Technical The 283 that wouldn't run right

cool beans...thanks

 

In my experience, too much taper in the bores equals burning oil, often enough to smoke, the rings "squishing" in and out act like a pump or some similar event takes place......when I worked in a machine shop we never used torqu plates but that was 38 years ago .....


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Torque plates do help in getting the bore round, (in service) but the difference between use and non-use are so small that for inspection purposes it is really unimportant. If you are distorting the bore enough to be measurable, that engine block design is a piece of crap and you should find a stronger version or switch to a make that doesn't distort.

 

I was told to drag a penny and look for copper residue left in grooves or scratches. Probably ought to use a "real" penny, solid copper.
The crank sprocket and cam sprocket look fine and are genuine GM parts. Can I just replace the chain? Cams, cams, cams. How much lift can a stock flat hydraulic valve train take?
I'm going to replace the oil pump. High pressure, high volume, or just get a stock one?

 

You've seen engines with ridges and good compression, but finish honing can't be good enough without a torque plate?

I'm confused.



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Re: timing chain etc. usually best to do as a set because of wear on the sprockets. Sometimes you can get timing chain and gears/Cam/ lifters as a set, that can save you a little. Cam will depend on car weight, gearing, intended use, lunar phase, and a few other things. There are lots of options there and lots of guys on here that have run them so you'll get some good info. Just be sure you clean,clean, clean. I helped my Dad do A rebuild on a 352 Ford ('67 f250) in a barn the winter I was 12, it's a wonder I ended up liking mechaniking at all, lol

 

Yes I'd say so too.
Probably because you've mixed an matched the comment and the context of my posts.

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. Stick with that old machine shop. The 283 isn't going to be a preformed at low RPM's. Call the cam builder and buy what they tell you. Their advice is free and they know. I think a stock oil pump would be fine. Ask the machine shop about the oil pump.

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If you don't grind the crank I suggest the high volume pump in case the clearances are a little high. How was your oil pressure?

 

Do a HAMB search regarding the 283. There's lots more info available, especially on camshaft choices. The very popular .420/.443 lift, 204/214 duration @.050 perks up the 283 just nicely on a mild street motor.
Torque plates were developed for those racers who were looking for those few extra HPs at high RPM. Millions of every-day street engines have been bored and honed without them, and run just fine at street and highway speeds.
FWIW, did a re-ring on a '63 Dodge 318 with cylinder taper varying between .010" to .013" among the 8 cylinders! Did a ridge removal (important) and a deglaze, a set of jobber cast rings and gasket set, exhaust guides, valve grind and timing chain set - a real budget overhaul. Ran like a trooper for 3 more years and running well when I sold it.
BTW, a de-glazer (ball or tri-stone) is not a hone.

 

With a ring gap of .012 in the middle of the stroke, a .028 ridge in the cylinder, the gap would be .040, or 4 times the spec at top dead center. Just like it had with the old rings. The taper causes most of the compression loss, not the rings.

What it will amount to is a used engine with new rings and bearings that runs like a worn out engine, that isn't worn out as badly as it was before spending hours to, "freshen it up."

But that didn't stop me from doing it a few times when it was my only option. Just know what you'll end up with and be realistic about it.



In hindsight I'd probably have just done the cam and saved the money for a proper rebuild down the road.


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