Hey thanks for that! That's definitely an option! Got my very simple trans crossmember made up and tacked in. I also made legs that tie into the frame that I have yet to weld in. Chassis is almost done, so I guess I'll be starting on the body soon! Let me know what you guys think!
Love all the advice you're getting, and the work you have gotten into so far. Great place to be....this place....you're a smart kid to play thru the course....with them caddying. Won't go wrong at all..... Awesome truck you have. Dig your dad's car, and his drive up ramp too. Have fun sir. I am looking forward to more of your stuff......so get it get it !
Thanks man I really appreciate that, and all the guidance people have given me so far! I'll definitely have more progress soon!
Hell yeah man! Honestly you have the coolest A pickup on the HAMB! It's actually the reason I decided not to channel mine.
Very cool truck! I really like the stance and tire choice for a fender less pick up! Going to be awesome! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I don't know about all that but Thanks! You'll be much happier with a truck not channeled. I'm 5.7" and it's feat to get in and out and thats with a 15" steering wheel. I finally somewhat finished the inside this summer. just a few more things to do.
That looks great man! How tall is your seat riser? And how much chop is it? Looks like 5 or so. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I took the seat riser and chopped it all the way to the pan in the rear and equal distance in the front to keep the same angle of the seat. First year I drove it with the factory riser I had to hunch to look out the window. It's a 6" chop. Bed is shortened 9"
Ok cool man thanks thats some good info! Got a lot of stuff welded in completely tonight. I'll have to post some pictures tonight.
Got a lot of my frame welded up the past couple of days. Just gotta yank the engine and trans to fully weld it up! What do you guys suggest for a pedal setup? I think I wanna use frame mount pedals but I'm not exactly sure which I could make work.
Looking great man! Just found out my uncle and cousin have a fairly cherry Model A pickup sitting in storage they haven't touched in years. Unfortunately it was given to my uncle from his dad on the other side of the family. Don't think he'll ever give it up! I'm trying to convince my cousin to get it out and at least get it running. He wants to restore to factory and put it in parades. I told him to simply get the banger running, put on a lakes header, pull the fenders, big n littles and call it a day! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's mine, un-channeled and a 4" chop. I'm 5' 10" and it's tight with a stock seat riser and 3" thick seat base. I have about 6" from the top of my head to the roof.
Couldn't you build a box (32 style) off the trans crossmember to mount Model A pedals and a master cylinder?
That would be pretty rad man! Hopefully you can convince him! Thanks! very much appreciated. Man I love seeing your truck haha I suppose I could do that too. I was thinking about buying a prefabbed one, but I can't really find anything that would suit my needs.
Mike, take a look at the So Cal web site catalog. On my 30 pickup I used their frame K-member part # SOC62096. . It works really slick & looks similar to the transmission cross member that you have in your pickup. It looks just like their K-member # 001-62089 which is for a 32 frame, but is for a model frame, or they did offer it when I got mine. The visual diffrence on my model a one is that the tube for the brake & clutch pedal mount is all to the inside of the the k-member tube. My scanner is not wanting to work or I would have included a picture from the past catalog that is out of print. If you have catalog # 7 it is on page #8. When I ordered mine the So Cal speed shop tech gave me the dimentions to position it as: Distance from center of radiator mount to center of transmission crossmember tube = 59 3/4". Distance down from top of frame to top of trans crossmember tube = 1 3/4". For the K-member legs the distance is: Distance from center of left radiator mount hole to the brake pedal tube = 40" approx. From center of both radiator mount holes to the front of the forward tubes of the K-members at where they intersect the frame =40" approx. I belive that these measurements are for a unboxed frame. My frame is step boxed & the measurements on the K-member legs came out to 36" from center of the radiator mount hole to where the front of the K-member tube intersects the frame, & 40" from the radiator mount hole to center of the pedal mount tube. If nothing else you might be able to use these measurements to reposition your left K-member tube or make a new longer one & set a mount for your brake & clutch pedal. I hope this helps you. Bill
Yes channled trucks are best left to contortionists or vertically challenged persons like myself. I like the one a few posts up on the deuce rails.
Nice truck hotrodder! I think I found the pedals I'm going to use. Should work better than under the dash like I had planned. Started sanding my frame down because I didn't really have much else to do haha
Ok guys I need some help. I started working on my pedals and I ran into a problem. I have a t5 and Im using a hydraulic throwout bearing, so I need a master cylinder for that. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can make that work with my setup? Ill get better pictures when I go outside again today. The pedals are from deuce frame company.
Here is the room Im working with. Could I use a small master cylinder between the frame and brake master cylinder with a remote reservoir?
The truck is looking great! For the clutch cylinder, you could mount a plate off of the trans crossmember and use a long pushrod.
Yep, if the rod is sturdy and the connections are snug. You definitely want a strong mounting for the M/C so there is no deflection. "I need my mirror boy"
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