Hello all, Just recently picked up my first project. It's a 1937 ford stake truck with the 85 hp flathead. Got it for 300$ with almost everything there. I just got it running last week after getting a new coil, rebuilt dist, water pumps, battery, etc etc. Now that the truck moves around on its own I need it to stop on its own. The mechanical brakes are missing lots of parts and I just don't think it's worth it to save them anymore. I have done some searching around about conversions. From what I've read it sounds like the front is easy. Was thinking 53-56 f100 drums for the front. Do I need to find these drums on the front axle of the f100 or are the rears the same? I know I will need the adapter bearings to fit my 37 spindle. And I believe I can run later f100 shoes and hardware to make them self energizing? What years would that be? As for the rear.... I want to keep the banjo axle but ditch the mechanical brakes. I have no need for a ford 9 inch behind my stock flathead. What brakes can I run on that axle? From what I've seen the only options are 40-48 juice brakes? Those are not self energizing right? Do I have any other options? Do you think that's a good brake combo? I would probably adapt a dual master cylinder and figure out what to do with proportioning valves and stuff. Thank you
First question, do you have the vehicle on the passenger car chassis or on the big truck chassis, big difference? My comments assume that you have the passenger car chassis. The best guy for early Ford hydraulic brake conversions is Richard Lacy at [email protected], (626) 338-2282. He makes an adapter that lets you use your stock pedal with hydraulics (I am not sure it will work with a dual master cylinder, ask). You can use the reproduction Lincoln brakes to get self-energizing brakes. I would be tempted to run '39-'48 backing plates all around with your existing drums. Charlie Stephens
Thanks for the reply. I believe it's on the original chassis. How would I know? Being that it was a stake truck does that mean it's a 1 ton or something? Or is it the same chassis as the pickup? At first I was told it was a pickup but I looked through some pictures the guy had the other day and found out it was a stake. I did see overload springs on the rear end too. I think I will go ahead an contact Richard as I've seen his name pop up on other threads. He sounds like the go to guy haha. Where can you purchase the Lincoln repros? I recently found an all ford junkyard quite close to me and the guy said he has tons of old stuff. I was hoping to get most of the set up off other trucks to keep the cost down. If the mechanicals were more salvageable I would try to just keep them but I don't see that happening.
If it came from the factory as a stake bed it is probably on the big chassis. Take some pictures showing the wheels close up and center section of the rear end. What size tires does it have? Can you measure the wheel base (front to rear)? Set the camera on the lowest resolution setting and they are easy to post here. The Lincoln repros are available from Richard Lacy. If you are trying to keep costs down you will probably end up using the 1939-48 Ford brakes. Charlie Stephens
The wheelbase measures at 112 inches. Has the transverse leaf spring pack as well as overload parallel springs on the outside of the banjo. Tire size is 6.50-16. It has the wide five pattern on the wheel and a v8 logo on the center cap. 8 there is anything else you need to know let me know. Dyllon
The wheelbase for the passenger car chassis is 112 so that part is good. The rear end center section looks passenger car but I am definitely not an expert on trucks. I would suggest posting on fordbarn.com and asking the question. Charlie Stephens
That is a standard 1/2 ton chassis. The Big truck frame is a strait rail frame without the arch over the rear axle. I would recomend against mixing F-100 with early Lincoln parts unless the reproducton uses the same wheel cyl's as the F-100 fronts. The old standard up grade was 39-48 on all 4 corners and a 40 style brake pedal unit. The Wizzard
Wizzard, Does that mean the chassis is the same as a passenger car and he can convert to hydraulic brakes the same as converting a passenger car to hydraulic brakes? That is to say, same rear end, same spindles? Charlie Stephens
Your truck sounds like a 1/2 ton stake body pickup. That's what mine is. Same chassis as the cars. You'll need a '39 pedal assembly, and I'd go with later 46-48 brakes as they are much easier to adjust than 39-40s.
Be sure to contact Richard Lacy at [email protected], (626) 338-2282 to check out the adapter he makes to use the original pedals when you convert to hydraulics. Charlie Stephens
Yes, It's the basic same frame as car's. 39 pedal units are way over priced in my book for used ones and generally worn out when you do find them. Lot's of ways to skin that Dog. Finding a complete factory flatbed 1/2 ton is rare and Kool. I'd like to have on of those myself. The Wizzard
Just a few thoughts on how I would approach the brakes. First remove all 4 drums and have them measured by a brake shop to see if they can be used. You are going to need a special puller for the rear hubs/drums. Borrow one or buy one but don’t resort to a bigger hammer to get the rear hubs/drums off. The front hubs and drums will come off like a modern car. The drums start at 12.000 and 12.060 is generally considered the maximum diameter. You may have to look around a little to find a shop that can turn the rear drums as it takes a special adapter for the brake lathe which many shops no longer have. Be sure the shops can also arc the shoes to fit the drums. If they don’t have the equipment they will probably tell you it is not necessary but in my book it is. If they tell you that they need to remove the drums from the hubs to turn them run, don’t walk, for the door. Now when you go to the junkyard you will know what you need. I agree with a previous post that stated the ’46-’48 backing plates were easier to adjust and they would be my first choice but the ’39-‘42 backing plates will work. In a pinch you could probably use one type on the front and the other type on the rear but I wouldn’t mix them on the same axle. I think I would use Richard’s adapter for the master cylinder or design one myself. If you design one be sure you have the same pedal ratio as was used on a ’39-‘48 Ford. I don’t think the ’39 pedal assemble is the quick and easy fix that some people think but must admit I don’t have personal experience. I think I would run the ’39-’48 master cylinder and copy the line routing, fittings and hoses from a ’39-’48 Ford. I would start by buying as many flared lines from an auto parts store as possible. When I need to cut and flare a line I would either buy a tool or have a brake shop do it. Try to find an American made master cylinder and wheel cylinders, pay more if necessary. One final thought. Don’t let anyone fast talk you out of those rims. The 5 on 10 ¼ bolt pattern is becoming popular again. Your rims are probably wider than the passenger cars rims and desirable to someone that wants to run larger tires. I would suggest running the safety clips that keep you wheel from coming off in case of an axle failure. Bendix style brakes are better but it depends on what you budget is and if you want to use the original rims (which I would would do). Charlie Stephens
'39. first year for hydraulic brakes, used the same drums as '37-'38 mechanical brakes. So, if your drums are not worn out, you can use them with up to '48 passenger/'47 pickup backing plates. Ford did build a 1/2 ton stake bed on the 112" passenger car chassis. Ford used the term "truck" for 3/4 ton and larger. The 1/2 tons 112" wheelbase were called "commercial cars" in the Ford catalog. The only real differences between the underpinnings of your truck and a '37 car is that the car frame has some body mounts riveted to the outside of the frame rails that are ommitted on the commercial car frames, the springs have a few more leaves, and a lower gear ratio in the rear end. You probably have a 4.11, while 85 HP cars generally had a 3.78 or 3.54.
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