Guess I deserve that for leaving the door open for that comment!! Haha Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My apologies. FWIW I've been watching this to see if anyone's used the speedway stuff. I guess the consensus while there's a couple different bases (nickel, copper) it's all pretty much the same no matter the brand? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Since the Problend 1720 is a Joe Mondello signature item I'm guessing it's first rate, although I haven't used it.
In my experience, anti-seize tends to separate in the tube like peanut butter. Then you need to mix it again or you just get the thin oil off the top, and the lead stays in the tube. Are you sure Speedway is liquid? Or has it just separated from sitting on the shelf?
I'm wondering: If I see Keith Richards, in a styrofoam box, covered in anti-sieze, eating a Twinkie while dodging cockroaches; has the world ended??
It's in a fairly transparent plastic bottle. It's a squeeze top dispenser, like a ketchup bottle. I can't see that anythings settled out. It is liquid. Fairly thick, very gooey and strong adhesion properties.
I did a search for the product. It's interesting that the only place you can purchase Pro-Blend 1720 is at Speedway and Boteler Racing Products.
I've never used the Speedway product but our hydraulic ratchet recommends molybdenum disulfide which comes in a spray can. They have to provide the new version of the material safety data sheet which includes all ingredients. I had a salesman come in with an anti-seize product and his sales pitch was that it was easy to wipe off the excess. I pointed out to him that if it wipes off easy it would get wiped off the threads when the bolt is screwed in.
http://www.henkelna.com/product-sea...15457&msdsLanguage=EN_US&selectedTab=document Here is a good all around non-metallic Loctite product.
Here is the TDS for the above mentioned product. Take a look pretty good all around performance. https://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNA...5490B5A0852577450068FB29/$File/MARGASL-EN.pdf
I buy the Permatex in the smaller tubes, so far I haven't had one separate over the years. The big bottle, those separated and I'd wind up with all sorts of crap mixed in with it eventually.
You're mistaken. There are a number of different vendors listed on search engines, and most race car shops sell their products, especially the "Hot Lap." I'm not sure what your concern is at this point . Why don't you just try it and see if you like it?
You can buy the high quality stuff in a tube at any Honda shop. I use it to lube the drive splines on my bike. the Honda stuff has like 10x the moly in it as the cheapo stuff you can buy anywhere. It costs 10x as much too. But it's more a lube than an anti-seize, though most cheap anti-seize contains grease of some kind, so where do you draw the line?
All i know about anit-seize is these two things: 1.You can paint your entire house with a cap full of the shit 2. I accidently put anti seize and loc-tite on the same bolt and inadvertently created a new explosive. -rick
for use in critical applications (rod bolts, cylinder heads, etc) ARP Ultra-Torque seems to be the best. Going through the typical three "loose to torque" cycles the fastener angle changes very little.
Agreed you are speaking of thread lubricant which is different then anti-seize. Indeed those are all critical applications and the use of thread lubricant reduces the coefficient of friction. Consideration needs to be made when torqueing.
FAA uses the term anti-sieze and thread lubricant almost synonymously for applications in aviation. Both reduce friction and all manufactured lubricants that I'm aware of contain galvanic action insulating compounds. A significant (NJTSRN) component of the ARP is a common food-grade anti-sieze.
I bought the Speedway stuff too, I was wondering the same question. I used it. I guess I'll find out if it worked!
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