View Full Version : Engine: To use or not to use?
Daisyduke
02-06-2004, 01:53 PM
Hi folks
Need advice/opinions please.
Just got my engine back from being re-bored and crank being re-ground.
When i picked it up the bloke said that for the first 500 miles i should NOT use normal engine oil but a special one for running it in.
What should i use? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Heard lots of stories but not sure what i should do.
Would be very gratefull for any advice on this as i don't want to ruin engine.
Thanks
Daisy http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Roothawg
02-06-2004, 02:00 PM
What oil did he suggest? Any engine can be broke in with regular oil. I have heard that synthetics can cause havoc but I am unsure of the truth behind that as well. Racefab are you out there?
Daisyduke
02-06-2004, 02:07 PM
He said they have special oil didn't say what it was just that they could supply it. I didn't know wether he was trying to con me. But he did say that if you use ordinary engine oil it could burn it up??????? Really not sure what to use any info appreciated.
Daisyduke
Roothawg
02-06-2004, 02:10 PM
Nope he's lying.
I would suggest a straight weight oil....like a SAE 30 or 40 depending on the temp. Most sludge buildup etc comes from the multi-viscosity oils changinging from thin to thick etc. Like a 10W30 oil. As long as you prime the pump with a drill or other method you will be fine. Just get in and drive it. Wonder what they did 50 years ago without the "special breakin oil"?
porknbeaner
02-06-2004, 02:11 PM
You can still buy breakin oil. Castrol used to make the one the ol' man used.
But it isn't entirely necessary, I just use good quality oil.
Something to bear in mind, you shouldn't run your new mill too long before you change the oil, say 300-500 miles max. Cam Breakin lube is abrasive, akin to very fine valve lapping compound.
In your motor it will be really diluted by the motor oil itself, but it isn't doing anything any good.
I got a friend who's a real fanatic about that, he breaks his cam in then shuts it down and changes the oil and filter right away. Then again at 500 miles.
I'm not that extreme, and I never have any problems.
Roothawg
02-06-2004, 02:15 PM
You know....you might ask him how much he wants for the oil. This may be his way of voiding his warranty if you decline to use his "break-in oil". If he is not too expensive you might do it just to save yourself some heartburn if you ever need him to warranty it.
Satinblack
02-06-2004, 02:24 PM
I have never had any problems using a good quality oil. Sounds like a bunch of warranty bull#$%^. Root is right, ask him for the oil to save yourself some headache later
flying clutchman
02-06-2004, 04:30 PM
my engine machine teacher back in high school told us to use 30weight non-detergent motor oil. he said the regular oils have something in them(i forgot what it was) but it sometimes took out the bearings. has anyone else heard this?
dixiedog
02-06-2004, 04:35 PM
I was reviewing HAMB threads about start up oil and the one thing that kept jumping out is to NOT use synthetic oils until the motor has broken in and the rings seated.
We need to get DON WOW's opinions since he is the resident oil expert.
I am at the same point Daisy is and hopefully I will fire mine up this weekend. So this is very timely at the DOGG Pound. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Bugman
02-06-2004, 04:36 PM
What about adding a bottle of GM's EOS(engine oil suppliment). I've heard that that should be used during the break in period.
-Bugman Jeff
Roothawg
02-06-2004, 06:18 PM
bttt for Daisy.
LIMEY
02-06-2004, 06:41 PM
All sound advice, i would use good quality & stick with the same brand like Morris's, i've used it for years & you can get it locally (to us that is) They are really up to date with all the modern high spec grades & also specialise in the straight weight for older vehicles.
Don't forget one other important factor to help aid the oil to do its job, make sure the engine is coming up to correct operating temperature............ especially in this cold weather!
www.morris-lubricants.co.uk (http://www.morris-lubricants.co.uk)
A lot of old timers swear by the 30-weight non-detergent for breaking in a motor. Something about the detergent bleaching out new bearings. I had it pounded into my head so much as a kid, I still use the non-detergent for breaking a motor in. Maybe 250 to 500-miles max before changing to a regular oil.
Pist-n-Broke
02-06-2004, 06:58 PM
Over 40 years of engine building and I've alwayse used 30 wt. non detergent for brake in. On first fire up I run in the cam then Change the filter and add a qt. Then total oil and filter change at 300 mi. Again at next 400mi. From then on use what you like just keep it clean. I don't recomend Synthetic for brake in.
The Wizzard
Deyomatic
02-06-2004, 07:02 PM
If I was you, I would definately call up the guy that put it together, JUST IN CASE something happens down the road. Who knows, if this guy forgot to tighten something to spec, and something catastrophic happens, he might try to blame it all on you. The first thing he's going to ask you is what type of oil you used, then when you tell him that 15 people on the internet said it would be alright, he's going to ask what makes these 15 people on the internet experts.
Flatdog
02-06-2004, 07:25 PM
Spent an hour on the phone with tech guy from total seal rings,even sent him the rings that failed .I started motor on high quilty motor oil, mulity weight detergent oil.Nothing but the best for my baby right? WRONG!!Changed to synthic after 300 mimes and hit chassi dyno.Wiped out expenive set of ring.Use straigh weight non detergent oil to break in .I learned the hard way.
old beet
02-06-2004, 11:25 PM
The guy that builds the motor, should be the guy that starts it up. It is his motor!!!!.........OLDBEET
OldCarPilot
02-07-2004, 09:56 AM
Non detergent is always what is used in piston airplanes for new engines. Its the best way to go, but its not the only way with the car engines. The airplane engines are normally much higher compression and I don't know exactly what the non detergent does, but its required to do or the airplane is not airworthy until its gone so many hours because the manufacturer says so.
But again if its a warranty thing make sure you use what you have to.
Daisyduke
02-07-2004, 11:47 AM
Thanks guys you've all been great help. (but then i knew i could rely on you lot) http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Daisy http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
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