Econoline straight axle disc brake conversion?

If anyone is interested, we recently replaced the early Mustang disc brake set up on the front of our 56 Chevy gasser with something newer & lighter from Wilwood. Our 56's straight axle has 60-66 Econoline spindles. If anyone wants to purchase, the setup we removed, just send a PM.

 

Been looking at the D&D disc brake conversion kit. It uses '82-'99 s10 4x4 calipers. I assume these are quick take up style, so does this mean I need to use a stepped bore modern ugly master cylinder? My Willys has an econoline axle, but I don't want to use the type of master the D&D guys offer. I want to use a little iron 7/8 bore auto parts store cylinder, such as the Monza or Granada. Those are not Quick take up. Any experiences out there?

 

I put an Econoline axle and disc brake swap into my buddy's '69 Nova. Used GM metric calipers, which are pretty much the same as the S10. We used the stock disc/drum master for the Nova, and it stops fantastic.

 

Im also thinking of doing the D&D kit. But I've read & reread this thread & kind off have a parts list together.
Speedway: Weld-on 78'-88' GM caliper bracket #91641009 - $9.99 EA

GM Loaded calipers 78'-88'

90'-97' AWD Ford Aerostar Rotors
Autozone #5491
OR
90'-2000' Jeep Rotors O'rielly

 

#780444RGS
2 brake hoses O'rielly #BH38107
2 banjo bolts O'rielly #13940
10 Dorman wheel studs #610-169
Also the Jeep rotor is a tad wider so I think there would be less grinding to do on speedway bracket. Also what was the width of spacer that 1971BB427 made? Or just bolt loaded caliper & speedway bracket together & test fit till you can safely bolt the bracket on... Then use some air & push out brake pads & center it on rotor then measure distance for spacer? Seems you can save a lot of money (haven't checked Rockautos prices) DIY, or just buy D&D kit & be done. Jimbo

 

Do you know the bore size of that '69 Nova master cylinder? Seems THAT would be much more common in years to come than one for a Monza.

 

The stock '69 Nova brake master has a 1" bore. The spacers I made for the E100 axle with Speedway brackets were about 1/2" or slightly thicker. Once I test fitted, and bolted the calipers and brackets up, I tack welded the spacers to the bracket for extra strength. Then removed the brackets and finish welded the spacers. The thickness of the spacers is easy to determine, as you don't need to extend the piston on the calipers. Just install the brake shoes and pull it over against the fixed side to measure.

 

Thanks for the spacer info 1971BB427!!! At moment 55' has disk/drum. My brother Scott used a 1984 Ford Ranger master cylinder, with 15/16 bore size. With a wilwood porportioning valve. He somehow got 73 Merc Cougar brakes to work on the front. But when I looked at pics 1971BB427 posted I said that looks so much simpler, better & safer!

 

Surprisingly, we tried the Nova without a prop valve to see what it might need. It has an 8.8" Ford in the rear, with Explorer disc brake setup. In testing the stops at everything from easy stopping, to panic stops, it stopped great, and no issues of locking one axle up before the other. So we're running it without a prop valve, and just the stock Nova master and a power booster.

 

When I went to convert my drum brakes on my 34 roadster with a dropped tube axel to discs, I discovered that Econoline spindles were used on this set up. Apparently ,this was a common option on some straight axel kits in the '80's.
We used the D&D conversion after finding out what spindles I had here on the HAMB and being pointed to D&D.
I had to use a Ford Ranger dual master to get any brake pedal at all. (Power brakes).
This system works great,but it was way more expensive than if I had just bought a Speedway set up including old style Ford spindles. Although as I remeber it,the kingpins were a different diameter anyway.

 

The D&D kit is very good, and makes it easy to do the swap too, if you don't like to fabricate things. As you mentioned, the drawback is paying someone to make the brackets, and assemble the pieces will increase the cost substantially over doing it yourself.

 

1971BB427, I've done the same swap but a tad different with Explorer rear disk brake parts... The last thing my brother did was buy a 9" Moser rear housing & axles for his 89' Stang. It has the new style big bearing ends. Which is sweet because the 95'-01' Explorer rear brakes is a simple bolt on. I had to get the Currie spacer rings, which go between axle bearing & wheel flange. I'm not sure if this is a well known swap? I had to get a new master cylinder for Stang, 15/16 bore & have a portioning valve on firewall. Stops real nice! Also 1971BB427 did you use the Explorer housing for the Nova 8.8 swap? I'm surprised more people don't check those Explorer 8.8's out for rear end swaps! Man when you look at them their really heavy duty, narrow & have disk brakes! Plus you can find them relatively cheap. Almost bought one last week for a $100...

 

Ok, I was in on this thread early on and read to about post 50 so if this got covered forgive me. It is the FRONT rotors from an AWD Aerostar, any year All wheel drive afaik but they do list a left and a right for some reason, maybe directional cooling vanes?? Those vans did not have rear discs. Also I was unaware there were different Econoline drums, I must have got lucky to have the 2 piece hub. I used a heavy socket just big enough to clear the head and a massive brass hammer, they knocked out pretty easy.

