ive searched but found no answers. i layed down my first coat of rustoleum hammered to my rear frame rails. no time for the second coat. on the can( quart- i used foam brush ) it says to wait either up to 4 hours or 7 days for second coat. anyone know the reason? and if id be alright after a day or two. its about 60 deg. here in ny.
I think that the reason is within 4 hours the solvents are still active and in 7 days the solvents are cured. Somewhere in between the first coat may loosen up. A ways back I use Rustoleum to paint the inside of radio controled car Lexan bodies. The first coat of paint would loose is grip on the Lexan if the second coat was done with my schedule instead of theirs. That happened to me twice until I figured it out. I hope that you get some more info. I'm interested also. Have fun,Smokey
The solvent in the second coat can soften the first coat, frequently causing wrinkles and lifting. Under 4 hours,the first coat is still wet enough that this isn't a problem. Depending on the weather,and how thick the first coat was, you MIGHT be able to cheat a little on the 7 days limit. Common problem with Alkyd Enamels,especially if top coated with Lacquer,or Automotive clears, because the solvent is so aggressive. When in doubt,follow the instructions.
If you are spraying the Rustoleum you can thin it with laquer thinner. It greatly reduces the drying time and you can recoat it the next day. I usually reduce it 25-30 %. I have tried mineral spirits like the can says but 3 days later it was still tacky.
im actually brushing on for better coverage. ( i dont have a spray gun and didnt want cans) i dont plan on throwing on second coat this week anyway since its balls cold here in ny this week. so next week if it warms ill throw on the second. if i find out any more info ill let everyone know. thanks for the help.
Dude - this month's Hot Rod has a step-by-step guide on the roll-on Rustoleum paint job... with pics! ~Jason
Enamels (like Rustoleum) dry from the inside out. The longer you let it sit before second coating the better & harder the finish will be. Thin coats are always better than heavy.
I've tried it, and it can lift up ruining the whole thing. If it was some little bracket or trinket I'd gamble, on your frame I wouldn't.
I think you got that backwards - enamels dry form the OUTSIDE in. ( outside dries first) It's Lacquers that dry from the inside out.
im gonna have to pickup this months Hot Rod, even though its a little late. from what i remember the lowest temp they say to use the stuff is somethin like 60. in ny its been droppin down to low 50's during the day. my truck is outside, no good way to bring it inside. how much do you think it will affect my second coat in lower temps? i noticed towards the end of my last "session" i was getting those cob web lookin thingys off the brush. i assume it was because it was alittle too cold. any suggestions? thanks again everyone
Enamels cure by a combination of evaporation and polymerization. That means from the outside in. Unless it has been catalyzed,then the whole thing cures at once. Read the label for minimum temperatures on Rustoleum. If it's not there,check their web site. "Cobweb thingys" sounds like the paint in the brush was drying.
Go to your local hardware / paint store and pick up a can of "Japan dryer". A little goes a long way and will help speed up the curing process.
devin- do you think this "japan dryer" will also help in giving the paint a more "hammered" look ? i believe i read somewhere in my research that if you bake the piece it will cure quicker and give a better hammered appearance. i dont have an oven big enough to cure my frame so im kinda relyin on good ol' mother nature. and shes bein a real bitch here in ny
I don't know how it'd affect the hammered paint. I've been using it on my chassis with semi gloss black. From what I understand, Japan Dryer is a "less is more" type deal. I've heard that too much will create a brittle - cracked paint job while small amounts just help speeding things up.
Automotive paint catalyst will work. 1-Shot make a catalyst specifically for Alkyd Enamels. TSC stores have a catalyst for their flat black tractor paint. I think John Deer has Catalyst for their tractor paint. Of course,isocyanate catalysts are expensive, and have a limited shelf life. I tried Japan Drier once,didn't do anything. Check the forecast on weather.com for a warmer day. Cold will slow the drying down,but it will eventually dry.
DO NOT USE AUTO PAINT CATALYST IN RUSTOLEUM!!!! Seriously, it will not cure right and will all crinkle up. I tried it. Don't repeat my mistake. Use a hefty amount of Japan Drier, thats about it what you can do with rusteolum excpt for using acetone as a reducing solvent. I've painted ALOT of rustoleum in my day and I've found out what works and what dosent by trial and error.
Alos if you spray it on without the first coat having enough time to dry, the second coat of paint may seperate (looks like tiny cracks) as the "vapors" from the first coat try to escape... Sometimes it cracks/ seperates and sometimes is wrinkles up.
well i put on a second coat well after the 1 week waiting period. this coat i put on a little thicker than the first. i noticed the second coat has a more "hammered" look to it, im assuming because it was thicker.
I too have had some bad issues with rustoleum paint. and mostly what i dont like about it is when you finnaly got it thick enough it seems to never fully cure, so it is "soft". is there something better for a frame? other than powder coating? and it would have to seal the frame good enough not to corrode or easily rub off over time.