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Jag Jaguar IRS into a 46' International Harvester

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by IRON MAIDEN, Feb 2, 2011.

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  1. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    After much thought, I really don't want to regret not using the Jag rear in my truck. I know myself, and I would have wondered how much better the ride would have been if I just did it. Only reason was the gear ratio and the cost to change it. But, I'm so far off from being done with the build, I have plenty of time to figure it out. So my 46' K3, the "Harvester of Sorrow", is gonna roll on a complete Series III Jaguar XJ6 Independant Suspension. Front and Rear. I'm rubber mounting the front and rear the same way Jag did it. The rear will be left in the Jag cage so it can be rubber mounted. The look of the uncaged Jag rears are too sweet, but with the long bed, I'm going for function over form on this. It will end up looking good when it's all painted and rebuilt so who cares. It will be hidden under that long azz bed anyway. So I got it home, hosed it down, and got it out of my truck with the hoist. Mounted the wheels and just rolled it under my truck. I'm pretty happy with how it's sitting. I need to get back over to get the rubber mounts off the Jag so I can see if it's just gonna bolt right in. It sure looks like it. If anything, the angles of the notch of the frame might need to be adjusted so the rubber mounts are sitting proper. but, like the front suspension, the mounts line up right under the rails ; )
    The radius arms are another story. I have a couple build threads going on other sites but wanted to get at least this going on Hamb so I can get advice from the members who have knowledge on these setups. I'm gonna need help.

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  2. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  3. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  4. k-member
    Joined: May 25, 2002
    Posts: 2,114

    k-member
    Member

    I just pulled one yesterday out of a 78 XJ6L and was thinking the same on my 50 F-1. I am going to see how well yours goes. My Jag rear needs rotors and all that crap so I will see if it will be worth it.
     

  5. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
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    subscribed
     
  6. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,174

    73RR
    Member

    Not long back I found them at Rock Auto, cheap!

    .
     
  7. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    So many questions to sort out still. once I get the rubber mounts, today, i will slap em' in and drop the frame onto the cage and see how it fits. I need to figure out the radius arm mounts as well. The cup deal that is on the underside of the unibody that the front rubber bushing mounts on. Not sure if I will need to fab them or if they come off the Jag???
    Do I set the cage level?
    I guess Jag used a 0 degree pinion angle on the diff.
    Am I supposed to do the same? My 327 was gonna be 3-5 degrees.
    I am pretty sure also that the radius arms need to be level as well. That would make those mounts have to hang pretty far off the bottom of the frame. I have some ideas on how I would do it but it might be strange having those arms that low. I just hope they are not visible when the bed and fenders are on.
     
  8. Looks great man. I have a 48 kb1 that I want to put 04 GTO rear under. I will be watching how yours comes along
     
  9. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,019

    26 roadster
    Member

    I don't know what your ride height is going to be but it sure looks like that will be a snap to install with the cage on it!
    I have an 89 (the one that everyone says is ugly) and it will go under a fendered car as easy as a solid axle.
    I will check back on your install
     
  10. captain scarlet
    Joined: Jun 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,429

    captain scarlet
    Member
    from Detroit

    Hey there. Looks like that will be easy to fit in. Regarding the raduis arms, I would set the cage/diff (depending if you strip the cage) up where you need it to be and build a mounting on the bottom of the frame to meet the factory arm using the oringinal bushings.:)
     
  11. toddc
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 976

    toddc
    Member

    The easiest way to set up the radius arms would be to measure the position of the mounting points on the Jag now that you have the diff out. The positioning is more important tan a lot of people will tell you , check on the Jag forums about axle tramp:eek:.
    I think that the bottom plate of the diff is supposed to be level. I've got a full weight XJ6 I can check on if required. This angle is more important than pinion angle and will affect the way the car launches and stops.

    Keep your eyes open for an older Jag to get a lower ratio diff from, they are still out there cheap.:)
     
  12. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member


    Thanks. If you can check it out, it sure would be great. I got ahead of myself and dropped it before taking pics of it fully installed. Pics would help if you can post some.

