Picked up this four door from a cool dude in Lubbock. Traded an XS650 chop project for it. Got it home put a battery in it and some fuel and the little 216 came to life. Drove it around a little too. Plans are to un-f$&k the rear lowering job. Done by the PO before this PO. 3 inch block out back and 3 inch springs up front. Got a new wiring harness with so I'll rewire it, get everything working right, patch panels, sand primer and block it and shoot some hot rod flats blue with a white top. Gonna chunk the radial whites and chrome Steelies for some cream Steelies and 6.50/15 bias plys. Stock interior, new side glass and drive the snot out of it. Damn, just damn. Dont do this kids. I'm amazed the damn rear end is still in there. And the u bolt nuts are below the scrub line by A LOT. Thanks for lookin' Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Wow. A runner. I like that! The base motor for 1953 passenger cars was a spray-oiled 235. The 216 had a taller side cover than your motor. There is a focus group for these motors linked in my signature.
Yes. The 216 pushrod cover goes all the way up to the valve cover. Be aware that the early 235's ('53 and earlier) were a different motor than later 235's ('54-up, and '53 Powerglide), so it is important to know which motor you have. To be sure of your motor, you can check your engine serial number at this link: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm A quick look at the driver's side of the block will tell you if it is the later motor. The triangular three bolt plate seen below the exhaust outlet is the oil distributor cover, seen only on spray-oiled (early) motors. It is not present on the pressurized (later) motors. These cars were pretty sluggish performers by any standards, but respond nicely to a few tweaks. If it has a stock muffler (very restrictive), you can start there. If the motor is in good mechanical shape, a second carb, dual pipes, and HEI converter in the stock distributor should make it much more fun to drive. Dyno tests in the early '50's showed a 10-12 HP increase on a stock engine with 2 carb set-up alone. (That's 10%!) If you do plan to hop it up, there are a few minor compatibility issues with most aftermarket intakes and the early motors, so check first with the 216 board for a heads-up of what to look for.
Great info. Thanks Mo. I'll get the numbers off if it after lunch and figure out what it is for sure. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You were right mo. Early 235. Looks to be original. I'm trying to decipher the car numbers and serial number. Not sure how to tell if it's OG or not. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Pretty safe bet it's original. Replacement motors were almost always upgraded to the pressurized motors, even when near new. Lot's of guys will tell you to swap it out now, but not to worry. (The fact that it's still running should tell you otherwise!). There must be a million of them still on the road. Just keep the revs down, and keep on cruising. Today's highway speeds are at the upper limit of sustained durability. Most blame the oiling system, but the stress loads imposed by heavy cast iron pistons are a real factor. Later motors were equipped with aluminum pistons, which are inexpensive and interchangeable, if you ever rebuild. BTW, your 1953 rear gear ratio is 3:70 to 1. This is a lot more highway friendly than the 4:11 gears used in 1952 and older stick shift cars. So, drive and enjoy!
It fires up at first hit and purrs like a kitten. No knocks or smoke at all. I can't wait to get it on the road. Thanks for all the info Mo. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Awesome info man. Thanks a ton. So, this motor has been sitting for a couple years. I'm going to change the oil and coolant, run the valves and check the plugs. Any other preventative maintenance measures I should take. Maybe oil down the rockers as it's running? What kind of oil will this motor want? IE, synthetic, full synthetic or no synthetic. Or maybe Lucas oil would be good for it? Thanks again Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You are the man curb feeler. Thank you so much for the info. I plan for this motor to run for many years to come. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Got the car in the shop and figured out the gas tank has a hole in it. Dropped it off at the local radiator shop for a vat bath and patch. Cut 1-1/2 coils off the front. The rear is 4"s lowered so we'll see how the front looks and decide to go 3 or 4" block to get the stance right. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Bolted up the front clip today and started on the brakes. Gonna need wheel cylinders all around. Gas tank is cleaned and fixed.
Thanks for your input Curb. I knew it would be easier but I don't have dedicated shop space to work with right now so it will be getting moved in and out and I didn't want the motor exposed. What do you guys think of this. The seat are in great shape. They are dark blue. I will match the original interior pieces to them. So my thoughts are to D-A the body smooth and shoot either dark or light blue hot rod flats with a white top. The original color was regal blue. I think either, with cream Steelies and 6.70/15 www bias plys will look awesome. The hot rod flats will be temporary as I plan to shave all the emblems and weld the hood halves together and make a peak down the middle. I can re-paint as I work on it/drive it. Thoughts? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I hear you. I do not want a rodent rod. The paint that's on it is a re spray from years ago I think. There's a lighter blue under it. The outer layer is a little purple-y and pealing in spots, but there are only a couple of layers paint. So what's your feeling as to the paint. Sealer? As in prime, body work, seal, drive, repeat until all the panels are ready for paint? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Nice thread Hot Rod, just noticed it from mention over in the 216 group. Btw if you haaven't already bought new chinese wheel cylinders you can have your og's sent out for ss sleeves and they'll last an absolute lifetime. Standard kits to rebuild from there on for decades and you get to keep your USA goodies. The cost is whatever new chinas cost plus ship to get the work done They come back ready for install. They do master cylinders ss sleeves too. Everything is posted up on my build log in 'Moe's 216 group I forget the folks company name at the moment Be cool, freezerburn
The doors are original body color. The top looks to be rattle can silver. You can see through it in spots. I see what you mean, with no trim there's no separation for paint colors. Original color is regal blue. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
How she's lookin' today. 3 inch block coils cut in front. Bump stops shaved and new brakes all around. Next it to rewire it get the lights and stuff working and start driving. Then on to paint and interior. I'm almost thinking seafoam green with white interior.
The stance is real nice, the front settled down just right. You know, you really can't go wrong with a two tone on any of the old stuff around here But hey +1 here for green and cream.
I hadn't even noticed that, lol. Maybe another transitional color where they meet? It would not need to be much just a break. Whatever happens I'll be there to gawk at it