Wax and grease remover always sounds like a great idea, but every time I use it, I get just what you see in your pics. I can't tell you that is what happened, I'm telling you that I have used that stuff exactly as directed and it did exactly what you see in your pics. I had to sand two coats of base off this car and shoot it again with no wax and grease remover. No issue the second time. Good luck, -Abone.
First coat of paint dried too long before second coat was applied and caused the first coat to craze. Always touch your finger to an area where you have it masked off to check for drying. When you touch it and it's still tacky but doesn't string as you pull your finger away it's ready for the second coat.
Yeah, know that from experience, unfortunately. The hardener is affected by the moisture in the air, helps it "kick"! Once you break the seal...! Had this happen way back in the 70's when I was painting when I first started to use catalyzed paint (Centari, Imron, etc) and just recently to. Was also told that by a few guys who ought to know, Jon Kosmoski for one when he talked at the school (NDSCS) I was going to at the time. All in all, even though I know that urethanes are more durable and such, one of the reasons that I would still rather use acrylic lacquers if I had the choice, at least for custom work!
using an hvlp turbine setup it appears to be not enough air for the amount of fluid, like it was "splattering" instead of spraying, ive used a turbine before many times, get a cardboard box with a big sheet of paper or back mask something to do a few spray patterns on, also 1.4 tip is pretty big and is better suited for primer type application....im not saying it cant used im just saying it will take a little more adjusting of the gun
Just because a can of hardener has been opened does not mean its not good. I have used harder many times that was several years old on award winning paint jobs. If the hardener is still in liquid form, its still is useful as intended. I've even seen guys heat up gooey hardener to get it back to liquid and use it successfully......jus sayin.....
Agreed. The comments above about expired hardener after 2 weeks are just plain wrong information. After mixing paint, You put the lid back on, and life goes on. I have experience with multiple major OEMs who may have a can of hardener used off and on over months with no problems, even with semi loose lids. If the material is crystallizing, then it is kicking over with moisture. But that is the only real issue and that is usually just around the seal and lid. I have multiple open cans of hardener I have used off and on over the last FIVE YEARS with no issues. I was a manager that help design a major million dollar spray booth for testing very high end OEM paints. We kept a 5 gal pail of hardener under the bench and used it off and on during major projects for months and months with zero issues. As far as hardener goes, the only real issues go back to basics. Use in proper temps. Use in proper ratios. Filter out any crumbs from crystallizing material found around the lid. Don't leave the lid open while you work. Clean the lid and can rim before reapplying lid to get a tight seal. Store in reasonable temps. Use again whenever you like. I am betting that anyone having problems beyond this is having problems with all the basics as well. The most important instruction on any of these cans says, "For professional use only". There is a reason for that. Professionals know how to handle this voodoo without getting burned, even when breaking many of the other "rules". To the original poster, For what it is worth, spray some test panels in the same temp conditions before you shoot a whole vehicle. Good luck and let us know how it goes! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
from what I see in the pics, I don't see a fast dry or heat issue I see a contamination issue,as a shop owner I shoot paint everyday and I too have had this problem with a cleaner before because of letting it dry before removing it. if you look at the pics it looks to me like the paint separated moreso than dry spray or really bad orange peel which would occur if it dried too fast and if it dried really really fast chances are there would be adhesion problems . had an employee clean a gun after use with a reducer other than laquer and the next job had a terrible case of separation/fisheyes. . and of course try a test panel before you shoot next time that way only a small amount of product is wasted
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