I'm pretty new to this. Picked up a 60s 283 sbc. Doing my best to keep it "traditional". My question is, is a gear drive considered traditional??? And it's missing heads,what heads will be acceptable? Thanks guys
Use "power pack" heads as denoted by the small triangle or 1.94 fuelies - no, a gear drive is more of a 70s thing and not somthing you want
Motor came with power pack heads but original owner kept them. Will do my best to find some. I have always liked the gear drive thing. But I suppose I can go without on this build ha. Thanks!
If you can find early fuelie heads go for it. Also try for a early intake with the oil filler tube drilled in the front of it. If you cant find fuelie heads I have seen the accessory holes filled and ground down to look like earlier heads. Most people will not know the difference at a glance.
It might be cheaper to find a set that was freshened up by a machinist. I picked mine up for $100 then I had to pay a machinist to fix them. I could have got a set already freshened up for $450 and been ahead of the game.
This may help you identify heads. Study up on it there are lots of variables. Probably the Power Pack heads would be most common for an early build. http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html
If you are not in a rush, stay patient for a set of heads that have already been R&R'ed (machining, unleaded fuel friendly valve guides, etc). Since GM & aftermarket aluminum heads have become popular with guys with deeper pockets or higher horsepower needs, you can probably score a a good set of already freshened early heads that are take-offs for a fair or bargain price... if you aren't in a hurry. Gotta56forme/Scott
fuelie heads originally came on fuel injected vettes - then they came on all 327s 300hp and up - the lower hp motors had 1.94 valves - many were converted to 2.02s over the years....they are identified by two bumps "camel humps" on the end with no accessory holes....also, if you want a traditional 283 use an "097" solid lifter cam, rams horn manifolds and early cast aluminum vette or cal custom covers with no holes - "early" intakes (factory and aftermarket) had a provision for an oil fill in front - you will need that (i would search out an early aftermarket 2x4 with afb's or adapt afb's to a factory 2x4 intake as the factory wcfb's are pricey) - nothing screams late model (read: untraditional) small block chevy like acessory holes in the heads and breathers/pcv in the valve covers
Please don't waste your money on a gear drive for the cam. The noise will drive you crazy. 305 HO heads are a good choice and remember that heads meant for a 4.00" bore will shroud the valves on a 283 causing breathing problems. 283s like to rev and they like compression but anything over 10:1 and you have problems with today's gas.
Wow tons of good info. Thanks guys. I guess I will pass on my childish wish of a noisy gear drive in order to maintain my dignity. So I've found an adapter for 2-2 barrels to go on a 4 barrel intake. What's the traditional verdict on this? Considering I can find a period correct 4 barrel intake
I THINK that the 1.94 heads have more cc's than the stock 283 heads and you will be lowering the comp which will take away a lot of power. Might check !
Sorry to say , I never saw a 2x2 ever used on any mouse ; back in the day. Single 4 ,2x4, 3x2, Hilborn, 4-71,6-71,4x2 ,or 6x2.
ya -I wouldn't use one of those adapters on a small block either - an older (non polished) afb (a pair is even better) or 3x2s would be cool - and while 305 heads will work great and make power on a 283 they are not traditional (have accessory holes)
While not really traditional on the 283, here is another vote for the HO 305 heads. I have them on my 283 that is bored .60, along with an old L79 Corvette 327 cam. 2 1/2" Ram Horns with full 2" exhaust, as well as a few other things, and it is a very pleasant, snappy little engine to drive.. I love it...
I love my gear drive in my 350. My wife wanted it after hearing some at a car show. Please remember it's your car so build it the way you want. Mine is a brand new crate engine with a gear drive. You'll understand when you put a timing light on it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
There has been a lot of people making new heads look identical to camel humps with a little tig work and some fine grinding. Check out Gene Fulton's Willy's in the latest hot rod, he's got a pair of huge aluminum CFE heads disguised as 300 horse iron double hump heads on his 421 dart sbc. If you want this 283 to really fly this is the way to go. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
sodakmini, I want to build a period correct 283 or 327 for my 60 chevy. I read just about every post on the HAMB. I cut and pasted the good advice into a 23 page (and counting) word document. You should do the same. I picked up a pair of 462's... Camel Humps... fuelies for $100, but they are worn out, and will need new seats, machining will probably run about $600. I am pretty sure that was including screw in studs and a mild port. The machine shop I talked to had a few pair already -FYI. For a 283 you will want to make sure the heads are 1.94 size intakes and not the bigger 2.02, the small bore of the 283 will negate the bigger valves due to shrouding and they will run worse. A bunch of folks are probably going to point out a 350 is going to make more power for less money -they are probably right. If your plan is to stick this into a little 30's roadster or coupe -you gotta ask yourself "how much power are you really gonna need?" I would think 1.94 Camel Humps an old school Edlebrock intake and a 4-barrel would get you 200 to 225hp easy. I am quite sure you could roast the tires on a light car -Kelvin
Hell I'm sure a stock 283 would roll the tires on a light rod like that. I've had everyone tell me to not waste my time and do a 350. They all drive camaros n C10s. Going to buy a set of fuelies and start with a single 2 barrel Jury's still out on the gear drive. Forgot to mention it's been punched .040..... That going to cause any problems????? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If your concerned, have the cylinder walls sonic tested. Anything over .060 and you might see some cooling challenges.
No problem on .040/.060 esp early block's. If your going hardcore on the build, early heads it is. Otherwise those goofy 'tree fi'dy buoys will bob-&-lob for their choice of crate bait street-roddie way. Wrong site. I have a set of forged flat top +.030 Speed pro's new in the box.