 

From info I've found both Carquest & Autozone list same part numbers #5490 & #5491, right & left... 1990-1997 Aerostar AWD ... I believe Autozone names it (4WD) in there promps & Carquest names it (AWD) in there's... I did a Google search & post came up that the vanes are directional between the right & left rotors... It said make sure that the rotor vane or vent is pointed to the rear if your looking down from top of rotor... It sucks air from center out to help cool it...

 

Yes, if using Aerostar rotors, it's the front. And the drums seem to come both ways, although I've had Ford aficionados who told me that all front drums were pressed on the hub. I know my '63 has slip on drums, but the axle we put in the Nova did not, and we had to carefully cut the old drums off, so we could get them free of the hub.

 

Yes, I used the Explorer complete axle for the Nova, and also for my '63 Falcon. I think since the 8.8" is virtually a copy of a 12 bolt GM rear, except with larger 31 spline axles, they're extremely strong. Then there's the larger 3.25" tubes also, which add to the strength. I get them at the local U pull it for $208, but on half price holidays I always go pull one and get them for $104. I went there over Labor Day and got a half price 8.8", and also grabbed a short side axle for $20. I have a local guy who shortens the tube for $50, so I can make this a 56.5" OA for under $175.

 

1971BB427, One more question. In the Pics is that a "Ford Tie-Rod steering arm" from SPEEDWAY??? I'd need that piece too, plus looks like a couple heavy duty spacers were needed too!!!
Yeah another plus too with Explorer 8.8 is you can find them with 3.73 gears & I believe 4.10's too... I think you can safely say it was an over engineered piece!

 

Most of the 8.8" Fords in our wrecking yards seem to be the 3.73 posi. I wanted a 4.10 gear axle, but last time I went I couldn't find that ratio at all, and didn't want to drive to the other two yards to walk them.
The bracket on the Nova is a Speedway, but not sure what it was made to fit? Speedway doesn't sell one that fits a Econoline spindle spacing, so I always have to cut one tab off, bolt it to the spindle, and tack the tab back on. Then remove it, and finish welding the tab. Another Speedway gripe of mine is they don't sell these as singles! I talked to them, and asked why they didn't sell them as singles for use in attaching a drag link separately, and nobody knew why. But they still refuse to sell individual flat bar arms.

 

Yeah I seen Speedway sells them in pairs! I thought that Spindle bolt widths were different. Speedway only listed arms for 37-48 spindles, I'll have to look at 55, speedway listed a 11" & 9" length on arms... I'll have to check the pics again, man I couldn't see where it was welded! Good job! That's what threw me it looked like a factory Speedway piece but in back of my mind I thought the econline had a different spindle bolt pattern!

 

Yes, I weld the tab on it that's towards the hole where the drag link attaches; as the end you can see in the picture is not welded. The tab at the end of the arm can't move easily, being at the end of the arm. I cut the tab off, and bevel the joint, so it gets full penetration. They work great, and haven't had any issues. My Miller 140 is too light, so I take tack with it, and take them to a friend's house and use his Miller 200 to burn them in.
I also watch all the swap meets for anyone selling these flat bracket arms too! I've found a couple for $5-$10, and grab them every time. Since they need modifying anyway, I don't care about spacing.

 

Anyone got another alternative to this brake hose (BH38107) for S10 calipers? I just looked at them at O'reilly, and they have this huge goofy fitting on the chassis end, plus they are awful short.

 

I buy mine locally from Oil Filter Services. They are braided stainless, with a plastic sheath to keep them looking new. They come in various lengths, and have a 3-an female end, so I can put whatever ends on them to fit any application. They're cheaper than most rubber hoses also. Keyser sells the same thing through Summit, Jegs, or better parts stores. Might take a look at one of those places. They're less than $12 at Summit for 18" line. The fittings add 1.5"-2" to total length.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...eyser Manufacturing Braided Steel Brake Lines

 

Thanks, 1971BB427. you are one resourceful dude. The Falcon looks killer. I just put a rack and pinion on my Willys' Econoline axle, and it made a huge improvement in driveability/steering control. Gathering parts for the disc swap now.

 

Thanks mohr hp! Gotta come up with solutions when we're making parts from various car makers all fit into our idea of a hotrod! Bet the R&P does make a nice turning axle setup. If my car was lower, where it wasn't so visable, I'd do a R&P.

 

I just got the whole kit from Speedway.

 

Speedway doesn't carry an Econoline disc brake conversion. So what kit did you get from Speedway?

 

Where did you get the banjo fittings for the S10 calipers that fits the universal lines?

 

I got mine from Oil Filter Services, but Russell also makes them, and they can be found at Summit, Jegs, or many other parts stores.

 

I went to press in those dorman 610-169 studs, and they fall into the holes! Not an interference fit. My old studs are about .639". these are about .625". Have my hubs been oversized or am I missing something?

 

Sounds like you've answered your own question? If the old were .639" I'd guess that's why a .625" drops in and isn't tight. I can never seem to get the right sized studs by ordering by the car's model and year. I simply took one old stud and my hub to the local parts house, and they gave me 10 studs in the length and diameter to fit well.