the fire wall. Understand I have about 6.5" more space than you do. Where do you want give or make the change? Think about it, plan ahead. Just to help you visualize what I did to get here I'm attaching a photo of all the frame pieces I started with. Getting everything in place took some work. My way isn't the only way but it works for me.
The Wizzard

 

Engine will work fine, use the Tardel "How to build a traditional Ford hot rod" book. It explains it in there.

The gearbox and rear end, unless its a half ton and they are the same as passenger car.. i'd keep looking for those. The truck gearboxes are a 4 speed and i wouldn't bother with it. If the case looks like the one above, it's good.

As for the front end, the axle and wishbone are good to use and you can split the bones. This is an "if it were me" because this is how i did it, i used a '36 but its same same really.. wishbone but used a Model A spring, and perches and have mounted the spring above the axle. Keep the front crossmember stock. It all bolts up pretty easily with minor modifications.

 

I like how Pist-n-broke used the X member in the Model A chassis, however to me it looks like his wheelbase has been altered. It may not, i haven't read the entire threads worth of replies but if it were me, i'd keep it simple. Make some box section flathead mounts, keep the stock Model A crossmember and do a spring over setup like stock but use the later wishbone and axle and it'll be easy.

 

28A QUOTE "however to me it looks like his wheelbase has been altered." end of quote. What makes you say that?
The Wizzard

 

It's been a few years since I actually built the chassis so today, Sunday the 21st I took a tape measure to the car. Here are the numbers. Actual wheel base axle center to axle center 104.25" I do not remember what actual stock wheel base is. The car sits at loaded ride height with 2.5" of space between top of both front and rear axles and bottom of Frame rails. There is No step in the frame at all. My body is channeled 4.5". From my firewall that may not be the same as stock due to Mods is 34" to Rad mount holes in the front crossmember (that is on the frame rail). There is no rad. on the car right now so I can't tell you what it is from Top of cowel to grill shell.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks, I'd be using a '34 or '35 engine and 'box too. Not sure on steering yet - I have a '56 F100, or over here early Land Rover steering boxes are popular as they are sturdy and about the same size as the Ford but with an aluminium case and re-circulating balls.

 

Rem; Is there a specific reason for Boxing your frame?

 

P-n-B, am I confusing matters using 'box'? We call 'em gearboxes, you call 'em transmissions, so sometimes I use 'box, sometimes trans. That said, I was wondering about putting a formed channel inside the engine bay section to beef that area up, although as someone pointed out to me the other day, the Model A frame material is probably twice the thickness of the '32-'34 frame material. I actually have the centre X-member from a '34 so am thinking of trying to use that to give me the rear gearbox/transmission mount, front wishbone mount, pedals and also beefing things up a bit frame-wise. Similar to what you've done, I guess, but only using the front half of the X, and leaving the original A member behind it.

 

I say that only because it doesn't look like you've stretched the chassis at all, the rear crossmember looks like its in the stock place.. yet the rear end is forward of the crossmember with a spring behind setup. Model A's were spring over both front and rear..

 

Yes, I was confused. I thought you were going to Box (meaning using a steel plate) the front half of your frame. There really is no reason to beef up the motor section. Let it flex the way Henry designed it. Sounds like your doing just fine.
The Wizzard

 

I used 2 separate frame sections. One good front section and One good rear section making One joint of the Two pieces adding the necessary length over all.
The Wizzard

 

ok fixing to pick up 37 flat head front and rear end this weekend. Question- is there a kit or another fan I can use to lower the fan? how would you mount the motor? replace cross member on the model a frame with a 37 cross member? its been a while have other projects going on & ac work down here in Texas keeps one busy!!!! tks for all ya'll info makes more sense now with the above info!!!