    The radius arm front rubber mounts...... the nub on the frame that the rubber bushing seats on....... is it removable? or will I need to fab that part? The rear/cage seems to sit way up in the Jag so the arms when level just reach out to the bottom of the Jag frame. Obviously going to be different on my IH frame. As it sits with no weight on the front or rear of my chassis, if it gets mounted in the position shown above..... it will sit just about right. When I set up the front, I have the frame on stands at a degree or two of rake. dropping it on the Jag cage..... it's sitting just how I had it. So I think it will sit perfect. but sometimes my thinking gets me in trouble ; )
    If mounted as shown, once I level those arms they are gonna sit aweful low and look funny off the bottom of the rails. i guess they will ride the same distance off the ground as on the Jag though????
     
  13. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
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    Not to hijack but does anyone know if a Jag rear end will stand up to a stock 472 Cad engine? My son has a 47 IHC KB3 w/volare front end.
     
  14. Jagman
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 345

    Jagman
    Member

    You can buy that part that the arms fit over from one of the Jag parts houses, like XK's Unlimited...
     
  15. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    I forgot to look at them on my Jag. I stopped over real quick to grab the rubber mounts and was rushed to get to work. I needed to grab the bump stops as well and didn't have time. The Jag will still be sitting waiting for me so no big deal.
    Can I remove them from the Jag or are they just part of the frame? I would hate to buy them if they can just be removed from my parts car.
     
  16. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    It's a Dana 44 so I'm not sure why it wouldn't. It's what they use in most of the Cobra's so I would assume it would either hold up or can be made to. How about some pics of your sons KB3??? Mine is a 46' K3, same thing pretty much. How does the Volare front ride?
     
  17. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    the lower control arm should be set level. jags had different control arm mount that set the pinion angle.

    the locating arms should be parallel with the ground. to clean up the look you could make them longer and mount with heim joints in line with the lower control arm mount.

    what i did for locating arms
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74337&showall=1
     
  18. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  19. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  20. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Do the lower control arms sit level on the Jag? I tried to weight the back down with no luck. Wouldn't I want the suspension in it's static position, then level the radius arms? If I were to set them as it sits, as soon as the truck settles down to its ride height, it would change the angle of the arms.
    This might not be as easy as I thought ; )
     
  21. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
    Member

    This is all I have here on this computer. It rides, stops, & handles just fine with the Volare front end + you can adjust the torsion bars for the ride height.
     

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  22. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    yes both arms sit level on the jag


    with an irs when you put weight on it you need to roll the truck front and back so it will settle
     
  23. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member


    I'm rubber mounting the cage so I need to use the factory arms rubber mounted as well.
     
  24. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    with it mounted in line with lower control arm it can be solid cause it swings at same angle
     
  25. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    What rear does he have in there now? Truck looks nice.
     
  26. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member


    Man....... this is getting confusing. The more I research, the more confused I get. I have read too many threads on this. Most have said that if it is rubber mounted in the cage, then the stock radius arms need to be used with their rubber mounts as well. This part of my build is getting stressful!
     
  27. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
    Member

    It has a wasted Dodge 1/2 ton pickup rear end in it now. Couldn't stand up to the 472. We have the engine out of it and are re doing the motor mounts and installing air. Will be slow going as his money is tight. That's why the Jag rear end swap you are doing is of interest to us.
     
  28. toddc
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 976

    toddc
    Member

    With the cage rubber mounted you can use either type of radius arm. The long style that go to a pivot in line with the lower inner pivot will work better if setup correctly. But the stock arms in the stock location will work very well too, and be much harder to mess up.
    If you solid mount the diff, then it will need the longer style of arm.

    With the rubber mounts taken off the parts car, I would drill some holes in some bits of wood and then bolt them in place where the mounts came from. Then I would build a bracket off that to accurately locate the cones on the floor where the radius arms mount. Then you can transfer that whole assy to your truck to know exactly where the mounts need to be, regardless of ride height.

    The cones that the arms mount to on the Jag are removable, but you'll need a gas axe:D But hey, it's just a parts car so you might as well lay into it. Also, if you haven't yet popped the rubbers off the car, leave the bolt loosely in the rubber mount while you are levering the rubber off - they really fly when the taper comes apart!

    If you want to bring the ride height down you could take off 2 of the springs for a while.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2011
  29. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,730

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC


    Rather than using an old used and abused gear set I'd get a new one. They're not that bad.
     
  30. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member


    Sorry. Lost me there.
     
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