So i have introduced myself and now its time to start collecting for my build. So far i have a bare 35-40 ford chassis, needs repairs in the rear drivers side kick up but apart its straight and ok. I know that im wanting to build it with a blown 401 nailhead and manual transmission behind it, but for the rest i need a bit of help and advice. i dont wish to go the root of mustang front so wish to build it with a dropped front axle, and for rear suspension i was adviced ( dont know if its correct ) to go with a triangulated ladder bar set up on coil overs which i really like the look. After i build this chassis i would be looking for a 37 pickup cab to get me started. so im looking for as much advice as I can possible get and opinions. Also recommendations for a rear axle please. Thanks
I was thinking of a 9 inch with the ladder bar setup but was just waiting to see if any other ideas were put my way.
The choices are numerous but I always use parallel leafs on the rear with a 9 inch Ford rear end. I have several 57-59 Ford rear axles in inventory and they are the perfect width for the 35-40 Fords at 57 1/4". The set up provides an excellent ride and is an easy bolt on installation. I prefer the TCI set up, but the CE system works good also. I have used the P&J rear ladder bar set up with coil overs but found the ride difficult to adjust to suit my requirements.
The Pete & Jake's ladder bar suspension is very effective, particularly in high horsepower applications. It can be used with the stock buggy spring or coil overs. With coil overs a Panhard bar is required. A four bar rear end set up also works will with coil overs and works well with high horsepower. Speedway sells the set up http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1935-40-Ford-Four-Bar-Rear-Suspension-Kit,5870.html . In front, you want to use the 33/36 axle and 35/36 spring. The 33/36 axles accept a drop better than the 37 and up. They also give you more clearance between the tire and the wishbone. The 35/36 wishbone will work with the 37/40 frames. Your frame will require X-member modification to accept the manual transmission. In the process you will most likely loose the chassis mounted cup for the wishbone. You can solve this by "splitting the bones" and mounting them to tabs on the frame. Another solution is a four bar conversion such as this one sold by Speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1935-40-Ford-Four-Bar-Kit,3340.html . Chassis Engineering is another good source for 35/40 Ford suspension alternatives. Here is a link to their 35/40 parts specific catalog page http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/1935-1940-ford-car-pickup/ . Personally, I like the beam axle front end under hot rods that do not have fenders. At the same time, however, I do acknowledge their limitation. If I was building a full fender car I would use a Mustang II based IFS. They ride better and the car handles better. I have ridden in a half dozen or so 35/40 Ford coupes with a Mustang II type IFS and I would have to say it it is a mighty fine ride. A stock 401 Buick makes 400+ pounds of torque. No telling where that will go with a little huff. A Ford 9" rear end (or something equally strong) is almost mandatory. I would not use parallel springs in this application as the torque, under acceleration, will wind up the springs, mess with the pinion angle, and the tires will hop. Both the P&J ladder bar and the four bar are recommended. The one thing you do not want to do is mount ladder bars to the outside frame rails. That is OK for dedicated drag racing machines but on the street something will break. On street machines the front ladder bar mounts need to be as close to the transmission out put/ front universal as possible.
That is an amazing amount of info for me "Bib Overalls" and exactly what I wanted. I guess I will look in to a mustang front then, and defernetly stick with the ladder bar set up on the 9 inch rear.
Thank you also for the reply, I recognize this chassis, wasn't it under a sedan delivery or panel ? Either way a nice chassis. It's great to know the exact width now of the 9 inch rear that will be needed.
Yes, it was under my 40 sedan delivery. The car is with a new owner now. Here is a photo of a coil over set up I used with the P&J ladder bars on my 33, as I too, like the look. The system is more pleasing ascetically but was hard to adjust for a decent ride. Both can be made to work and is really a personal preference.
I knew I recognized the chassis. If it's more difficult to do it will be more rewarding when it's finished...so I think I now know how my chassis is going to be built. PJ ladder bar rear on a 9 inch with coil overs, Mustang ifs with 2" dropped spindles and a 401 Buick nailhead sitting up front with I hope a manual box.
Coil overs are NOT traditional period..........If you want to call it a traditional chassis then use traditional parts that will work and can handle as much power as the bias ply tires can handle .If you want a set up that will handle alot of power use a early Olds '57 is prefered because they are narrow or '57 Ford 9" is good option with ladder bars, if you were not making more than 300hp then a set of reinforced '36 wishbones mounted to 9" , Olds, or '55-'57 chevy rear end would be a great choice and was used often in the late '50's and early '60s.
As I said when I first started this, that I would take as much advice as possible, so making mistakes along the way is bound to happen, and if it means getting kicked back in to line then I'm up for it I read the rules of this forum when I joined and I'm going to stick at it... I'm doing as much research as I can on the HAMB search and also on the internet to find the perfect parts to use.
If I was building a full fender 35 to 48 Ford of any sort I'd do what you have in mind. Possibly Chevy/nascar truck arms & air bags but that's a different deal.
Thanks for the support, never been a fan of air bags myself...glad to know my chassis build appeals Now its just starting to collect all the parts I need, and I won't start until I have all the parts I need.
The Jalopy Journal
