Stupid question, low homebuilt frame with out suicide perch?

[gettingreasy]

I just got whats left of a model A and I'm starting to plan my frame out. I will be building a 2x4 rectangle tube frame and was wondering what you guys have done to get your frames low without a drop axle or a suicide perch(I want to have frame horns and radiator infront of axle). I was thinking pie cut the frame sides and bend up then reweld. I don't like the bulkyness of a step up in front either, so am I stuck with a high frame?
-Jesse

[lakesmod]

What I did
http://photo.starblvd.net/lakesmod

[I go pogo]

I don't like the bulkyness of a step up in front either, so am I stuck with a high frame?
-Jesse

[/ QUOTE ] Yes.

[kustombuilder]

[ QUOTE ]
I don't like the bulkyness of a step up in front either, so am I stuck with a high frame?
-Jesse

[/ QUOTE ] Yes.

[/ QUOTE ]

i second that "YES"... i think a slight "Z" would be your best bet. it does'nt have to be huge and you can hide it in the cowl so the actual kickup is not noticed so much. why not go with a dropped axle??? thats a great way to get it low and keep the suspension in the stock location.

[29EHV8]

What Kustonbuilder said plus why not do a spring behind axle setup.I'm buildin one right now at my shop and I've got the frame at about a 3.5" to 4" ride height at the cowl.Should have some pics up tonight.....Shiny

[Mo Junk]

Gettingreasy, take a look at Jimmy Shines 33-34 ford truck. It has been in alot of magazines and there was a cutaway view of it in the So-Cal catalog. You should be able to locate a photo pretty easy. Anyway, if I remember correctly, he used a split wishbone setup and mounted the shackel hangers on the wishbone. The spring passes right under the stock type front crossmember. You may have to notch the frame rail for spring clearance. I don't think he used a dropped axle either. Hope this helps. Sam

[PFF]

Why dont you try a mono leaf and make a flat front cross member this with a 4" drop axle wll get the front down, but as every one else has said put the spring behined, this gets them really low

Pete

[29EHV8]

Most chassis I build I use a flat X-member.Thats whats in the cae I'm doin now.You'll see the pics tonight.Its really low and it doesn't have a dropped axle......Shiny

[kustombuilder]

oh yeah, i forgot about that. flatten out the front cross member (or build a new flat one) that'l get you a little. and you will have to notch the frame at the ends of the cross member for spring clearance.

[Mo Junk]

Go to page 6 or 7 of today's posts. A post from "Levis Classic" titled "Suicide front end brackets" has some good pictures of what I think you are looking for. Sam

[gettingreasy]

Why not a drop axle? Well I can use the money to go to better use, so I'm stuck with my 39-41 stock axle. I was thinking of doing a spring in front actually(so the radiator isn't wayyy out in front). And here is a scetch of the frames I was thinking of, the top is the piecut one....

[gettingreasy]

Maybe I will do something similar to Levi's Classic. If I do a spring behind I can just run the radiator above the axle. I still may piecut the frame just a tad for just alil' extra drop. What is a good wall thicknes for the rectangle tubing, .120", and whats a fair price to pay for a stick of it?
-Jesse

[Mo Junk]

On my modified and the 26 tub I built, I used 3/16 wall 2x3" rectangular tubing. I had the local welding shop order it and the cost was $20-25 for a 10' stick. From what info I have gathered, you want the frame rails to be able to flex a little. Hence use 3/16 instead of 1/4" wall. I was working off a set of California Custom Roadsters T bucket frame plans. That's what they recommend.Commonly welding shops stock 1/4" wall which is good for crossmembers, etc. At last years HAMB Drags there was a 30-31 Model A sedan running 389-425 Pontiac engine. He had mounted the spring just behind the axle with the hangers on the wishbones. It looked real good. Most schools of hotrod design suggest having the radiator centered or a little behind the center of the front wheels. Be carefull when putting the radiator in front of the wheels. I have seen it nicely done though. Good Luck, Sam

[Ted H]

Your question certainly isn't stupid! Irealy like your design as shown in the top scketch.As for tubing size 3/16 x 2 x 4. will work great.The finished frame will weigh only about 25# more than useing 1/8. If you haven't tapered tubing befor you'll have a lot of fun there I had intended to post a tech article on doing this but my pictures came out lousy.
Good luck and post some pics of your progress.
Ted h

[gettingreasy]

TedH, I don't think I'm going to taper the tubing, I'm just going to use 2x3 then weld on some frame horns. I'm still gonna piecut it and bend it up with a slight kickup in the rear.
-Jesse

[butch27]

The old "BIRD ENGINEERING" T- Bucket kit just used 4 inch channel for the front crossmember and tucked the spring up inside. Automatic 4 inch drop!

[lowsquire]

have a look at www.theantidote.com/one/1chass01.htm
i did a similar sweep on mine and mounted the perch pins thru the bones 3" behind the axle. The bottom of my frame rails sit less than 4" off the deck.my rear kick is 13",but i put the spring over the rear axle,going behind in the rear is prob. better.i would attach photos but im drunk.
its low enuff.