Projects Early 32 roadster build with a bunch of questions!

I've noticed over the years you always like to chime in how your street rod is vastly superior to a traditional hot rod

But you never offer examples of why...

....It's like your trying to convince yourself more than anyone.

Can you please tell us why he'll never find parts for his flathead or running gear?

I do believe you were right about this a long time ago. But with the invention of cell phones and the Internet I think things have changed.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Yes. I also know that a breather on the pan is a good chassis rust preventative.

 

There are a bunch of pics of an 8BA in a 32 frame, posted here:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Nea...&page=1&_suid=1414704482593045225591859884695

The stock 32 motor mounts interfere with the road draft tube on an 8BA, so I made bolt in mounts that pick up the front shock bolts. I also made a bolt in master cylinder bracket and battery box.

Hope that helps.

Neal

 

Go look at Neal's recent rebuild articles on a '32 Fordor. Informative and inspirational!

 

Thanks B&S. Still mulling over whether or not to get of the LZ's. I'll let you know.

 

About brakes: The simplest would be pure Henderson, stock `32 Ford mechanicals, if you have the nerve. But I'll assume you'll be using early Ford hydraulics. I have recently gone through this on my late 40's style build `32 chassis. I wanted to retain as much of the stock `32 parts as possible (practical) Using the stock pedals on the "K" member, pushing a push rod to a master cylinder mounted behind the "K" member. you'll have to move the battery over to the right side, or into the trunk (for better exhaust pipe clearance). I allowed my street rodder buddy to convince me to use a modern dual reservoir master cylinder for "saftey". He threatend to not allow me to follow him in traffic if I didn't!
That was a mistake. It looks like ass and certainly isn't period correct. Next time I will use a stock `39-`48 Ford style single reservoir master cylinder and be able to run 1/4" lines from the master to all 4 wheel cylinders without any residual pressure valves either ( Ford didn't use them). The modern dual res. masters have 3/16" line ports. With the modern dual res. master and reduced down to 3/16" lines I was never able to achieve the high firm pedal like I would expect. Even after numerous attempts at bleeding and adjusting the brakes, I just had to settle for an adequate pedal. The other issue is the stock `32 brake pedal was running into the back of the 59a ( `46-`48) block before it was half way down to the floor board. Rather than hack up a good stock original `32 pedal I would suggest using `33-`34 pedals they are about 1" shorter, will clear the engine, and are a lot ea$ier to come by, or have one laser or plasma cut with the master push arm built onto it. You would have to heat and reshape the `33-`34 pedals to clear the steering column.

 

I used a 69 Mustang dual master cylinder and I got a some nuts that would allow the 1/4 lines to fit directly into the master. But, 1/4 or 3/16, the diameter doesn't make a difference on the feel of the brakes. Simple hydraulics.

Also, simple hydraulics, is that residual pressure valves may be needed even if Henry didn't use them. If your master is lower than your wheel cylinders, they may drain back and give you problems.

That 1969 master and the new residual valves are the only things newer than 1950 on the car. But that's OK with me.

 

Same story on my 32 Fordor build. I got the M/C to 1/4" adapters from Speedway. They also had the inverted flare to 1/8" pipe adapters needed for the residual valves. I hit a deadend on these from my local parts store, so had to rely on Speey Bill's emporium.

Neal

 

The '39-48 cylinder has a simple residual pressure check built in.

 

I didn't use adapters, I bought the correct nuts from Inline Tube. They look like factory. I think a well-stocked NAPA may have odd size tubing nuts as well.

 

I had to go back and look. The reason I used the adapters was to get to 1/8" NPT right out of the M/C, then I could go direct to the RV's.



Tough when you get old, can't remember what I did a few months ago...

 

The Klaz brake conversion is interesting...very neat, based entirely on old Ford parts, and gets the MC up and off the pavement:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...chassis-what-did-you-use.251108/#post-2666579

 

When you add a master like Nealin pictured, which is how I did mine, the bottom of the master's bracket is still higher than the bottom of the K member. The exhaust under the K is usually lower than the brake components.

 

Hey Neil: I like that battery mount and narrow battery - what brand and part number is the battery - could be a good setup for a lot of tight places. 6V or 12V? I'll be 12V.

 

It's a 12V Dyna-Batt, more info here...

http://performancedistributors.com/product/dyna-batt/

And here is another pic of the battery mount...



Neal

 

Neil:

Did you make that battery holder out of aluminum plate? Looks awesome!

 

No, it's mild steel. That pic was when it had just been blasted.

 

Nice work my friend!

 

Man lots of good advice. Trying to keep track of everything is a chore in itself. I'll be posting some updates soon. Anybody have a recommendation on a good place for top irons? I'm having a hard time finding originals

 

Hang out with streetrodders. Most of them would MUCH rather buy something from vintique than clean up a nasty old thing. This often applies to every bit of the car! The ideal seems to be to own an old car with nothing old or even anything that left detroit on a car in it...
Also, keep your eyes on the HAMB classifieds. More old Ford stuff in there than in most other venues.

 

Well i'm kind tore on what motor to build. I found a stock rebuilt 1940 engine for a right price or build my 53 Mercury. I'm not sure i'f I can handle a stock motor lol

 

Ok picked up a nice used 25 louver hood today. Who out there makes the correct hood latches, hood stops, and hood supports. I really don't want polished stainless pieces. I want what they originally used

 

nice project

 

I've got a few sets of already notched (for the fan belt) original 32 V8 motor mounts, so keep this in mind before you think about notching yours and losing the value.